Trying to fit a subwoofer in a cabinet

[Bushka]

The driver can be had for 270 and the o audio 500 watt bash amp can be had for 230, thats your budget plus shipping.

So the driver is the speaker itself - the JL Audio 8W7, but what is the amp? I'd like to look it up ("o audio 500 watt bash amp" doesn't look like an actual name). Will I then need a separate amp connected to a receiver just for the sub woofer? I'll post any further questions at the thread you started.

I had no idea you guys would be so helpful!

 

[TLS Guy]

Yeah, I think you're better off constructing your own cabinet instead of purchasing a sub and sticking it in the hole (leave that alone guys )

That probably puts you at a usable cabinet of 1.8cuft. That is smallish for a vented sub, which from what I know, you'll have to have.

The JL Audio 8W7 will work in that enclosure size. Perhaps somebody here can model the port for you. Thats not what I do at all. I could do it, but somebody would have to fix it. The driver would mount on the top, the vent on the front at the bottom. obviously a shelf could be installed just above the driver to house your components.

The driver can be had for 270 and the o audio 500 watt bash amp can be had for 230, thats your budget plus shipping. You'll also need the materials for the cab and some accessories to get it goin. Figure 600 bucks. If that works, we can go from there and you'll have a fantastic sub.

That driver is a fantastic performer and will outperform many commercial subs at a much higher price point.

If you can come up with some better dimensions, post a question in the DIY section and have somebody model the 8w7. Actually, I'll start a thread.

Yes, it will work. Here is the model for that driver in vented alignment from my web site.

The all ceiling speaker system has put you behind the eight ball though before you start.

 

[sawzalot]

I would like to add my .02 , if you are going with a true built in that would not allow the removal of the (box/enclosure) the O-Audio Bash amp might not be the best application as it would be difficult to access, I feel an EP 2500 would be better suited then the only parts added to the enclosure would in fact be the driver , easily accessed from the front of the build, I am not 100% sure but seems like it would be easier to me.I think just running speaker wire to the enclosure from the componets would be less confusion for the build overall.

 

[adwilk]

I would like to add my .02 , if you are going with a true built in that would not allow the removal of the (box/enclosure) the O-Audio Bash amp might not be the best application as it would be difficult to access, I feel an EP 2500 would be better suited then the only parts added to the enclosure would in fact be the driver , easily accessed from the front of the build, I am not 100% sure but seems like it would be easier to me.I think just running speaker wire to the enclosure from the componets would be less confusion for the build overall.

Yeah, I was thinking budget though.. the behringer amp would require some kind of eq to keep from destroying that sub... the OAudio has one built in..

nobody ever said that it HAD to be mounted in the enclosure.... It CAN stand on its own.. it could also be built into the cab somewhere where it would be accessible.... But I see what your saying...


Edit: Lets go Cardinals!!!!

 

[Bushka]

OK, so I've gone to the Oaudio site (had to disable Malware detector) and it seems fine. I don't know about the accessibility issue as I'm still unsure how the box, driver and amp come together. Is the box divided down at the bottom with the driver facing downward and sound coming out of the open toe kick area, and then the amp is mounted on the side of the box? If so, then I would probably be able to access anything I needed by removing the plate amp. It seems to be a large enough opening to allow access to the driver, assuming the driver can be removed from the backside.

Here's a drawing. Is this what we are talking about, conceptually? If I can get dimensions and other important measurements I'm sure I can put together a design the cabinet maker can follow. Would 3/4" plywood be stiff enough, or is MDF preferred?