Need Behringer mod assistance

N

Nugu

Audioholic
I'm doing WmAx's mods to my behringers but I want to make sure I'm applying the stuff where I'm supposed to. I need assistance in doing so. I PM'd WmAx yesterday but he's probably busy and I don't want to wait.

Also, any tips on how to get a broken screw out are welcome. I was removing the wave guide and one screw just had the top pop right off with almost no force.


Anyways, here's pics so you can help guide me a little. I'm mainly looking for where I apply the super glue and confirmation of where I silicone seal at.

wave guide off, super glue on this area?


Separated from tweeter, will seal edge of tweeter wave guide
http://file.ss-online.org/Pictures/Misc/IMG00017.JPG

Tweeter face off, Seal around this? going around the metal nubs and not on them?
http://file.ss-online.org/Pictures/Misc/IMG00020.JPG
 
S

skers_54

Full Audioholic
Use the rope caulk on the lip and raised projections on the back of the faceplate (first pic). You don't need to do anything with the magnet of the tweeter (second pic). You should run the superglue into the little gap between the woofer magnet and the shielding can surrounding it.
 
N

Nugu

Audioholic
No wonder I couldn't figure out out the glue, I didn't even read woofer my mind went to tweet automatically.


That was the main thing I wanted because I was hearing the vibration.

Now any ideas on removing that screw that sheared off? :eek:
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
No wonder I couldn't figure out out the glue, I didn't even read woofer my mind went to tweet automatically.


That was the main thing I wanted because I was hearing the vibration.

Now any ideas on removing that screw that sheared off? :eek:
Which screw is it? Is it in wood or metal? What's the diameter of the screw? If it's large enough, you can drill a hole in the centre of the screw and pull it out with a screw extractor. Make sure you make an indentation in the end of the screw with a prick punch, so that your drill bit doesn't spin off the end of the screw.

If it's too small for that, you'll probably have to drill the screw out completely. Then, replace it with a larger screw, if it's in metal. If it's stuck in wood, after you drill it out, clean up the hole with a slightly larger bit and glue in a piece of wooden dowel (match your drill bit diameter with that of the dowel) so that it's flush with the surface. When the glue is dry, drill a pilot hole in the centre of the dowel and then you can use a screw similar to the original.

I hope that's clear enough and that it helps.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Remove the tweeter from the front panel. Use ropecaulk or similar material between the circular raised point that the tweeter mates to. There is an air leak here that must be fixed. Apply silicone (or you can use rope caulk again) around the tweeter's motor and it's own faceplate to prevent leaks between this gap.

Use lots of liquid (not gel) superglue in the gap between the woofer motor and can shield.

Check the ports in the cabinet, make sure they are securely glued to the sides.

Put in more and better acoustic dampening material in the cabinet.

-Chris
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top