Help me choose a Middle Atlantic rack

[jostenmeat]

I'm seriously lost on the choices. I ran a title search on "rack", and scanned all 53 thread hits. I also ran a search on Middle Atlantic on a certain user or two. I can't afford one right now, but I will likely need one in the near future. My brother is planning on giving me his old Xbox, and I'd like to add a CMS device in the future (hey, it's cheaper than a PJ upgrade).

I believe that Sensi is using the WRK-24-32. I would like less depth, and I think 27" might be the other depth standard that MA offers. I don't understand how these units work really (though I've looked at one before), but I don't think I need the depth as I highly doubt I'll ever add internet capability to my system. He was saying something about using the rear rails. Dunno what that exactly means, or maybe I misread or misremembered. Well, I think the greater depth would be unsightly in my rig, and maybe it might save me a few bucks too.

I see someone else here is using this, but I don't think that's what I want (but I might be convinced if it was really much, much cheaper).
http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/knock/rkbrk.htm

Here is the MA website, with all of the various designs:
http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/main.htm

I am currently using a Studio Tech modular rack, and while it's been great for me so far, I think I need something bigger. The biggest gripe I have about the ST is that to add any shelving, you have to remove everything*, in order to flip the rack upside down to unscrew, etc.

I'm pretty sure I will need something at least 4' tall, and while these are "gangable", in my experiences I find that buying it all as one gets the most value. (Add-ons are typically overpriced.) The above said, should I assume it would be cheaper to get the whole kit 'n kaboodle, rather than add the sides, etc?

I have a processor, mch amp, commercial amp, 3 sources, power center. It will soon be 4 sources, and another extra 1 to 2 devices in the next 1 or 2 years. Your thoughts? Any specific recommendation of model and or place to buy would be appreciated. I do have a connection/friend with whom I might be able to land a great deal, but I am not counting on that for sure. Thanks again.

 

[highfigh]

I'm seriously lost on the choices. I ran a title search on "rack", and scanned all 53 thread hits. I also ran a search on Middle Atlantic on a certain user or two. I can't afford one right now, but I will likely need one in the near future. My brother is planning on giving me his old Xbox, and I'd like to add a CMS device in the future (hey, it's cheaper than a PJ upgrade).

I believe that Sensi is using the WRK-24-32. I would like less depth, and I think 27" might be the other depth standard that MA offers. I don't understand how these units work really (though I've looked at one before), but I don't think I need the depth as I highly doubt I'll ever add internet capability to my system. He was saying something about using the rear rails. Dunno what that exactly means, or maybe I misread or misremembered. Well, I think the greater depth would be unsightly in my rig, and maybe it might save me a few bucks too.

I see someone else here is using this, but I don't think that's what I want (but I might be convinced if it was really much, much cheaper).
http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/knock/rkbrk.htm

Here is the MA website, with all of the various designs:
http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/main.htm

I am currently using a Studio Tech modular rack, and while it's been great for me so far, I think I need something bigger. The biggest gripe I have about the ST is that to add any shelving, you have to remove everything*, in order to flip the rack upside down to unscrew, etc.

I'm pretty sure I will need something at least 4' tall, and while these are "gangable", in my experiences I find that buying it all as one gets the most value. (Add-ons are typically overpriced.) The above said, should I assume it would be cheaper to get the whole kit 'n kaboodle, rather than add the sides, etc?

I have a processor, mch amp, commercial amp, 3 sources, power center. It will soon be 4 sources, and another extra 1 to 2 devices in the next 1 or 2 years. Your thoughts? Any specific recommendation of model and or place to buy would be appreciated. I do have a connection/friend with whom I might be able to land a great deal, but I am not counting on that for sure. Thanks again.

Measure the height of each piece of equipment and divide by 1.75 (one rack is 1.75") and round up to the next number of spaces. That will let you know how many spaces you need.

FatCat (may have two Ts), Atlas and Omni are three other brands of racks that use EIA 19" spacing, so you don't need to limit yourself to one brand. As far as the shelves, I would steer clear of the Dayton ones because the dimensions aren't as accurate as they should be and the corners aren't bent as crisply.

 

[MidnightSensi2]

I find having the deep racks as being an advantage because a lot of things you don't need access to in the front and it offers that expandability. If you don't have the depth for it, then that is one thing, but I've seen a lot of people buy the standard depth racks, outgrow them, and have to either buy taller ones, another one, or the same but deeper if they didn't have the height. Like, my network switch and RTI controller are back there now, but really I could move a lot more if I needed to.

If you do a standalone rack, make sure to get the thick wheels (I think they call them 'fine floor') as it really helps rolling them around over stuff or even just to vacuum (I just roll mine to the side and vacuum when I clean up my home theater).

