Trade 2 Fathom 112 for Velo DD18 ??

agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
Other than WmAx, no one else mentioned sound quality, so I dont understand what all the cuppupn's 'bout... seems fairly straightforward.

1xF112 < 1xDD18 (maybe, in small enough space F112 = DD18)
1xDD18 < 2xF112
2xF112 < 2xDD18

Or did I miss something?

If it is more about sound quality than sheer power (ability to shake couch and rattle fillings), 1x bigger < 2x slightly smaller, as shown in the AH article with the Axiom subs.
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
Well I guess to me its more then apparent here to me....

IMO - I take it he was considering more output down low... The F112's are totally awesome SQ, and in my small room is more then ridiculous for my needs, but his room is bigger and they may not be up to the task of providing that deep sub teen rumble feeling.....

The DD is no slouch in SQ, but it all depends on the size of the room - if it has to come close to its limitations to provide the output necessary for the user related to room size then, that may not be the sub of choice... pushing a sub to hard will certainly get a driver in a small sealed box quite warm and lead to compression and then irregularities in linearity, resulting in the lack of accuracy.

What size room are you workin with Franin, I have seen your room, from what I remember - its very nicely done...
 
Franin

Franin

Full Audioholic
Well I guess to me its more then apparent here to me....

IMO - I take it he was considering more output down low... The F112's are totally awesome SQ, and in my small room is more then ridiculous for my needs, but his room is bigger and they may not be up to the task of providing that deep sub teen rumble feeling.....

The DD is no slouch in SQ, but it all depends on the size of the room - if it has to come close to its limitations to provide the output necessary for the user related to room size then, that may not be the sub of choice... pushing a sub to hard will certainly get a driver in a small sealed box quite warm and lead to compression and then irregularities in linearity, resulting in the lack of accuracy.

What size room are you workin with Franin, I have seen your room, from what I remember - its very nicely done...
My room is small it's 16.404ft in length and 13.12ft wide.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Hey Franin, Why don't you consider a DIY job... I love my F112, and will be keeping it, but you could get deeper output then the F112's.

TC-Sounds is returning with the 18" LMS-5400....
You could easily do a nice sealed box 24" cube and amp which will blow away the DD-18, if your doing just one, you could pick up a SMS-1.....

My boxes cost me a little over $100. to make with birch ply.....

They are on pre-order right now... $1599.00 regular, 10% discount for pre-order.... I have 1 on pre-order to go with the 2 older models on the way.

A good pro amp with about 4000w should be more then you need, but they will handle more power then that.

If DIY is not your thing, I would look at the Seaton Submersive.
BTW, one can get LMS 15" drivers for under $600. People should know how/where -- and if they don't - PM me. I don't want to post it on here simply because of the reducing stock and me wanting them to be available for a bit longer.

-Chris
 
Franin

Franin

Full Audioholic
Just curious can you mix subs?? Eg having fathoms and another brand
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Just curious can you mix subs?? Eg having fathoms and another brand
Yes but its challenging. I have 2 ported subs and 2 sealed subs. THe way I made it work was by adjusting the subsonic filter of the sealed subs to match the rolloff of my ported subs. That is why I really like the Velodynes. It gives you that option. Very few subs offer that feature. I was a bit disappointed in JL Audio for not offering similar options, especially since they are newer subs.
 
Franin

Franin

Full Audioholic
The DD18 is a very good performer, I wouldn't say that a 12" high excursion driver will outperform it though... The F112 is a great sub, but the laws of physics certainly come into play in comparision...

The DD18 will have much better output down low depending on the room size, and on top of that it offers a built in EQ. I think the F113 is closer in terms of comparison to it though.... but the DD series is def. becoming aged IMO.....

