Can I turn a fixed base router into a plunge?

[BigSkreen]

I have a Hitatchi M12VC fixed base router. I want to use it with the jasper jig when I realized it wasn't a plunge router. Is there something that I can buy that will allow me to turn my router into a plunge router? I'd hate to buy a new router just to cut sub holes.

Edit: Router model number

 

[sawzalot]

I have a Hitatchi MV12C fixed base router. I want to use it with the jasper jig when I realized it wasn't a plunge router. Is there something that I can buy that will allow me to turn my router into a plunge router? I'd hate to buy a new router just to cut sub holes.

It must have some type of depth setting, I would raise the motor side up high so the bit doesn't touch the material , loosen the adjusting mechanism, and slowly turn the motor end back down into the stock , while the motor is running, until you are at the desired height then tighten the adjustment mechanism and route away, I have done this and it works well with a little patience.

 

[GO-NAD!]

Is there something that I can buy that will allow me to turn my router into a plunge router?

I've never seen anything. How about drilling a starting hole for the router bit? That's just an off the cuff suggestion and I haven't tried it. I have a Hitachi M12V plunge router, so it's never been an issue for me.

 

[BigSkreen]

What is frustrating is that this exact same router has a plunge base that you can buy as a kit KM12VC which is the same router with a plunge base. I can't find any place that sells the base separately.

I might try the drilling method or lowering the router because it does have a quick switch to lower the bit but I'm not sure if I can keep this stable and lower the router at the same time.

 

[Swerd]

What is frustrating is that this exact same router has a plunge base that you can buy as a kit KM12VC which is the same router with a plunge base. I can't find any place that sells the base separately.

I might try the drilling method or lowering the router because it does have a quick switch to lower the bit but I'm not sure if I can keep this stable and lower the router at the same time.

Have you tried calling Hitachi directly? It does seem odd that they only sell the kit and not the plunge base separately. You can't be the only person who wants that.

Try the pre-drilling or lowering methods on a piece of scrap wood and see how it feels in your hands. Use a 1/8 to 1/4" depth, but no deeper on your first pass. Is your bit a standard bit, or does it have cutting edges on the bottom allowing it to cut as you lower it?

If worse comes to worse, come over to my place. I have a DeWalt plunge router. I can connect my shop vac to it and capture most of the chips and dust.

 

[BigSkreen]

Have you tried calling Hitachi directly? It does seem odd that they only sell the kit and not the plunge base separately. You can't be the only person who wants that.

Try the pre-drilling or lowering methods on a piece of scrap wood and see how it feels in your hands. Use a 1/8 to 1/4" depth, but no deeper on your first pass. Is your bit a standard bit, or does it have cutting edges on the bottom allowing it to cut as you lower it?

If worse comes to worse, come over to my place. I have a DeWalt plunge router. I can connect my shop vac to it and capture most of the chips and dust.

I do have an email in to Hitachi we will see what comes of that. I haven't bought my bit I just discovered my little error the other day during a fitting of the Jasper Jig. I plan on getting a spiral bit, a rounding bit for the corners, and a flush cut bit because I could have used one of those several times.

I appreciate the offer. Right now I won't be able to even get started until after the new year. I'm extremely excited with the sub sitting on my floor waiting to be mounted. I need a few more items before I can begin and I also need to review my design a few more times.

 

[lsiberian]

From what I can tell the part costs as much as the router. At least from my parts dealer. It was 170 for the plunge base lol. Which is how much the entire router costs.

 

[BigSkreen]

I knew it would be something like that. Amazon has the whole thing for $164 right now. I think I will try the manual method first. If that doesn't work then I will spring for the whole thing.

I can't be too mad since I got this router free with my miter saw.

 

[highfigh]

Have you seen this?
http://www.toolbarn.com/hitachi-km12vc.html

 

[lsiberian]

I knew it would be something like that. Amazon has the whole thing for $164 right now. I think I will try the manual method first. If that doesn't work then I will spring for the whole thing.

I can't be too mad since I got this router free with my miter saw.

That's nice a nice deal.