And do /not/ get that AX-SX one. Those suck, you have to bring the rails down, it's a huge pain to work on. If you do built in, just get a wheeled one and make the cabinet so that it fits it. Plus, if you move, then your rack can just roll out and go with you.

B&H has a nice search feature (and is a good vendor too if your friend doesn't come through):
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=1765&N=4289286808+4291338448

Go big enough so you don't run out of space. I just have a short one for my home theater, which is plenty, but generally for whole house systems I just tell people to get the 8-ft ones since they end up with Crestrons and lighting systems and phone systems and whatever else eventually. It's not really that much more money to get a bigger one, so, it's more about just what size you need and what gives you some growing room.

 

[jostenmeat]

Measure the height of each piece of equipment and divide by 1.75 (one rack is 1.75") and round up to the next number of spaces. That will let you know how many spaces you need.

FatCat (may have two Ts), Atlas and Omni are three other brands of racks that use EIA 19" spacing, so you don't need to limit yourself to one brand. As far as the shelves, I would steer clear of the Dayton ones because the dimensions aren't as accurate as they should be and the corners aren't bent as crisply.

The reasoning behind that math really escapes me. I will do it, and see what I come out with, but huh. Let's pretend my components measure a total of 30". Dividing 30 by 1.75 = 17.14. I round up to 18. What the heck does the number 18 mean to me?

Or even each piece individually, let's say one component is 8" tall. Now I get 4.57, or round up to 5. What does "5" mean to me? Thanks.

You must mean add* 1.75" to each measured component?

Thanks for the other recs outside of MA. If it was you, which would you go for? Thanks for the Dayton warning too.

I find having the deep racks as being an advantage because a lot of things you don't need access to in the front and it offers that expandability. If you don't have the depth for it, then that is one thing, but I've seen a lot of people buy the standard depth racks, outgrow them, and have to either buy taller ones, another one, or the same but deeper if they didn't have the height. Like, my network switch and RTI controller are back there now, but really I could move a lot more if I needed to.

If you do a standalone rack, make sure to get the thick wheels (I think they call them 'fine floor') as it really helps rolling them around over stuff or even just to vacuum (I just roll mine to the side and vacuum when I clean up my home theater).

And do /not/ get that AX-SX one. Those suck, you have to bring the rails down, it's a huge pain to work on. If you do built in, just get a wheeled one and make the cabinet so that it fits it. Plus, if you move, then your rack can just roll out and go with you.

B&H has a nice search feature (and is a good vendor too if your friend doesn't come through):
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=1765&N=4289286808+4291338448

Go big enough so you don't run out of space. I just have a short one for my home theater, which is plenty, but generally for whole house systems I just tell people to get the 8-ft ones since they end up with Crestrons and lighting systems and phone systems and whatever else eventually. It's not really that much more money to get a bigger one, so, it's more about just what size you need and what gives you some growing room.

Thanks MS, I'm glad you caught this thread. I don't think I'll ever get into phone stuff, htpc, or any high level automation. My URC blaster is pretty darn small. I don't stream anything, ever. 99% of source playback is from optical discs.

I will go bigger than I need atm, but perhaps I don't have to as these should be easily gangable (or maybe only the expensive ones are). If I have to take everything out to flip the rack over in order to add to it, I will scream.

Soon, I will measure each component, and even a couple of measurements for possible future components, and then demand you guys choose one for me.

My friend is not very reliable. I'm also pretty sure he is not familiar with the selection of racks. What I was intending was to finally settle on a certain model, and then see what he could do. I remember he got me to delay the purchase of my ceiling speaker mounts, saying he'd give me his discount, but he never got around to it. I finally* told him I'm ordering thru Amazon, and then he soon stopped by and just gave me the mounts. We will see.

 

[MidnightSensi2]

On Wednesday I'll be leaving on a business trip till the following weeks end, so, if I don't respond quickly its not because I don't care! I'll for sure check back when you've done your measuring.

Also, they have some software that is pretty helpful on their website. A Visio based one I believe and now a standalone.

 

[jostenmeat]

Ok, well, I just did it quick style.

The three sources will be listed first, but these particularly are the most approximate. If they are off, the odds are that the real height will be shorter, because they have added vinyl feet for more airspace. I know you've taught me that extra space doesn't always help ventilation, but we'll leave that alone atm. Ok...

2" ota tuner
2" bdp
2 1/2" hddvd
4" power center

3 1/2" Crown
7 5/8" Onkyo
7 5/8" NAD

Oh almost forgot, the URC blaster, lemme go google. Ok, it is very small.
5.125" x 3.5" x 1.25" (4.5" with antenna up). I could probably hide this behind the OTA or BDP, as they are 9" and 9.5" deep, respectively, even with a rack that is less deep than yours. My current rack is between my sub and bookshelf holding all my movie titles (and some remotes, etc). It would be nice to have it a bit more flush (although not truly possible), than sticking way out. Dunno.