Personally I wouldn't swap 2 F112's for a single DD18, but thats me....
PM RMK for his thoughts on the shootout he did with his Dual DD18's and the Dual F113's in his home.... he still states that they are about equal in performance.
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/member.php?u=29294

You could easily sell them off and get a couple of submersives and have 2 fantastic subs, or go the DIY route for that matter...
I've heard about the submersives, being in Australia could pose an issue regarding warranty and as for DIY my workmanship and skills are in the same league as Homer Simpson, pretty bad:D
 
Franin

Franin

Full Audioholic
Yes but its challenging. I have 2 ported subs and 2 sealed subs. THe way I made it work was by adjusting the subsonic filter of the sealed subs to match the rolloff of my ported subs. That is why I really like the Velodynes. It gives you that option. Very few subs offer that feature. I was a bit disappointed in JL Audio for not offering similar options, especially since they are newer subs.
Ahh ok, I guess in that case it's best for me to seek out another 2 F112s. Is there anyone in the U.S that can ship these subs internationally, reason why I ask is there like $5500ea here:(
 
G

Gior

Enthusiast
Hi Franin,

I've sort of been in your situation in that I've been looking at getting new subs. Twin F112's have been recommended to me but I didn't like that idea :) I'm currently running a Single Velodyne DD-18 lol

After a LOT of research these last few months, I've finally settled on getting a pair of Seaton Submersives. I'm a Sydney sider, so am only a bit closer than you are to the US :) I'm actually not worried at all about the warranty as I've had a long chat with Mark Seaton, and he is really a top down to earth bloke (he's an avid skier too and just about all the snow people are top blokes). If stuff does go wrong, sure it may be a bit expensive with freight charges, but I am sure, Mark WILL get the problem sorted. Subs really aren't that difficult. There are a few screws holding the driver in and a few holding the amp in. Unless UPS or FedEx drops the box HARD, nothing's going to go wrong with the cabinet. Both the driver and the amp are easy enough to swap out if they ever need. However, Mark's designed these puppies to be pretty much bullet proof. If you do drive them hard enough to failure, the protection circuitry does kick in.

Other options I looked at were a pair of JL Audio F212's. I originally wanted these, but just couldn't justify the Australian prices. I thought I might be able to get them in from the states for about $10k AUS, but that fell through as they are usually shipped direct from the JL Factory. The next option was a pair of F113's. I seriously considered this option and even had a single F113 in my home for a day. I can get these shipped in from the US for a landed price of about $7.5k AUD which isn't too bad considering RRP on them now is $5600 AUD. However, after auditioning the single F113 and comparing it to the DD18, I didn't think it really would give what I wanted. The F113 was much more impressive through the 30hz-80hz range than the DD-18 having much more 'punch' to it. However, below 30hz, I felt that the output became quite strained as the 13.5inch woofer really had to start moving quite a bit to be able to keep output levels going below the 30hz range. Compared to the DD-18, I felt that distortion levels on the F113 were audibly higher, but I never got round to checking with Fuzzmeasure.

Anyway, I've been seriously looking at the F113 when I came across the SVS PB13-Ultra. On paper, according to Ilkka's measurements and Craigsub's rankings, this sub 'outperforms' the F113 especially in the sub 30hz range. I mainly use my subs for HT use and the aim in replacing the DD-18 was to get more of the sub 20hz action happening. This is what ultimately steered me away from the F113. The way it does the 18hz -3b measured spec is with HUGE Xmax driven by HUGE amplification. It really is pushed to its limits down there which is why its distortion levels go up. Whereas, the PB13-Ultra being ported and tuned to 20hz or 15hz (those are the best tunes), does those frequencies fairly comfortably and just goes crazy exponentially below its tuning frequency. Peter of Deephzaudio is the Australian importer of SVS and seems like a nice guy. He is currently running a promotion on the PB13-Ultra at $2599 which I think is pretty good value. However, I still didn't bite as I've always had and built sealed subs personally and hesitate to purchase a ported sub without first auditioning. It just seems easier to get good 'impulse response' with sealed subs. I am sure that with all the glowing reviews floating around of the PB13-Ultra, it must be a pretty damn good sub though.

