Need help picking new remote (is it time to go RF)

S

Substance-P

Audioholic
So I have our family room system setup again using a new tv stand that has doors with glass inserts. The new angle of the stand is such that I can't get my Harmony 670 to reliably control components with the doors shut. I tried an IR extender and blaster and it worked for the BlurRay player and Receiver but would not control the Comcast cable box (DCX3400).

I like the interface of the Harmony remotes; however, I am open to trying something different if it means it will reliably control the components with the doors of this media stand shut.

Does anyone have a suggestion or two of options? I am only controlling a TV, BlurRay, Receiver, and Cable box. The speaker system is a 2.0 and I don't mess with many settings in the receiver except volume. All that to say, the remote doesn't have to have too many functions just needs to be reliable and not overly frustrating to setup....and preferably not too expensive....:)
 
GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
The harmony 900 is just like the harmony one, but also has RF and the red, blue, green, and yellow buttons, but it's not cheap.
 
S

Substance-P

Audioholic
The harmony 900 is just like the harmony one, but also has RF and the red, blue, green, and yellow buttons, but it's not cheap.
I was thinking that might be my best option if I am willing to pony up the cash.

I saw a logetich refurbed 890 for $169, I guess that would be option. I would like to spend 175 or less if possible.
 
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GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
Maybe try the harmony one first since it has really good range and wide dispersion, not sure if it's much better than the one you have now though.
 
C

cpd

Full Audioholic
I have the 900 and wholeheartedly recommend it. RF works flawlessly and it's easy to set up.
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
So I have our family room system setup again using a new tv stand that has doors with glass inserts. The new angle of the stand is such that I can't get my Harmony 670 to reliably control components with the doors shut. I tried an IR extender and blaster and it worked for the BlurRay player and Receiver but would not control the Comcast cable box (DCX3400).

I like the interface of the Harmony remotes; however, I am open to trying something different if it means it will reliably control the components with the doors of this media stand shut.

Does anyone have a suggestion or two of options? I am only controlling a TV, BlurRay, Receiver, and Cable box. The speaker system is a 2.0 and I don't mess with many settings in the receiver except volume. All that to say, the remote doesn't have to have too many functions just needs to be reliable and not overly frustrating to setup....and preferably not too expensive....:)
Can you specifically describe how the issues arise?

Does your regular/OEM remote work fine on the STB? The reason I ask is because I would not be surprised, not in the least, that your STB is just a total POS and that any remote will not work well. IR receivers on those things can go crappy; anything can go crappy on those things. You might consider buying an aftermarket STB like a Tivo.

Do you have your emitter perfectly placed on the IR receiver? I know a lot of STBs have a curved display window too.

Is the main pain in the arse arise when your macro is out of sync when powering up? If this is the primary case, and you believe that your IR receiver or STB is just crap in general (and that you won't replace it), your best bet will be the URC RFS200 package for $75. You will not use the macro function/powerup in the way you use the Harmony. You will fire up the components individually; you can set the power buttons to a page for instance. This will be the most reliable, and for the least money. I've programmed multiple Harmonys and URCs.
 
S

Substance-P

Audioholic
Can you specifically describe how the issues arise?

Does your regular/OEM remote work fine on the STB? The reason I ask is because I would not be surprised, not in the least, that your STB is just a total POS and that any remote will not work well. IR receivers on those things can go crappy; anything can go crappy on those things. You might consider buying an aftermarket STB like a Tivo.

Do you have your emitter perfectly placed on the IR receiver? I know a lot of STBs have a curved display window too.

Is the main pain in the arse arise when your macro is out of sync when powering up? If this is the primary case, and you believe that your IR receiver or STB is just crap in general (and that you won't replace it), your best bet will be the URC RFS200 package for $75. You will not use the macro function/powerup in the way you use the Harmony. You will fire up the components individually; you can set the power buttons to a page for instance. This will be the most reliable, and for the least money. I've programmed multiple Harmonys and URCs.
Thanks for the feedback. My Harmony 670 and the OEM remote work with the STB. I agree that an aftermarket box like a Tivo would be better; however, I was hoping to avoid that if possible.

I tried placing the different IR blasters at different places in front of the STB; however, I couldn't get it to work.
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
Thanks for the feedback. My Harmony 670 and the OEM remote work with the STB. I agree that an aftermarket box like a Tivo would be better; however, I was hoping to avoid that if possible.

I tried placing the different IR blasters at different places in front of the STB; however, I couldn't get it to work.
You're welcome, and thanks for answering my question. Well, obviously this means that the IR receiver is working just fine, and it obviously points to the extender/blaster.

Just for the heck of it, maybe you can link the product you are using here.

If it's anything like the URC blaster I use, you should immediately go see if the emitter plugs are *all the way in* on the blaster. I had to do some troubleshooting once, until I figured out that the plug was just barely not all the way in (maybe half a millimeter). Report back.
 
S

Substance-P

Audioholic
So do you have to buy the RF extender/blaster for the 900 to function through doors/etc.
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
S

Substance-P

Audioholic
Is that pic right; you only get two emitters??

Welp, ever hear of the process of elimination? Try swapping the emitters at the base station. If the problem follows the output, then that's where the issue lies. If it follows the emitter, then maybe it's the emitter wire?
You get two small emitters and one big one along with a receiver. I have heard of the process of elimination-thanks. The research scientist in me went through identifying and isolating confounding variables during the first series of trials.

