D

dc6

Junior Audioholic
I found a great deal on this sub.Only 99 bucks. I know it is a lower end sub but has anybody ever had this model and is it good enough for a fill in untill I can afford a decent sub?
 
njedpx3

njedpx3

Audioholic General
Look at this for an inexpensive starting sub ...

I found a great deal on this sub.Only 99 bucks. I know it is a lower end sub but has anybody ever had this model and is it good enough for a fill in untill I can afford a decent sub?

.... Dayton SUB-120 HT Series 12" 150 Watt Powered Subwoofer for $155 USA
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-635

The Jamo sub you are looking at is 200 watts but only has an 8" speaker.

Just a idea, good luck!

NJ
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
.... Dayton SUB-120 HT Series 12" 150 Watt Powered Subwoofer for $155 USA
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-635

The Jamo sub you are looking at is 200 watts but only has an 8" speaker.

Just a idea, good luck!

NJ
But it's a long-throw 8". If the room isn't too big and it's not expected to deliver real Earth-shattering rumble, it should be pretty good. Remember- it's not how big it is, it's whether the box was designed correctly.
 
njedpx3

njedpx3

Audioholic General
My reason for mentioning Dayton SUB-120 HT

But it's a long-throw 8". If the room isn't too big and it's not expected to deliver real Earth-shattering rumble, it should be pretty good. Remember- it's not how big it is, it's whether the box was designed correctly.
Highfigh,

Thanks for you input, but let me clarify my reasoning. Actually the speaker size does make a difference in the ability to produce lower frequencies, typically subs start at 10" then prgressively for 12", 15", 18" etc. The Jamo is of Klipsch family , which is good, and the 8 might sound pretty good but even so 8 " can't physically produce the lower frequencies, i.e. below 80 or 100 Hx.

I have had expereince with SVS and Hsu subs, but albeit they are more expensive and well beyond OP's price range. I am also familiar with the Dayton SUB-120 HT which is highly recommended as an inexpensive, but very good sub. That is why I mentioned it. From my experience cheaps subs are just that cheap, sound bad and are soon replaced or turned off.

I am not saying the Jamo is a bad sub, it is just that I know the Dayton SUB-120 HT is a very good sub.

OP id you can audition the Jamo sub 200 and it sounds good to you, playing it in an evironment and size room you plan to use it for, then go for it. But, it would also be great if you could also audition a Dayton SUB-120 HT.

To future explain my opinion, I previous had a Klipsch RPW-10 Sub ( actually still have it in my garage system) which I assume is similar but possibly a little better than the Jamo sub 200; maybe not. I replaced it with a Def Tech Prosub 100, not really much better but the rest of my speakers were Definitive Technology. Then I went to a 12" SVS PB12-Plus sub and it made a phenomenal difference. Now, I realize that in additon to going to 12" I also upgraded the quality of the sub so it isnot really comparing apples-to-apples ...but that is some of the basis of my reasoning. Sorry if it is a lilttle flawed ..by that is the basis of why I think 12" might be a better than 8" for a subwoofer.

If you opinion is different the PEACE and respect.


Later and Good Luck OP,

NJ


P.S. - yes, I agree sub box design enhances the sound quality andfrequnecy response.
 
D

dc6

Junior Audioholic
The room isn't that big,somewhere around 10x12. I have an old sony home theater in a box (sub sounds ok)but the Jamo should be a step up from that.I will be using my yamaha 793 receiver with this sub.The sony system will be replaced as I am adding a Blu ray to the package and I cannot connect the blu ray to the sony dvd/amp without disconnecting cables all the time for sound.I have my HD sat connected presently.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Highfigh,

Thanks for you input, but let me clarify my reasoning. Actually the speaker size does make a difference in the ability to produce lower frequencies, typically subs start at 10" then prgressively for 12", 15", 18" etc. The Jamo is of Klipsch family , which is good, and the 8 might sound pretty good but even so 8 " can't physically produce the lower frequencies, i.e. below 80 or 100 Hx.

I have had expereince with SVS and Hsu subs, but albeit they are more expensive and well beyond OP's price range. I am also familiar with the Dayton SUB-120 HT which is highly recommended as an inexpensive, but very good sub. That is why I mentioned it. From my experience cheaps subs are just that cheap, sound bad and are soon replaced or turned off.

I am not saying the Jamo is a bad sub, it is just that I know the Dayton SUB-120 HT is a very good sub.

OP id you can audition the Jamo sub 200 and it sounds good to you, playing it in an evironment and size room you plan to use it for, then go for it. But, it would also be great if you could also audition a Dayton SUB-120 HT.

To future explain my opinion, I previous had a Klipsch RPW-10 Sub ( actually still have it in my garage system) which I assume is similar but possibly a little better than the Jamo sub 200; maybe not. I replaced it with a Def Tech Prosub 100, not really much better but the rest of my speakers were Definitive Technology. Then I went to a 12" SVS PB12-Plus sub and it made a phenomenal difference. Now, I realize that in additon to going to 12" I also upgraded the quality of the sub so it isnot really comparing apples-to-apples ...but that is some of the basis of my reasoning. Sorry if it is a lilttle flawed ..by that is the basis of why I think 12" might be a better than 8" for a subwoofer.