So now, onto the Seaton SubMersive. From trolling the forums, it does look like many former F113 owners and SVS PB13-Ultra owners (and many who've suffered from major Upgradetitis having owned BOTH the F113's and PB13's) have jumped onto the Seaton bandwagon. I can understand why too. The sub does seem to offer the best of both worlds. It offers the advantages of the impulse response of the F113 in the upper sub register being a good sealed design with a low frequency extension 'on par' with the PB13-Ultra (yes, yes the PB13 will have more output near the tuning frequency of course but the SubMersive quickly catches up as the content drops below that tuning frequency). Being a twin 15 inch driver offers quite a significant cone area advantage vs a single 13.5inch or in your case a 12 inch driver and as you know, air displacement is cone area x Xmax. The twin 15 inch driver, really doesn't have to work very hard to keep up with the 13.5 inch air movements and this should help keep distortion levels low. Amplification on the unit is also not puny utilising a 1000w ICEpower based amplifier. This is more than the 750w unit used on the SVS sub and probably just a bit less then the '2500w peak' unit used on the JL Audio.

So anyway, rather than seeking out another 2 F112's, I'd probably sit back and ask yourself what you really are seeking to do with your home theatre. If sub 20hz performance is what you are after, you can just keep the F112's (they ARE really great subs for the upper bass registers) and reinforce the lower bass with a different type of sub like Gene did - I'm thinking Seaton Terraform XL or Danley Labs DTS-20 :). Or you could sell the F112's and get a pair of SVS PB13-Ultra's for an Aussie importer with easy access to support solution. Or you could take a plunge like me and put your faith in Mark's design skills and integrity and get a pair of Submersives :)

Hope this helps and Merry Christmas BTW!
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
I will second this suggestion....

The problem is that once you taste good clean bass - you just end up craving more and more... Gior, I have met with Mark Seaton and heard and felt his products first hand - he is a great guy and puts out a top notch product, no question about it... In Franks room 2 submersives would be amazing and leave the pair of F112's in the dust as far as the the lower output goes, as well as fantastic upper bass that the F112's sport for blending with the mains....

Not sure if Frank is willing to upgrade his subs, as this thread is a little dated, but nothing like bringing it up again... :)
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
The F113 devastates the DD18. I really don't see why the DD18 is assumed to be such a 'great' performer in output. AVTALK measured this a couple of years ago, and it's maximum output levels under 35Hz were not at all impressive for an 18" subwoofer.

Also, WarpDrive is insane. His idea of 'reasonable' bass SPL is probably 15-20dB higher than a 'normal' person. LOL.

-Chris
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
The F113 devastates the DD18. I really don't see why the DD18 is assumed to be such a 'great' performer in output. AVTALK measured this a couple of years ago, and it's maximum output levels under 35Hz were not at all impressive for an 18" subwoofer.

Also, WarpDrive is insane. His idea of 'reasonable' bass SPL is probably 15-20dB higher than a 'normal' person. LOL.

-Chris
That is true, but I have to say that my appreciation for extremly very clean and powerful bass is important... :D

I agree with you 100% though.... the DD18 WAS a great sub back then but it is dated and has been exeded in performance... Its a servo design - which is pretty much a band aid for drivers that have problems performing at the depths, and must be incorporated to control a driver that gets out of control easily in the very low freq.'s

Also, one has to keep in mind I am trying to fill an area with bass at extreme levels that most people wouldn't attempt..... so extreme measures needed to be taken.... :)
 
Franin

Franin

Full Audioholic
Hi Franin,

I've sort of been in your situation in that I've been looking at getting new subs. Twin F112's have been recommended to me but I didn't like that idea :) I'm currently running a Single Velodyne DD-18 lol

After a LOT of research these last few months, I've finally settled on getting a pair of Seaton Submersives. I'm a Sydney sider, so am only a bit closer than you are to the US :) I'm actually not worried at all about the warranty as I've had a long chat with Mark Seaton, and he is really a top down to earth bloke (he's an avid skier too and just about all the snow people are top blokes). If stuff does go wrong, sure it may be a bit expensive with freight charges, but I am sure, Mark WILL get the problem sorted. Subs really aren't that difficult. There are a few screws holding the driver in and a few holding the amp in. Unless UPS or FedEx drops the box HARD, nothing's going to go wrong with the cabinet. Both the driver and the amp are easy enough to swap out if they ever need. However, Mark's designed these puppies to be pretty much bullet proof. If you do drive them hard enough to failure, the protection circuitry does kick in.

