Anyone know about power usage--what is safe?

[Whitey80]

What I'm using:

-Plasma pulls just under 600 watts
-Xbox pulls 200 watts
-I am running a Pioneer Elite VSX92TXh which is accurately rated at 130x7 output. Running 5 channels pretty hard when in use. (Not sure of actual consumption)
-Using Boston VR960's in front which have their own sub amps at 75 watts output each
-A Dayton Titanic MKIII that is claimed 1000watts output (not sure of actual consumption)

All these are connected to a Monster HTS 2600 which is plugged into a single 110v outlet. The electrical is what was built into the apartment in the 80's.
Is this an acceptable usage of power or would it be considered "unsafe"?

 

[Rickster71]

Have you tripped a breaker yet?
A 15 Amp breaker is good for 1800 Watts.
Though if the Code is considered, it only allows a circuit to be loaded 80 % of its rated load.
So a 15 amp circuit can carry only a total of 1440 watts, which is 80% of the 1800 watts.

Does the outlet or power cord get warm?
If a breaker hasn't tripped and the outlet or cord isn't warm, and you don't have Federal Pacific breakers, I think you're ok.
Keep in mind, it's not really a constant load.

 

[Whitey80]

I do understand that it's only pulling hard at peaks, I haven't felt the cord or outlet during or after a particularly loud scene, I definitely will check it

110v outlets are only rated for 15A, correct? Haven't been tripping breakers when the power meter spikes to 20A though. And the build quality of this place is highly suspect, wasn't certain if the draw would melt a wire in wall.

 

[Rickster71]

The quick spikes are normal.
Locate your breaker panel and see what amperage they are. (usually on the tip of the breaker switch)
Also look for a label that will indicate the brand, like 'Square D' 'GE'
Make sure you don't have a brand called Federal Pacific, the don't trip.

 

[mtrycrafts]

...
Make sure you don't have a brand called Federal Pacific, the don't trip.

Is that another Chinese disaster?

 

[mtrycrafts]

All my stuff is on a 15A breaker, see link below. No problems and no Chinese breaker

 

[Rickster71]

Is that another Chinese disaster?

They were manufactured in the U.S.A. starting back in the back in the 50's.
The Federal Pacific Electric Company, no longer exists and has not been in business since 1988.

Sometimes they didn't trip, and sometimes wouldn't open when they were shut off.
I had an experience with them while cutting metal conduit 40' up on a lift . The Fed P breakers were shut off by someone on the ground, and as I cut through with a Sawzall the arc flash blew a hole in the pipe and snapped the blade in two. I had just taken my hand off the pipe and luckily was only holding the saw at the time.

 

[mtrycrafts]

They were manufactured in the U.S.A. starting back in the back in the 50's.
The Federal Pacific Electric Company, no longer exists and has not been in business since 1988.

Sometimes they didn't trip, and sometimes wouldn't open when they were shut off.
I had an experience with them while cutting metal conduit 40' up on a lift . The Fed P breakers were shut off by someone on the ground, and as I cut through with a Sawzall the arc flash blew a hole in the pipe and snapped the blade in two. I had just taken my hand off the pipe and luckily was only holding the saw at the time.

Wow. I bet that was a few hart beat stopper

 

[Hi Ho]

Wow when I Googled FPE breakers I found THIS site which has lots of information on the problem.

There are no FPE breakers in my home but there are Zinsco breakers...

http://www.inspectapedia.com/electric/Zinsco_Failures.htm

This has me a bit worried. Nearly all of the reported failures are from my area. In fact, I took the cover off and found this:

 

[Stereodude]

Though if the Code is considered, it only allows a circuit to be loaded 80 % of its rated load.
So a 15 amp circuit can carry only a total of 1440 watts, which is 80% of the 1800 watts.

This is not exactly correct. Code says you're not supposed to plug in a single device that uses a single cord / plug that exceeds 80% of the circuit's rating.

However, his Monster HTS 2600 is a single cord / plug item.

Basically if he's not popping the breaker it's fine. That whole system probably doesn't pull more than 10A average even when he's got it cranked.

 

[Stereodude]

In fact, I took the cover off and found this:

What about it? What do you think is questionable?

 

[Hi Ho]

The neutral wire with the burned insulation and the bare copper wires that look like they have gotten hot.

 

[Rickster71]

The neutral wire with the burned insulation and the bare copper wires that look like they have gotten hot.

It's common for those connections to loosen over time from thousands of heating and cooling cycles. Especially if they weren't re-torque.

When that install was done it would've been nice it they'd used the top right buss lugs, instead of doubling them up wires on the bottom row.

If you're comfortable / knowledgeable working in the panel, you could shut off that circuit (or better yet the main breaker) and clean up and / or cut off the oxidized end and re-tighten all the buss screws.

 

[Rickster71]

This is not exactly correct. Code says you're not supposed to plug in a single device that uses a single cord / plug that exceeds 80% of the circuit's rating.

I'd rather err on the side of caution when dispensing code info over the interweb. With me not being there, I'm left to assume what the OP knows & sees, and how he interprets and relays that info.

It's best under any circumstance to avoid operating a circuit at or near it's ampacity. Otherwise it produces unwanted heat, which leads to more severe heating and cooling cycles and possible loosening and oxidizing of connections.