Future item to come in the next couple of months (not sure which model it is that my brother is giving to me, so I hope I pulled the right height off the internet):

3 1/4" XBOX360

Somewhat of a possibility later on:
2.2" or shorter (whether 1.8" or 1.125") CMS for video


The only rack mountable item I have now is the Crown. I can swap power centers from my other system (where the other is rack mountable), as long as it has enough outlets for me still. One of the CMS I desire is rack mountable (roughly 2"), and the other isn't but it super tiny (4.25" x 1.125” x 3.375”).

That's all that comes to mind right now. Thanks! I'll check in later, and if you can't give input before your trip, I understand, and have a good trip btw. Where this time? Asia? Europe?

 

[adk highlander]

Hey Josten,

I've been picking up parts for several months to turn my in wall rack into a MA inwall rack. I see you have mentioned the WRK rack like MidnightSensi's which will be the heaviest duty free standing unit. The other model to look at is the Slim 5. Much less expensive and compatible with all the custom shelve/faceplate they sell.

If you are trying to figure out how many U a component is I use this page for the custom faceplate designer: http://www2.middleatlantic.com/RSH/mainRSH.asp

The real bite are the custom shelves. At over $100 bucks each they really add up quick. I have the rack kit for my Onkyo, one sat receiver and my amps have mounting faces but cannot support the weight so I still need shelves under them. You should check the components that have rack faces and make sure they are not just cosmetic like my ATI amps.

I'm hoping to start my install in the next few weeks. I have a custom fan system I will put in at the same time to get the chimney effect Sensi posted about a while back. I know where some of these rack parts can be had on ebay for quite a bit less money PM me if you want some links. The shelves are more a hit and miss of what dealers have left over.

Have you ever posted pics of your setup? I've looked but cannot seem to find any.

 

[jostenmeat]

Thanks a lot adk. The Slim 5 is very appealing because of the seemingly affordable pricing. I have no idea what the U rating is for. I haven't posted a members thread, and pretty much have never posted a pic of my equipment rack before.

My HT is a disaster zone right now, haha. In the middle of building screen and false wall on site.

My brother has got cold feet about giving me his gaming console. So, I may not need a bigger rack after all perhaps.

I see some hits at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=electronics&field-keywords=middle+atlantic+slim+5&x=0&y=0

Not knowing what he U rating is for, I find it interesting in the above link that you can get higher U ratings, but with less depth. Ok googling says it may be a rating of heat transfer, so that is neat that a narrower rack can have a better rating, assuming higher U is better.

I did one example search at your link, and while I found my first go at it, the Panasonic DMPBD60, I couldn't find a more specific price or link.

If the costs get to be exorbitant, perhaps I'll just a couple/few more shelves, and redo the whole rack. My guess is less than $200 (instead of a grand)? Hmm.

 

[BMXTRIX]

I have a SLIM 5 rack which I have had for a number of years and it is completely full. I also have a smaller rack hidden which has some other gear in it. In my family room I took a rack from Racks & Stands.com and put a set of rack rails into it so that it has rackrail, but is still a 'piece of furniture' which matches the room.

When it comes to equipment racks, everything is measured in rack units. 1 unit = 1.75" so when you see a rack which is 12U it should read 12RU and it means that it has space enough for 12 rack units of gear.

So, how the HECK do you figure it all out with your specific gear and since it is such a pain, why would anyone go to this solution?

http://www.racktools.com/

Ah-ha! Middle Atlantic has a program you can load on your computer that has a complete database of all of their different products and racks. It includes MSRP pricing as well as all the options. You can drag and drop the different stuff in as you would like and lay out your rack as is best for your setup.

At the end of the day, if this is in a highly visible location, out in the open, I would recommend that you go to www.racksandstands.com and find a wood rack which you like which is plenty large enough.

http://www.racksandstands.com/Set-of-AR-2.5GK-and-AR-43-X-WT0356.html

Then put in rack rail. Rack rail is literally the stuff that holds the rack shelves and you bolt them 19.25" away from each other and you have something to mount the shelves to in any piece of furniture or rough opening.

In a basement, for example, if you faced a rack into a room and put studs 19.25" apart from each other, and had REAR ACCESS to the rack, you could just mount rack rail between the two studs and start mounting your gear.

As said, the real cost of the rack is not the rack, but the shelves which are about $120 a pop. I recommend the brushed aluminum ones which look amazing, but they have a textured steel as well.

Rack Tools is your starting point for design, and your own creativity and imagination is the end of it. I ended up encasing my rack (SLIM5-37) with my walls and have rear access through a back room to it. It is located under my stairs in my basement. The final result is very nice from the front... though I need to do a lot of work behind it!

