Subwoofer nearly exploding.

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yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
so i just watched fight club, this movie has some extreme LFE, i nearly thought my subwoofer's woofer would blow right out the front directly into my face several times, many times it got so extreme i could literally hear WUWUMPWUWUMP, mechanical noises from the sub. what can i do to fix this problem? would a second sub help handle the LFE and atleast reduce the problem? i've watched several movies with lots of LFE and this is a first. i like explosions, but not when they are so realistic i have equipment nearly exploding.:eek:
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
so i just watched fight club, this movie has some extreme LFE, i nearly thought my subwoofer's woofer would blow right out the front directly into my face several times, many times it got so extreme i could literally hear WUWUMPWUWUMP, mechanical noises from the sub. what can i do to fix this problem? would a second sub help handle the LFE and atleast reduce the problem? i've watched several movies with lots of LFE and this is a first. i like explosions, but not when they are so realistic i have equipment nearly exploding.:eek:
That subwoofer's amp is 50W continuous and really isn't enough to do what you want. If the woofer itself was incredibly sensitive, it could, maybe. Another issue is that the lowest -3dB point, which the specs show to be 40Hz, is above much of what a lot of good speakers can do on their own. A subwoofer that goes closer to 20Hz will do a much better job of handling the deepest impulses, like explosions. When the audio has strong signal below the tuning frequency of the port(s), the box has very little control over the woofer and that used to be called 'doubling'. The woofer hits on the note or impulse and it's almost like dribbling a basketball. Unfortunately, it's hard to listen to all of what a subwoofer will need to handle when auditioning. If you own what you were watching, it would be a good test next time.

To answer your question about adding a second sub, maybe. If it was a borderline situation when this happened, it might be enough to keep it from going over the edge but honestly, I think I would look for something that can handle it on its own, with a more powerful amp. Bass frequencies require a lot more power, even though it's a small part of the frequency band.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
so i just watched fight club, this movie has some extreme LFE, i nearly thought my subwoofer's woofer would blow right out the front directly into my face several times, many times it got so extreme i could literally hear WUWUMPWUWUMP, mechanical noises from the sub. what can i do to fix this problem? would a second sub help handle the LFE and atleast reduce the problem? i've watched several movies with lots of LFE and this is a first. i like explosions, but not when they are so realistic i have equipment nearly exploding.:eek:
Turn it down. If you are hearing those kind of noises, you won't have that sub very long.

Adding another miserable sub will not help. That will give you twice the misery. Build a decent one. With a good LF system you should have to worry about the building integrity not the speaker. Its my room I always have to be concerned about.
 
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yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
hahaha nvm i figured out it wasnt my sub making the noise, but actually my closet door rattling.
 
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yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
yes i know i do, this sub works good for what i need right now, actually as we speak im coming up with a plan to design one, hell i got this thing for 100 shipped, i can't complain.
 
just-some-guy

just-some-guy

Audioholic Field Marshall
hahaha nvm i figured out it wasnt my sub making the noise, but actually my closet door rattling.
lol... i have been having an issue with a noise happening up behind me. doesn't happen all the time. so i started looking around. i found my chair sub, dayton sub120 was making a blown speaker type noise. so i'm like wtf :(. so i keep looking/listening. the next bass passage = no noises. so now i am even more like wth :mad::confused:

hell i got this thing for 100 shipped, i can't complain.
sounds like a chair sub.
 
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yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
it was 100 because it is a discontinued model from polk and newegg is practically giving them away, i got a pair of 350 dollar speakers from them for 120 from the same company. its a decent sub, strong enough to fill a large room with useful bass, but below 30hz its useless. i've done a few sine wave tests and below 30hz, all it does is chuff.
 
M

MatthewB.

Audioholic General
it was 100 because it is a discontinued model from polk and newegg is practically giving them away, i got a pair of 350 dollar speakers from them for 120 from the same company. its a decent sub, strong enough to fill a large room with useful bass, but below 30hz its useless. i've done a few sine wave tests and below 30hz, all it does is chuff.
Any sub that can't be used below 30Hz I consider a mid bass module and shouldnt be used as a sub at all. I would use it as a MBM and hook it up to an individual speaker(s) and have those speakers crossed at 40hz to a real sub. Otherwise all your doing is hindering the sound and ruining the sound your trying to get.

I have two MBM subs (Deftech Prosub 800 and Prosub 1000) used strictly as MBM (PS1000 crossed at 40Hz, PS800 crossed at 50Hz) to my SVS PB12 NSD/2 I get the best of both worlds, the MBM (because they drop like a rock at 35Hz) and my SVS which only handles the low end. I can easily play bass heavy movies at 110db with no hint of distortion and the bass is tight and clean, because the MBM's are not being exerted to try and play anything below 40hz.

I am always amazed by people who buy mediocre subs (like Polks sorry) and try to use them as full bass subs, when all they are doing is over exerting the subs and introducing extreme distortion to the room.

Buy or build a real sub that has been tested to handle frequencies below 20Hz with ease.
 
Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
i actually have all the parts ready to buy for a sub good down to 17 hz :D
 
Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
actually, i am considering one of the dayton subs, what do you think of those? oh and polks new line of subs are alot better and go much deeper then their older series.
 
just-some-guy

just-some-guy

Audioholic Field Marshall
my sub120 was way worse today. its putting out a vibraity sound with a lot less output. though it does output. i'm thinkin the driver is toast. and it was set at 1/4 output or less, sheeeesh. i wonder if i could put one of my kappas in there to test the amp.
 
GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
my sub120 was way worse today. its putting out a vibraity sound with a lot less output. though it does output. i'm thinkin the driver is toast. and it was set at 1/4 output or less, sheeeesh. i wonder if i could put one of my kappas in there to test the amp.
I have a sub-120 driver sitting around unused, if yours is blown, I'd be happy to sell you mine, it's in great condition and doesn't have that much use on it. And yes, you could put another driver in there to test the amp out.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
I cautioned you about that sub when you wrote your review of it. It is OK for midbass, but it has no subsonic filter so throwing really low stuff at it isn't good. As I said, it is OK for music (unless it has a lot of low stuff), but with movies you need to watch the volume.
 
Whitey80

Whitey80

Senior Audioholic
actually, i am considering one of the dayton subs, what do you think of those? oh and polks new line of subs are alot better and go much deeper then their older series.
I use the big Dayton and have been excedingly happy with it.
 
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yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
I cautioned you about that sub when you wrote your review of it. It is OK for midbass, but it has no subsonic filter so throwing really low stuff at it isn't good. As I said, it is OK for music (unless it has a lot of low stuff), but with movies you need to watch the volume.
are you saying a sub should have a subsonic filter?
 
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yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
are you saying a sub should have a subsonic filter?
i actually found an FMOD 20hz highpass, that would keep low low stuff out of the sub, it is an active inline x-over. good idea? bad idea?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Yes it would probably benefit this sub. 20Hz would likely be OK since it probably can't get down that low to begin with.

My sub is tuned to 17Hz and I have a 14Hz subsonic filter (since that is the lowest I can set on my sub amp).
 
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yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
it actually has an incredibly steep rolloff beginning at 30hz, it honestly will not play any audible sound below 30hz even with the volume to the max. tell me though would it mess up music in any way at all? i know music has harmonics all they way down to four hz, and even if the sub won't audibly play that, it affects the shape of the waveform nonetheless.
 
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