A few small repairs...

jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Actually I am pulling new electrical for my component stack and projector (Sanyo PLV-z60)



Yes, that bit is extended to a total of 48". And yes, I needed every last inch. I had what seemed like two headers to punch through and then a cross brace were you see the other two holes up higher on the wall.

Now you may wonder, why are there two additional holes? It's because the that lying bastard of a stud finder said that there was a hot wire there. There wasn't. So I have three times the amount of patch to do now.

So, funny that I should ask this now: Are you allowed to pull high voltage through existing finished wall?
 
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S

sheridan

Audiophyte
Pulling Romex through finished walls for outlets or light switches is done all the time. What you don't want to do is run any power next to any signal wires. There is a chance of induced interference.
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Pulling Romex through finished walls for outlets or light switches is done all the time. What you don't want to do is run any power next to any signal wires. There is a chance of induced interference.
That won't be a problem...
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
The ceiling power. Spliced into the 14/3 line that is feeding this room and the adjacent garage lights. I figure that I can run the PJ off of the lighting circuit since the lights will be out when the PJ is on and Vice-versa. I had to wire an outlet at the splice and then throw the breaker on to see which hot was on which breaker. With that done I simply threw in a 12/3 splice to extend the run and terminated in an electrical outlet box.





Finished up with cutting in a low voltage gang and plate.




Used the existing RG6 to pull: HDMI, L and R surrounds (14awg figure about 30-35 foot run each), and another RG6 to replace the one I used to pull with.



Can't forget the cat. She most likely takes credit for it all. That is the way they roll...

 
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jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Have it all mounted and retaining hardware tightened:



 
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