JL 10W3 for home theatre?

[highrez]

I'm putting together the sound system from my home theatre. I've ordered got an Onkyo TX-NR807 and Behringer 2030P speakers all around.

Now I'm about out of money. I'd like to reuse a JL 10W3V2 I have in a ported box.

The speaker sounded great in my car (had a JL250/1 powering it). Would it be appropriate for use in a home theatre?

If it does work would installing an AMP like the Parts Express SA240 adversely affect performance?

Thanks!
Gus

 

[GlocksRock]

Yes, you can use it, just get a properly designed box and a decent amp and you will be fine.

 

[highrez]

Yes, you can use it, just get a properly designed box and a decent amp and you will be fine.

Would the box I have now (assuming its properly designed for an external AMP) be ok, or do I need to get another box designed specifically to have the builtin/setin amp?

 

[GlocksRock]

You would likely want a new ported box built that is tuned lower, it doesn't have to be designed to have the plate amp mouned flush, although it would look better.

 

[highrez]

You would likely want a new ported box built that is tuned lower, it doesn't have to be designed to have the plate amp mouned flush, although it would look better.

But flush mounting the plate amp to my current box is out of the question, correct? E.g. it would have an adverse affect on the audio characteristics?

Would this be a reasonable sounding system?

E.g. would this be an upgrade from say a Dayton SUB-120? Using my current sub/box with a new plate amp would be similar in cost to purchasing a Dayton SUB-120. My expectation would be that my frankensub would sound better than the 120 - but the question is - but I have no idea how these would compare.

Thanks so much for your answers.

 

[GlocksRock]

I have no idea what your current box is, so it's hard to answer your question... flush mounting probably would not be a good idea unless your box is designed for that. Hard to say if it would be better than a sub-120 though, the sub-120 has pretty decent output, but the 10W3 likely has a longer stroke than the dayton driver which is bigger. The JL would sound better for sure though, I put a JL 12W0V2 in a sub-120 box using the stock sub-120 amp and it sounds better than the stock driver.

 

[annunaki]

Whether an amplifier is flush mounted or not makes absolutely no difference other than cosmetics.

As for the enclosure, 2.75 ft^3 vented tuned to 24hz will yield an anechoic f3 of 23hz at 106db with 300 watts rms***. As for the vent it would need to be a slot vent 2.0" X 11" x 33.40" long. Thus will keep vent velocities below 17m/s. If you do not use the infrasonic filter suggested below you vent dimensions will GREATLY increase and you will run great risk of damaging the sub on extreme low bass material.

This would perform quite well overall for most home audio applications and be of reasonable size as well. Response is quite flat in modeling and is +/-3db from 23hz-85hz using a 2nd order high pass (infrasonic) filter at 20hz and a low pass filter 2nd order at 80hz.

***This assumes that you also use a 20hz high pass filter to protect the woofer from over excursion below the tuning frequency.

 

[highrez]

Wow, thank you both for all of the input. I'm going to check out the dimensions of the box tonight to make sure its in line with your suggestions. If not grab a sheet of 3/4 MDF and get to building a new box.

I'm excited about this project. I think I'll use the PE 300 Watt BASH amp to power this speaker.