Other options I looked at were a pair of JL Audio F212's. I originally wanted these, but just couldn't justify the Australian prices. I thought I might be able to get them in from the states for about $10k AUS, but that fell through as they are usually shipped direct from the JL Factory. The next option was a pair of F113's. I seriously considered this option and even had a single F113 in my home for a day. I can get these shipped in from the US for a landed price of about $7.5k AUD which isn't too bad considering RRP on them now is $5600 AUD. However, after auditioning the single F113 and comparing it to the DD18, I didn't think it really would give what I wanted. The F113 was much more impressive through the 30hz-80hz range than the DD-18 having much more 'punch' to it. However, below 30hz, I felt that the output became quite strained as the 13.5inch woofer really had to start moving quite a bit to be able to keep output levels going below the 30hz range. Compared to the DD-18, I felt that distortion levels on the F113 were audibly higher, but I never got round to checking with Fuzzmeasure.

Anyway, I've been seriously looking at the F113 when I came across the SVS PB13-Ultra. On paper, according to Ilkka's measurements and Craigsub's rankings, this sub 'outperforms' the F113 especially in the sub 30hz range. I mainly use my subs for HT use and the aim in replacing the DD-18 was to get more of the sub 20hz action happening. This is what ultimately steered me away from the F113. The way it does the 18hz -3b measured spec is with HUGE Xmax driven by HUGE amplification. It really is pushed to its limits down there which is why its distortion levels go up. Whereas, the PB13-Ultra being ported and tuned to 20hz or 15hz (those are the best tunes), does those frequencies fairly comfortably and just goes crazy exponentially below its tuning frequency. Peter of Deephzaudio is the Australian importer of SVS and seems like a nice guy. He is currently running a promotion on the PB13-Ultra at $2599 which I think is pretty good value. However, I still didn't bite as I've always had and built sealed subs personally and hesitate to purchase a ported sub without first auditioning. It just seems easier to get good 'impulse response' with sealed subs. I am sure that with all the glowing reviews floating around of the PB13-Ultra, it must be a pretty damn good sub though.

So now, onto the Seaton SubMersive. From trolling the forums, it does look like many former F113 owners and SVS PB13-Ultra owners (and many who've suffered from major Upgradetitis having owned BOTH the F113's and PB13's) have jumped onto the Seaton bandwagon. I can understand why too. The sub does seem to offer the best of both worlds. It offers the advantages of the impulse response of the F113 in the upper sub register being a good sealed design with a low frequency extension 'on par' with the PB13-Ultra (yes, yes the PB13 will have more output near the tuning frequency of course but the SubMersive quickly catches up as the content drops below that tuning frequency). Being a twin 15 inch driver offers quite a significant cone area advantage vs a single 13.5inch or in your case a 12 inch driver and as you know, air displacement is cone area x Xmax. The twin 15 inch driver, really doesn't have to work very hard to keep up with the 13.5 inch air movements and this should help keep distortion levels low. Amplification on the unit is also not puny utilising a 1000w ICEpower based amplifier. This is more than the 750w unit used on the SVS sub and probably just a bit less then the '2500w peak' unit used on the JL Audio.