If you opinion is different the PEACE and respect.


Later and Good Luck OP,

NJ


P.S. - yes, I agree sub box design enhances the sound quality andfrequnecy response.
I know how the size affects the low end. As far as not being able to reproduce frequencies below 80Hz or 100Hz, that's wrong. If it's in the right box, it'll do fine. A small diameter cone can have a very low F3, especially if its mass is a bit higher and the motor assembly is exceptionally strong, so it can respond better to the cone's momentum. I'm not sure it can even be called a 'subwoofer' if it doesn't go below 80Hz (not that manufacturer claims are all truthful, but I haven't seen Jamo cheese on their specs).

My main speakers use Peerless 6-1/2" drivers and in the box I'm using, even if I block the port, they go below 80 and with the port open, there's a little bump at about 50Hz. I have them about 1' from the back wall and about 22" above the floor, toed in a bit. The size of the room will matter when it comes to the rolloff, but they can definitely go below 80Hz. I have used TrueRTA and Room EQ Wizard and they show good energy below 50Hz.

Jamo is now owned by Klipsch and as far as I'm concerned, it's not necessarily a good thing, but that's because I worked for the second dealer Jamo had in the US and I remember when we started selling their speakers- immediate acceptance and almost no problems (other than the occasional case of abuse). I still have a pair of J-101 and they have all Phillips drivers. Klipsch bought Jamo because at the time, Jamo's founders wanted to retire, so all of the stock was put in a holding company, to make the sale cleaner. Also, when Jamo was sold, they were #3 worldwide in the number of speakers sold, behind Bose and the Harmon Group. Not JBL, Infinity or another of Harmon's brands, but the whole group. That's pretty amazing for a company that didn't have particularly good brand name recognition in the US. Klipsch wanted market share and didn't need to improve the line, although a few models needed to go because they really weren't what I would consider to be true to the Jamo tradition, even as relatively short as it was before the sale. What I have heard from people who were there at the end, Klipsch is basically leaving the design to the main office in Denmark, which I think is good. They lost just about everyone at the Chicago office because nobody wanted to go to Indianapolis. I suspect that some just couldn't do it, possibly because most of them came here from Denmark and had worked for Jamo before they came to the US but also because their life was in Chicago and they didn't want to leave friends and family. It's not that far away but....

I have a Jamo A Sub.3, which is a ported 10". My living room isn't that huge and I don't want to be overpowered- I did car audio for over 25 years and for a long time after I got out of that, I didn't want to hear much bass because everyone wanted to be heard for miles around, and I hate that sound. My sub does fine below 30Hz, according to the measurements and while vented isn't my favorite sound, it does well for music and movies. Sound effects can definitely be startling and music sounds very real. It's not as good as my EV woofers (I had a pair of 30W), but it's decent enough.

I'll agree that the sound from a 12" has more balls, but for $99, this one should work well. If it's close to a wall and/or corner, it'll have more impact, as we know. Funny thing about so many of the reasonably priced drivers that have good reputations- they're made in the same factories in China. Even many of the well-known European brands have them made there but they design them in their home country.

I would like to hear more of the Dayton line. Maybe Parts Express will do a road show or go to CEDIA or CES (I haven't been there since they stopped having it in Chicago).

My opinion is different, but so am I. After more than 30 years in the business, Oh, yeah- I have some opinions, all right. :D
 
Last edited:
njedpx3

njedpx3

Audioholic General
Nice response - here are some specs

I know how the size affects the low end. As far as not being able to reproduce frequencies below 80Hz or 100Hz, that's wrong. If it's in the right box, it'll do fine. A small diameter cone can have a very low F3, especially if its mass is a bit higher and the motor assembly is exceptionally strong, so it can respond better to the cone's momentum. I'm not sure it can even be called a 'subwoofer' if it doesn't go below 80Hz (not that manufacturer claims are all truthful, but I haven't seen Jamo cheese on their specs).

My main speakers use Peerless 6-1/2" drivers and in the box I'm using, even if I block the port, they go below 80 and with the port open, there's a little bump at about 50Hz. I have them about 1' from the back wall and about 22" above the floor, toed in a bit. The size of the room will matter when it comes to the rolloff, but they can definitely go below 80Hz. I have used TrueRTA and Room EQ Wizard and they show good energy below 50Hz.

Jamo is now owned by Klipsch and as far as I'm concerned, it's not necessarily a good thing, but that's because I worked for the second dealer Jamo had in the US and I remember when we started selling their speakers- immediate acceptance and almost no problems (other than the occasional case of abuse). I still have a pair of J-101 and they have all Phillips drivers. Klipsch bought Jamo because at the time, Jamo's founders wanted to retire, so all of the stock was put in a holding company, to make the sale cleaner. Also, when Jamo was sold, they were #3 worldwide in the number of speakers sold, behind Bose and the Harmon Group. Not JBL, Infinity or another of Harmon's brands, but the whole group. That's pretty amazing for a company that didn't have particularly good brand name recognition in the US. Klipsch wanted market share and didn't need to improve the line, although a few models needed to go because they really weren't what I would consider to be true to the Jamo tradition, even as relatively short as it was before the sale. What I have heard from people who were there at the end, Klipsch is basically leaving the design to the main office in Denmark, which I think is good. They lost just about everyone at the Chicago office because nobody wanted to go to Indianapolis. I suspect that some just couldn't do it, possibly because most of them came here from Denmark and had worked for Jamo before they came to the US but also because their life was in Chicago and they didn't want to leave friends and family. It's not that far away but....