 

[highfigh]

I knew it would be something like that. Amazon has the whole thing for $164 right now. I think I will try the manual method first. If that doesn't work then I will spring for the whole thing.

I can't be too mad since I got this router free with my miter saw.

There's always Craig's List.

Having two routers doesn't suck. My first one is a cheap Black & Decker I bought in the late '70s and it still works fine. The collet slips a bit at times but overall, it's not usually a big deal and it's nice to not need to yank the other one out of the router table.

 

[BigSkreen]

You know that is not a half bad idea. I could mount one in a bench top table. Maybe this time I can get a free table saw.

 

[Serj22]

You know, I have built a few plunge guides before where I slid the regular router down two slopes, so that it would attack what-ever I was cutting at an angle and dig down into it almost sideeways. Was it safe? No, probably not. Did it work? Absolutely. It was just two ramps, and the router bit slid inbetween it and down into whatever I was cutting, then I stopped being cheap, and bought a plunge router that worked as both a regular edger and center cutter, with two seperate attachable tables.

 

[highfigh]

You know that is not a half bad idea. I could mount one in a bench top table. Maybe this time I can get a free table saw.

Mine is in the extension table of my tablesaw, but I have 7' rails. An easy way for you to do something similar if you don't have the long rails is to attach a short section between the rails on the right side and use heavy-duty hinges and drop-down legs. Then, you remove the router for storage.

 

[AllenW]

Having done a bit of woodworking, I'd take the member up on using his router.

You can slowly lower the bit into the wood and by taking very light cuts do it with your router, but things happen very fast with a router and the plunge router would be safer imho

I've had a router catch and its unbelievibly fast, much faster than your reactions can deal with.

Either way, be careful.

Al

 

[sawzalot]

You know, I have built a few plunge guides before where I slid the regular router down two slopes, so that it would attack what-ever I was cutting at an angle and dig down into it almost sideeways. Was it safe? No, probably not. Did it work? Absolutely. It was just two ramps, and the router bit slid inbetween it and down into whatever I was cutting, then I stopped being cheap, and bought a plunge router that worked as both a regular edger and center cutter, with two seperate attachable tables.

That could not and would not ever give you a clean 90 degree cut (90 degrees to the face of the stock) which is needed in speaker building, I would never recommend such an approach not only dangerous but a useless cutout imho.

 

[sawzalot]

If you ever have even an inkling of a second guessing of your wood working skills I would seriously recommend that you just save up and buy a plunge router for one simple reason, safety my friend, why chance anything, I own a plunge router and use my small trimmer to make plunge cuts by lowering the base through the height adjustment by I have no fear of the tool through experience of use I just like the smaller flush trimmer but for a hobbyist I would definitely go with the plunge set-up, safety glasses, ear protection, dust mask, no ifs, and, or buts about it, your safety is priority number one !

 

[lsiberian]

If you ever have even an inkling of a second guessing of your wood working skills I would seriously recommend that you just save up and buy a plunge router for one simple reason, safety my friend, why chance anything, I own a plunge router and use my small trimmer to make plunge cuts by lowering the base through the height adjustment by I have no fear of the tool through experience of use I just like the smaller flush trimmer but for a hobbyist I would definitely go with the plunge set-up, safety glasses, ear protection, dust mask, no ifs, and, or buts about it, your safety is priority number one !

Yeah this hobby aint worth dying for. Be smart and use the right tool.

 

[highfigh]

Yeah this hobby aint worth dying for. Be smart and use the right tool.

Is this the right tool?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlGu51uqNgQ

 

[KEW]

Yeah this hobby aint worth dying for. Be smart and use the right tool.

True, but there is almost always a safe way to do a job. In this case, I'd securely clamp the base of the router to the panel and use the standard height adjustment to "plunge" the router. Remove the clamps (It may be easier to have someone else do this) and cut the circle. Repeat as needed until full depth is obtained.
I am not familiar with the Jasper jig. If it is a good and sturdy jig, it may constrain the router well enough to make it safe w/o the clamps, but think it through first.
If it seems scary, don't do it; unless you can think of ways to add control.