I have tried the cable company's remote with the ir system and it works flawlessly. So, I brought the Harmony One from the HT and tried it on this system and the One is a little better than the 670 (that is, it will control the cable box most of the time). Having said that, you have to hold down each command for a bit longer than when you are not using the ir extender and you have take into account that it only works about 75% of the time.

Seeing as though the cable remote works with the system and the Harmony remote works with all of the components reliably except the cable box, I think there is a bit of a Harmony/STB issue.

No I have to decide if I want to try out a URC remote to see if it cooperates a bit better with the STB.
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
You get two small emitters and one big one along with a receiver. I have heard of the process of elimination-thanks. The research scientist in me went through identifying and isolating confounding variables during the first series of trials.

I have tried the cable company's remote with the ir system and it works flawlessly. So, I brought the Harmony One from the HT and tried it on this system and the One is a little better than the 670 (that is, it will control the cable box most of the time). Having said that, you have to hold down each command for a bit longer than when you are not using the ir extender and you have take into account that it only works about 75% of the time.

Seeing as though the cable remote works with the system and the Harmony remote works with all of the components reliably except the cable box, I think there is a bit of a Harmony/STB issue.

No I have to decide if I want to try out a URC remote to see if it cooperates a bit better with the STB.
If you go to the device page of your setup (account), you'll see a troubleshooting tab. Click on that and you'll see options, like 'Device doesn't respond to any/some commands', Doesn't always respond', etc. The commands are repeated three times, in most cases and you may need to change it to 4, 2, or whatever. Devices using Toshiba IR command systems needs 1 pulse, so this will usually take care of issues like this. If the IR emitter isn't placed over the IR window properly, the commands will not work and you can see where it is by shining a flashlight on the face of the device (if it doesn't have any other indication for the location).
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
If the IR emitter isn't placed over the IR window properly, the commands will not work and you can see where it is by shining a flashlight on the face of the device (if it doesn't have any other indication for the location).
I think he is saying that he has now tested using the IR emitter with all three remotes in question, and that the order of reliability is as follows: OEM, Harmony One, Harmony 670.

(I am trying my best to distinguish exactly what's going on with all of the comparisons.) So the One works on the STB better when not using the IR extender, than with it, if I understand correctly.

Can you try programming the Harmony(s) by using the learn function, where you fire the OEM remote at the Harmony (they can do this, right?). I know with a URC, I can do this for all of a device's function in less than 5 minutes, no problemo. Well, it's a possible idea to explore.
 
S

Substance-P

Audioholic
I think he is saying that he has now tested using the IR emitter with all three remotes in question, and that the order of reliability is as follows: OEM, Harmony One, Harmony 670.

(I am trying my best to distinguish exactly what's going on with all of the comparisons.) So the One works on the STB better when not using the IR extender, than with it, if I understand correctly.

Can you try programming the Harmony(s) by using the learn function, where you fire the OEM remote at the Harmony (they can do this, right?). I know with a URC, I can do this for all of a device's function in less than 5 minutes, no problemo. Well, it's a possible idea to explore.
You are correct-order of reliability when using emitter is: OEM, One, 670. When not using the emitter (and media stand doors open) all work fine. Both Harmony remotes work well with the BlurRay and the Receiver with the emitter.

I tried the tip of trouble shooting and adjusting the number of times the commands are repeated. I tried all combinations from 1 to 5 and 2 seemed to be the best but still left both Harmony remotes less reliable than the OEM.

I tried to find a URC RFS200 today; however, local retailer was sold out. The only other non Harmony option was an AR XSight Touch but that, plus RF extender, was going to be $225.

I think my next option is to try to order an RFS200 and see how it works.

I would love to make the transition from Comcast to Tivo and have a whole different (and better STB) to deal with; however, I explored the costs and it is a bit much to make the transition.

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.
 
S

Substance-P

Audioholic
Update-good news/bad news. The good news is that the URC RFS200 arrived today and...after assigning every button individually from each of my remotes to the URC, and setting up the RF extender, the remote works with each of the components (most importantly the cable box).

The bad news...I haven't had time to setup one push macros for turning on/off everything and setting things up so that the URC is using the cable controls for channel and the receiver for sound. Hopefully, these won't be too complicated.
 
M

MDS

Audioholic Spartan
The bad news...I haven't had time to setup one push macros for turning on/off everything and setting things up so that the URC is using the cable controls for channel and the receiver for sound. Hopefully, these won't be too complicated.
Now that you have each individual command stored whered you want it, it will take less than five minutes to set up power on/off macros and
punch through' so that the receiver always controls the volume.

The advantage of programming the remote directly and not requiring a computer is you can do it while sitting in front of your equipment.
 
S

Substance-P

Audioholic
Now that you have each individual command stored whered you want it, it will take less than five minutes to set up power on/off macros and
punch through' so that the receiver always controls the volume.

The advantage of programming the remote directly and not requiring a computer is you can do it while sitting in front of your equipment.
I am going to try to set them up tonight. I tried a little bit yesterday but I was tapped out after individually assigning every button from my three other remotes and the instructional DVD was not really what I want to pay attention to at the end of a long day...

Hopefully I can get those assigned tonight and be back to enjoying the family room setup.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

EDIT:
I got the punch through option setup for audio and a basic on/off macro to turn on the TV and Receiver (the cable box remains on). How do I set up a macro for DVD (wherein it turns the DVD player on, changes the TV Input, and sets up the DVD remote as the primary method for controlling things)?
 
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