I have a Jamo A Sub.3, which is a ported 10". My living room isn't that huge and I don't want to be overpowered- I did car audio for over 25 years and for a long time after I got out of that, I didn't want to hear much bass because everyone wanted to be heard for miles around, and I hate that sound. My sub does fine below 30Hz, according to the measurements and while vented isn't my favorite sound, it does well for music and movies. Sound effects can definitely be startling and music sounds very real. It's not as good as my EV woofers (I had a pair of 30W), but it's decent enough.

I'll agree that the sound from a 12" has more balls, but for $99, this one should work well. If it's close to a wall and/or corner, it'll have more impact, as we know. Funny thing about so many of the reasonably priced drivers that have good reputations- they're made in the same factories in China. Even many of the well-known European brands have them made there but they design them in their home country.

I would like to hear more of the Dayton line. Maybe Parts Express will do a road show or go to CEDIA or CES (I haven't been there since they stopped having it in Chicago).

My opinion is different, but so am I. After more than 30 years in the business, Oh, yeah- I have some opinions, all right. :D
Nice opinion and response. Here are the specs:

Specifications SUB 200
System Bass reflex
Woofer (in / mm) 8 / 203
Amplifier rated output (W peak) 200
Frequency Range (Hz) 40 - 150
Cut off frequency (Hz Variable
Phase Variable
Impedance (Ohm) 22
Dimensions HxWxD/mm 303 × 230 × 430
Dimensions HxWxD/inches 11.9 × 9.1 × 16.9
Weight (Kg/Lb) 8.4 / 18.5

Note the 200 w amplifier output is peak-to-peak not rms so it is significnatly less than 200 watts rms, which is the typical way power is rated.

The F3 ( 3 dB drop; 1/2 volme ) is not noted but the low end of the frequency range of 40 Hz is pretty high for a subwoofer. I attibuted this to the 8 " speaker which may not be boxed and ported as well as you are used too in car stereo systems.

PEACE and again nice response about subwoofers.

NJ
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Nice opinion and response. Here are the specs:

Specifications SUB 200
System Bass reflex
Woofer (in / mm) 8 / 203
Amplifier rated output (W peak) 200
Frequency Range (Hz) 40 - 150
Cut off frequency (Hz Variable
Phase Variable
Impedance (Ohm) 22
Dimensions HxWxD/mm 303 × 230 × 430
Dimensions HxWxD/inches 11.9 × 9.1 × 16.9
Weight (Kg/Lb) 8.4 / 18.5

Note the 200 w amplifier output is peak-to-peak not rms so it is significnatly less than 200 watts rms, which is the typical way power is rated.

The F3 ( 3 dB drop; 1/2 volme ) is not noted but the low end of the frequency range of 40 Hz is pretty high for a subwoofer. I attibuted this to the 8 " speaker which may not be boxed and ported as well as you are used too in car stereo systems.

PEACE and again nice response about subwoofers.

NJ
As discussed is the "How low is low enough" thread, even if the F3 is 40Hz, it will still be punchy but it won't go down to the sub-audible range. If it's placed near a wall n the 12' x 15" room, it will be fine for most programming unless it's only going to have synthesized music played through it. As far as the 200W rating, P-P or RMS, that's going to be pretty loud. 1W average power level in that room will be louder than 1W average in a 15' x 20' room. Also, the sensitivity of the main speakers vs the sub has to be considered. I have never set the input control on my A Sub.3 higher than half way up- it would be overbearing.

As far as how well the box is designed, Jamo has the whole range of equipment for speaker testing and a whole R&D staff & facility, including an anechoic chamber, so I wouldn't worry about that. A car sub needs a different box with different output from that needed in a room, anyway. The company has been around since '68 and their speakers have won awards for sound quality, too.

However, now that I think of it, this sub also has a variable phase control instead of just a normal and 180 degree phase switch. This is something I have wanted more companies to use because if it's an either/or phase setting, the chance that it won't be phase aligned with the main speakers is very high and only moving one, the other or both will correct this. Using the variable phase control makes it much easier.
 
N

nsnipers

Audiophyte
IMO Jamo Sub200 is very good for the price. Specially we can get hold of a used sub for half the price these days. Frequency response is not bad either for a 8 inch sub. I've used this for for more than 5 years now and the it goes down to 38Hz. There are expensive subs that will have frequency response below that level. (example Velodyne EQ-Max 8 - can go down to 17Hz.) But they are way too expensive. For a small room Jamo Sub200 is more than enough. You might get more by adding a second sub like I did.
 
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