Need help with the box on a JL Audio 12w7-3

annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I think I'm a bit happier with this layout. Not quite finished though.



Red is where I intend to add small windows to tie into the bracing. I think once those are added that should be good yes?
Yes that looks very good. You could also do the same across the top & bottom between the middle braces. However, that would not be necessary. So long as your construction techniques are solid this will be a very solid enclosure.
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
agreed, that looks very nice....

Good luck with the build, that thing is going to have some great output and really nice SQ...


I really love my JL F112, amongst the best I've heard in terms of SQ....
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
agreed, that looks very nice....

Good luck with the build, that thing is going to have some great output and really nice SQ...


I really love my JL F112, amongst the best I've heard in terms of SQ....
I would agree, especially since I have the DIY version :)
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Yes that looks very good. You could also do the same across the top & bottom between the middle braces. However, that would not be necessary. So long as your construction techniques are solid this will be a very solid enclosure.
It looks to me like he's got a near slot port in that design with all the bracing.
Solid indeed.
 
N

Nugu

Audioholic
Got my sub in the mail today, my word that thing is heavy. I'm going to break my spine lifting this when it's built. When I get a hold of a multimeter to test the sub and ensure it's in good shape I'll go get the mdf so I can start the box... eventually. I still have to get that porch I committed myself to building done.


I had a question annunaki, do I need to put that damping material (owens corning) behind the driver or anywhere else? I also wanted to ask about how you modeled the PRs as I can't find anything like them in WinISD.

I'm gonna add up the volume for the bracing when I haven't been awake 36 hours and finalize the box width then.

 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Got my sub in the mail today, my word that thing is heavy. I'm going to break my spine lifting this when it's built. When I get a hold of a multimeter to test the sub and ensure it's in good shape I'll go get the mdf so I can start the box... eventually. I still have to get that porch I committed myself to building done.


I had a question annunaki, do I need to put that damping material (owens corning) behind the driver or anywhere else? I also wanted to ask about how you modeled the PRs as I can't find anything like them in WinISD.

I'm gonna add up the volume for the bracing when I haven't been awake 36 hours and finalize the box width then.

Use of material in the enclosure is not a requirement in this case. It does help to tame internal reflections and such, especially if a higher x-over point is needed.

I got the parameters for the PRs from the AE Speakers website here:
PR18-2100
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I had a question annunaki, do I need to put that damping material (owens corning) behind the driver or anywhere else?

For a design this good I'd certainly add it to the rear panel. You are putting a lot of work in and deserve to get the best you can out of the sub. There is no need to use OC as mineral wool will just fine.

http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Roxul-Rockboard-60--RB60-S.html

One of these would do the trick. Make sure to wrap it in something like a pillow case or burlap.
 

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