In-Ceiling Subwoofer

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ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
I just use a Xantech AC1 Controlled AC Outlet. Hook it into the 12v trigger of your AVR and be done with it.

At minimum with an EP2500, 15 amp switching should be used so check that before you pick one out.
http://www.aiconsol.com/ac-1-xantech.html

NILES makes them too.

The fan mod took me 10 minutes and cost 8 bucks. The only way to hear the fan is with my ear directly on the amp.



GO-NAD! said:
I just wonder how user friendly (for my wife:rolleyes:) an EP2000 amp would be. If I have to leave it on 24/7, how much current is it going to draw with no load? How will it affect the lifespan? Plus, is fan noise going to be an issue, with or without any mods?
Click to expand...
 
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annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
GO-NAD! said:
I'm quite sure that the EP2000 will be a superior amp from a power/cost standpoint. But, those aren't the only considerations in choosing the most suitable amp. I just need to be sure that it won't present any WAF challenges, such as:

According to the EP 2000 manual: "Always make sure to completely lower amplification of both channels before powering up the amp. Otherwise, permanent damage to your speakers may occur."

Does that mean there would be a power "bump" going to the sub drivers if the gain isn't turned down during power up? If so, is it something to be concerned about? On "normal" sub amps, the gain can be left alone, so why would it be different for the EP2000?

If the gain has to be adjusted before using the amp, is it going to throw off the equalization settings? I can't see it being that easy to set the gain precisely, by hand, to match the equalization settings every time I want to turn the system on! Besides, my wife is not going to tolerate having to make any "manual" adjustments when using the system.

If the gain can be set and left alone, it won't be an issue.
Click to expand...
As long as I turn my DCX on prior to the amplifier I never have any turn on "thump".

If you have the gains up more that past 10 - 11 o'clock you are doing something wrong.

Remember that the primary original use of this amplifier is wide open live venue type use where the gains are set quite high. This is why it is in the manual.

The gain can be set and left alone.
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
annunaki said:
Here are some first steps for using the Dayton drivers:





Both of these assume 350 watts rms input power.

I would have no issues using such a design in my own home especially as the footprint is rather small. The performance appears very solid as well.
Click to expand...
I can't open the zip file! I get an error saying that the file is corrupt or invalid - just like the enclosure volume calculator. :confused:
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
annunaki said:
Just try a single click.
Click to expand...
Tried that - no dice. I've created, saved and opened other zip files without a problem. WinZip tells me to try downloading the file again. Tried that 3-4 times - again, no dice.

I tried opening the calculator using excel. Of course, that didn't work either.

I really want to see the Dayton file and use the calculator!!

Has anybody else had a problem with this? Or am I the only idiot?:confused::eek::mad:
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
GO-NAD! said:
Tried that - no dice. I've created, saved and opened other zip files without a problem. WinZip tells me to try downloading the file again. Tried that 3-4 times - again, no dice.

I tried opening the calculator using excel. Of course, that didn't work either.

I really want to see the Dayton file and use the calculator!!

Has anybody else had a problem with this? Or am I the only idiot?:confused::eek::mad:
Click to expand...
You are the only reported problem I have so far???

I am unsure what the issue may be? PM me your email and I will send you the file uncompressed.
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
annunaki said:
Here are some first steps for using the Dayton drivers:





Both of these assume 350 watts rms input power.

I would have no issues using such a design in my own home especially as the footprint is rather small. The performance appears very solid as well.
Click to expand...
OK, I'm on track with the calculator. However, for the driver and bracing displacement, I don't know and can't find the displacement of the driver alone. So, I don't know how much bracing to use. Is there a round number or guesstimate I should use?
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
GO-NAD! said:
OK, I'm on track with the calculator. However, for the driver and bracing displacement, I don't know and can't find the displacement of the driver alone. So, I don't know how much bracing to use. Is there a round number or guesstimate I should use?
Click to expand...
A 10" driver is usually .05-.06ft^3 on average.

The RS fits that criteria.
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
annunaki said:
A 10" driver is usually .05-.06ft^3 on average.

The RS fits that criteria.
Click to expand...
I was going to guess .05ft^3. Not bad, eh? One more thing - stuffing.

What and how much should I use? I know mineral wool is suggested, but I can't find anybody who stocks it. Besides, I really don't want to buy an entire bale of the stuff.

Is there a suitable substitute? What if I use regular fibreglass pink insulation and compress it to make it denser?

Will it need to be accounted for in my enclosure volume?
 
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pzaur

pzaur

Audioholic Samurai
No talk of an infinite baffle using the attic. Why not?

-pat
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
pzaur said:
No talk of an infinite baffle using the attic. Why not?

-pat
Click to expand...
I thought about it, but when I considered all the factors, I decided to go with a pair of ported enclosures. The biggest issue would be my desire to stay on friendly terms with my neighbours. Plus, the number and size of the drivers I'd need in order to achieve a similar output would make the project a lot more expensive.

I don't mind the extra complication involved in the ported enclosures, since the fabrication is well within my skills. Plus, I'm getting lots of help from Annunaki with design. MDF is cheap, so if I shag up an enclosure, I can just start over!:D

Thanks for your interest!
 
pzaur

pzaur

Audioholic Samurai
GO-NAD! said:
I thought about it, but when I considered all the factors, I decided to go with a pair of ported enclosures. The biggest issue would be my desire to stay on friendly terms with my neighbours. Plus, the number and size of the drivers I'd need in order to achieve a similar output would make the project a lot more expensive.

I don't mind the extra complication involved in the ported enclosures, since the fabrication is well within my skills. Plus, I'm getting lots of help from Annunaki with design. MDF is cheap, so if I shag up an enclosure, I can just start over!:D

Thanks for your interest!
Click to expand...
Cool. Good luck with your beast(s)!

-pat
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
In-Ceiling Enclosure Sketch

I did some poking in the attic and realized that I would not be able to get a pair of subwoofers mounted 1/4 distance from each sidewall, which are 11.5 ft apart. The slope of the roof is too low on one side. I'd have to create an L-shaped design in order to fit in a joist bay, while being low enough to clear the rafters. I don't want to get into odd shapes, so I drew up a combined enclosure.

The drivers will be closer to each other than to each side wall - I don't know if that'll be a problem. What would be better - have the ports further apart? Or, the drivers? I can swap the port locations, so that that they are adjacent to each other and spread the drivers further apart, if that would be advantageous.

The reason for minimal bracing, is that I plan to install it in the ceiling, then attach massive bracing to the outside of the enclosure. Any thoughts?

I wonder about stuffing material as well, i.e. what to use and how much?

Thanks for any input!
 
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