You can PM me when you get closer if you want on pricing.

 

[majorloser]

As said, the real cost of the rack is not the rack, but the shelves which are about $120 a pop.

And let's not forget all the other "must have" accessories...

cable management/wire looms, blank panels (between components), vent panels (top and bottom), side panels, power strips, cooling fans, sliding shelves, ventilated shelves, drawers, rear component supports, rack screws, special nuts, rack lighting.......

Buying the rack is the easy part. Picking out all the rack BLING is the fun part.

Bust out the wallet. This is gonna hurt.

 

[BMXTRIX]

And let's not forget all the other "must have" accessories...

cable management/wire looms, blank panels (between components), vent panels (top and bottom), side panels, power strips, cooling fans, sliding shelves, ventilated shelves, drawers, rear component supports, rack screws, special nuts, rack lighting.......

Buying the rack is the easy part. Picking out all the rack BLING is the fun part.

Bust out the wallet. This is gonna hurt.

I generally recommend the VTF1 vented blank panels and then to see if extra ventilation is needed.

On the other hand, a 4 space drawer (DVD/BD sized) I consider critical, and those are like $150 or something.

I've got to take some new pictures of my rack setup as soon as I'm done cleaning the junk up in my newly finished basement.

 

[majorloser]

Don't forget the rack lights.

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=01&id=RL-LED

http://www.pssl.com/!tFMovci6HIQNhy5HiovTaw!/Furman-RL-LED-19In-Led-Rack-Light

 

[adk highlander]

Uggh I'm sorry I did not come across very clear. Thanks BMX for giving the pic and explaining what I did not as far as U size of the components.

I am actually using just the rails like BMX said and mounting them to the stud walls on my in wall rack.

So now building in process pics of the false wall!? Common you know we need pics!

 

[jostenmeat]

Soon, I will measure each component, and even a couple of measurements for possible future components, and then demand you guys choose one for me.

Except for majorloser! I don't want to be hurt!

Ok, I think I am liking the Slim 5-37-26. I guess I would go with the brushed silver going by what BMX says, even if more light reflective, but heck most of the back wall is. I am thinking that the thinner 5-37-CONFIG might not be so future-proof? I admit that having it more flush with the other stuff could be nice.

Other than that, holy guacamole, what's up with the billion options?!? Trim panels, rear rails, casters n bases, chase kits, side panels, doors, access pans, runner kits, power kits, fan kits, finishes, oh my gosh . . .

And what's more confusing is that a certain option might require that another option is chosen, etc.

I still can't figure out how to "just add products" to the configuration software (thx BMX). I mean I type it out, and it just doesn't show up for some reason.

I am scared of the final pricing! Methinks maybe just starting with the bare bones, open chassis, with enough racks. Hm, ok fine, maybe those $120 faceplates too for let's how many units . . . at least 6?

Hm, I'm thinking I should should just stick to my cheaper ways, and keep adding to the ST. I bought two, but all in black, and split them disproportionately by making one shorter for the LR, and the other taller for the HT. I just hate that I have to remove EVERYTHING to add shelving. I never installed the bottom feet for best reliability and sliding over carpet.

I admit it would be a lot of fun to build a MA rack in silver, bling it out, but I don't think I have to have this . . . yet anyways . . . . and it would be so much to do it right . . .

 

[BMXTRIX]

Rear rack rail: This is used for wire management typically. You can get lacing bars, which look like these versions...

Then you put them on the rear rack rail and then you use zip-ties to handle your wire management...

With a simpler setup you don't need much wire management, but it can be useful to control power wires, etc.

Furman, and others make inexpensive rack mount power strips which do a good job.

Building a proper rack is truly a labor of love for yourself because it is time intensive. I've (literally) had about $20,000 in side work last year just rebuilding some high end equipment racks which were very poorly designed and assembled. Hundreds of wires removed, then reinstalled, with proper rack faces and proper wire management.

It is worth noting that if you want to do it in phases, you can get some really good pricing on shelves on eBay.

It's also worth noting that that 'rack unit' (1RU) is a standard in the industry not limited to Middle Atlantic, but followed by all manufacturers. Raxxess (http://www.raxxess.com/), for example. Big computer server rooms often use something other than Middle Atlantic, but they still have racks based upon the RU standard.

Here's a good site for more 'finished' look type of stuff...
http://www.mrpodium.com/rack.php

The biggest problem I have with my Slim 5 is that the cabling all needs to come to the back because it isn't wide enough to allow for cabling to really run down the sides. This is a big difference with wider racks. You get the ability to put cabling, wall warts, power strips, and more down the side of the rack which really helps to clean up the appearance of the back of the rack.