So anyway, rather than seeking out another 2 F112's, I'd probably sit back and ask yourself what you really are seeking to do with your home theatre. If sub 20hz performance is what you are after, you can just keep the F112's (they ARE really great subs for the upper bass registers) and reinforce the lower bass with a different type of sub like Gene did - I'm thinking Seaton Terraform XL or Danley Labs DTS-20 :). Or you could sell the F112's and get a pair of SVS PB13-Ultra's for an Aussie importer with easy access to support solution. Or you could take a plunge like me and put your faith in Mark's design skills and integrity and get a pair of Submersives :)

Hope this helps and Merry Christmas BTW!
Hi Gior:)
Merry Christmas and merry christmas to all.

Thanks for responding. After hooking my unit to the Audyssey Sub EQ and setting it up countless number of times I finally got the results I was after with the Fathoms.( I just has to move the couch an inch forward and it made a difference).

Im not looking at upgrading for awhile now as it does a damn good job, nice and tight.Also I spent enough upgrading to the Stewart 2:37:1 screen,Schneider Cine Digitar A- lens with Kino linear sled and projector. Where im at with the audio and PQ im extremeley happy its the best its been and especially with the Subs.

Congrats on your purchase of the Submersive Subs there starting to become quite common here in Australia as Mark Visits the Australian Forum and a few from what I have heard have them. They are the best on the market I heard and they deliver the performance.

Im going to wait a few years before anymore upgrading as the technolgy is going crazy fast.

Thankyou
Frank
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Hi Gior:)
Im going to wait a few years before anymore upgrading as the technolgy is going crazy fast.

Thankyou
Frank
It is? The W7 drivers have been around nearly a decade and are still some of the best drivers used in any commercially available subwoofer system. There are superior drivers(TC Sounds LMS is the highest performance sub driver right now), but they are so expensive on a unit by unit basis right now, that the end product would have to have an enormous price tag to turn a profit.

-Chris
 
Franin

Franin

Full Audioholic
It is? The W7 drivers have been around nearly a decade and are still some of the best drivers used in any commercially available subwoofer system. There are superior drivers(TC Sounds LMS is the highest performance sub driver right now), but they are so expensive on a unit by unit basis right now, that the end product would have to have an enormous price tag to turn a profit.

-Chris
Im curious the biggest craze at the moment is the seaton submersive, apparentley by many is the best. What subs is he using with those units?

Regarding my comment I was more referring to the performance and technology.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Im curious the biggest craze at the moment is the seaton submersive, apparentley by many is the best. What subs is he using with those units?

Regarding my comment I was more referring to the performance and technology.
Nothing 'landmark' about the quality of the drivers in those as far as I can tell. Just a 'good' driver in a well engineered cabinet(surprisingly, few commercial designs even implement a a well engineered cabinet).

If you would go DIY, no contest, you can do much better by putting most of the money into top notch quality driver and cabinet design - not brand names and profit margins.

-Chris
 
Last edited:
Franin

Franin

Full Audioholic
Nothing 'landmark' about the quality of the drivers in those as far as I can tell. Just a 'good' driver in a well engineered cabinet(surprisingly, few commercial designs even implement a a well engineered cabinet).

If you would go DIY, no contest, you can do much better by putting most of the money into top notch quality driver and cabinet design - not brand names and profit margins.

-Chris
To be honest I think the fathoms have a well engineered cabinet especially for there size.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
To be honest I think the fathoms have a well engineered cabinet especially for there size.
The 12" JL W7 easily compares to conventional 18" subwoofer drivers. The cabinets are well made, but nothing special; just standard, single mount side sealed cabinets. I am rather surprised JL has yet to introduce a proper passive radiator or ported cabinet using W7 drivers; a well engineered 4th order cabinet system would yield incredible low octave output, approximately doubling that of the sealed system, whilst still keeping a relatively small size(especially if using passive radiators).

-Chris
 
Franin

Franin

Full Audioholic
I am rather surprised JL has yet to introduce a proper passive radiator or ported cabinet using W7 drivers; a well engineered 4th order cabinet system would yield incredible low octave output, approximately doubling that of the sealed system, whilst still keeping a relatively small size(especially if using passive radiators).

-Chris
Who knows it could be something there looking at in the future.:)
 
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