gercho

gercho

Audioholic Intern
The sub can take 1000 watts healthy. I think a larger enclosure 4.0cuft tuned to 20 hz looks to be a very good alignment.

I plan to have a port with a 3"x12"x 55" and an internal volume of 4.0cuft

This sub is conservatively rated and I've been told it can take a lot. Of course in my room it won't need much.(small apartment living room) So I may still go with a smaller build since I'm concerned about the low LFE in my apartment. My neighbors may not like it as much as I do. :D
wow! 1000W is a lot to use in small places! Hope you have home insurance policy! :)
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I got the wood and the corner clamps I wanted.

This baby should be starting up Tomorrow.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Got some cuts made. The new Forrest Woodworker 1 blade is amazing. It was the smoothest cut I've had for ply.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Ok I really did make cuts this time. All of them. Just need to glue and prepare the baffles. I wanted something small I could use in our apartment. I'm tired of not having a sub. So I cut pieces for a 1.1 cuft box. I will stuff with a couple of pillows.
 
Matt34

Matt34

Moderator
By the time you get done the Monkey will have evolved into something that resembles Ric.:p
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
It seems my receiver doesn't have enough juice to drive my amp. :rolleyes: I guess that means I'll be having to get a booster.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Does that mean the sub is done? Bring it over here and we can try it out.
It seems my receiver doesn't have enough juice to drive my amp. :rolleyes: I guess that means I'll be having to get a booster.
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
It seems my receiver doesn't have enough juice to drive my amp. :rolleyes: I guess that means I'll be having to get a booster.
What are you going to use for EQ?

The 1124?

You could do RCA to 1/4" mono plug into the the 1124 and then out to your amp.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Bracing with the scraps. Hey I'm a Cheapskate for a reason.




Front Baffle being glued. I just need to add it's bracing and then add the stuffing and driver.



And old Pillow case makes a nice cover for the rockwool.

You can see the rockwool and the wire for the binding post.

Binding posts on the back(stole them off another speaker build I'm not using at the moment.

It's working! Now I just need to flush trim route and paint. (whenever I get around to it.):D

Nothing like adding a low distortion sub to a subless setup.:D

I got it working still want to get a DCX for eqing, but I'll need a job for that.:)
 
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Stereodude

Stereodude

Senior Audioholic
Bracing with the scraps. Hey I'm a Cheapskate for a reason.
FWIW, there are much better ways you could have used your bracing. The middles of the panels are the weakest / most prone to flex, not the edges and corners. Adding a stiffening rib or two per side would have been much more beneficial.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
FWIW, there are much better ways you could have used your bracing. The middles of the panels are the weakest / most prone to flex, not the edges and corners. Adding a stiffening rib or two per side would have been much more beneficial.
It's a small sealed sub designed for a small living area. The Bracing in there is more than adequate. And the stuffing will kill nearly all of the back wave anyway. Remember I had to make very sure the voice coil has plenty of breathing room as it takes a lot of power.

There are two joined cross braces and then several corner joints that double the thickness of the side while adding strength to the front baffle.

This thing is produces clean loud bass that easily fills this room.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Lisberian is correct. Panel resonance is almost never an audible issue in subwoofers. The panel resonance frequency is simply too high; above the passband of the subwoofer in almost any case. The only issue left then is static pressure resistance(wall flexure); enough flexure could result in external inversion of signal (cancelling); but you would have to use a ridiculously weak material for that to be an issue here.

-Chris
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Lisberian is correct. Panel resonance is almost never an audible issue in subwoofers. The panel resonance frequency is simply too high; above the passband of the subwoofer in almost any case. The only issue left then is static pressure resistance(wall flexure); enough flexure could result in external inversion of signal (cancelling); but you would have to use a ridiculously weak material for that to be an issue here.

-Chris
Precisely the reason I use 3/4" 11 ply birch. Even in commercial loudspeaker designs like the Ascend Acoustics corner bracing is used as a way to cut cost.

I must say Chris that the TC Sounds driver is as advertised. I must thank you for the constant recommendations.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I've finished flush trim routing. Now I need to find some tiger laminate or carpeting.:D
 
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