Cab construction

[coloradoxc]

I want to build a sub cab that is larger than 27 in, which is the maximum clearance of the doorway to my basement. What can I use to build the cab so that I can assemble and disassemble it when necessary? Would it be fine to just use some thick wood screws? Are there any other methods anyone could tell me. From what i've read all cabs are temporarily held together with nails or screws until an adhesive used sets. If screws are only used will that result in vibrations or some side effect? Thanks.

 

[TLS Guy]

I want to build a sub cab that is larger than 27 in, which is the maximum clearance of the doorway to my basement. What can I use to build the cab so that I can assemble and disassemble it when necessary? Would it be fine to just use some thick wood screws? Are there any other methods anyone could tell me. From what i've read all cabs are temporarily held together with nails or screws until an adhesive used sets. If screws are only used will that result in vibrations or some side effect? Thanks.

The answer is Yes. Panels must be glued, so come up with a different plan.

 

[GO-NAD!]

Can't you just change the dimensions of the enclosure, while maintaining the same volume? A subwoofer doesn't care how it's shaped. You could make it a bit narrower to fit through the door and make it taller and/or deeper to compensate.

And yes, it should be glued. You'd need an awful lot of wood screws to even come close to the strength of a proper glued joint. Especially if it's MDF, which doesn't have a lot of strength in a screwed joint. Plus, the glue acts as a sealant for the seam, so the enclosure doesn't leak air.

 

[Serj22]

I always had to deal with questions like this to fit larger subwoofers into smaller cars, and the answer was - Angles. Don't make the box square, or rectangular, unless the space permits. Coupes always had an issue of having plenty of trunk space, but never were able to get it through the trunk opening without removing the trunk. So you can fit a larger sub on a longer plane, and then build the rest of the box as normal.

Or temporarily drill a large 4 ft wide hole in the floor of your kitchen and then have it lowered down VIA crane, oh- you will need to drill a hole in the roof for that. Easy fix.

 

[soniceuphoria]

If you are dead set on the dimensions of the box that you want, and it is to big to fit through the door, then just build it in the room. Then you don't have to worry about fitting it through the door. And if you ever move, you can either disassemble the box, or build a new one. I know the feeling, because I am planning on building a 21" powered sub that requires a 12 cubic foot ported enclosure
-Greg

 

[coloradoxc]

The dimensions matter completely for the cab since I am building a folded horn subwoofer. The width is the only dimension that I can change without messing up the design. (I did not write up the design, I am following Bill Fitzmaurice's THT plans) I was wondering if I could use T-nuts and bolts to hold the cab together. I most likely will not using shotty fiberboard or plywood, but solid wood. Yes, I know this will be heavy. To seal the cab I would use the standard method, caulk. Now, I would have an airtight cab that is held together firmly. I don't see how this wouldn't work since T-nuts are used to hold the driver onto the enclosure.

 

[soniceuphoria]

You don't want to use hardwood for a speaker enclosure. It can create resonance issues. It is used in the construction of violins and other instruments for this very reason, and while it is a good thing in these applications it can be very detrimental in a speaker enclosure. That is why they use MDF for enclosures because of its practically inert nature. I would suggest that you just perform the final assembly in the listening room, or go with a different design all together.
-Greg

 

[coloradoxc]

Wow, I honestly did not know that hardwood would create resonance issues. Yea I might just keep the width within 27 in or build it in the basement. Thanks for the help.