Software ? - Alternative to MovieMaker

Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
Actually solid state is significantly faster than a hard drive. Memory is 1000 times faster than a hard drive as memory access takes microseconds and hard drive access takes milliseconds. So a 4 gig page file on a flash drive will outperfrom one on a traditional hard drive. Now interfacing can cause issues, but still it's a substantial upgrade.
SSDs based on the right gate type and capacitors are faster, albeit not by much. This has been proven countless times, these disks don't run circles around 10k RPM Raptors yet they cost 4-5x as much per GB. Now with their prices coming down, they're looking better, but most of them are still far better on paper than in pudding. I know, I've bought enough and benched enough to reject them. Also, the DRAM chips used in SSDs are not the same as those used on memory modules. They don't have the access time or the refresh rate.

Take into consideration that a 32bit architecture can only have 4 gigs of memory and it's basically doubling your memory. True benefits are only seen when doing significant multi-tasking. But they are there.
Which is why I use a 64bit OS. =)

32bit OSs can only address 4GB of memory, and that includes more than just the system's RAM modules. That's why I specified "For someone with 2GB or less RAM, no open RAM slots, running 32bit Vista, and an available USB2 port or header, it's a fantastic option to increase performance." For someone with a 64bit OS and empty RAM slots, ReadyBoost may as well be called a Vista Boot Drive, cuz that's all it's worth.

FYI any flash drive can be used for the page file. Setting this up requires you to manually configure your virtual memory, but it's trivial to a windows savvy person.
The real world gains are negligible at best and an absolute waste of money at worst. Again, I've done. Most drives not labeled as ReadyBoost-compatible not only give no performance improvement but tend to bog the system down because CPU cycles are wasted managing their storage space as program-addressable memory. But like I said, when running a slower computer with <=2GB RAM, it helps enough to be worth the small investment. My quad with 8GB saw zero real-world improvement from a 4GB ReadyBoost drive in everything except for Vista load times. With a generic crapstick, there was zero difference no matter what I threw at it, from gaming to CAD apps.

All good info, thanks for contributing. :)
 
itschris

itschris

Moderator
Hey Nemo... looks like I was completely wrong about my desktop. It's an Athlon 2.16 and it says I have 448mb of RAM. Clearly I'm due for an upgrade. Should I just bump up to 2 gigs of RAM? Suggestions?
 
Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
Hey Nemo... looks like I was completely wrong about my desktop. It's an Athlon 2.16 and it says I have 448mb of RAM. Clearly I'm due for an upgrade. Should I just bump up to 2 gigs of RAM? Suggestions?
2.16Ghz = Athlon XP 3000+ Barton core hopefully. There is only one Socket A faster, the XP 3200+. Not even worth the money.

Unfortunately, Socket A also means DDR1, which is hard to find. I'm gonna see if I still have my 1GB PC3200 DDR1 kit here somewhere. If I do, $10 and it's yours. I honestly don't think 1GB will satisfy you in the long term, so I'm not just peddling my stuff to you. I just know DDR1 is hard to find outside of eBay because it's out of production.

If you're willing to drop some dollars on an upgrade, you've got some great budget options right now, especially in dual cores and DDR2. I can easily help you pick out the best value option for your wants.

Based on your findings, I bet you've got 512MB of physical RAM and your integrated video chipset is sharing 64MB of your physical RAM.

Well, lemme know. :)
 
itschris

itschris

Moderator
2.16Ghz = Athlon XP 3000+ Barton core hopefully. There is only one Socket A faster, the XP 3200+. Not even worth the money.

Unfortunately, Socket A also means DDR1, which is hard to find. I'm gonna see if I still have my 1GB PC3200 DDR1 kit here somewhere. If I do, $10 and it's yours. I honestly don't think 1GB will satisfy you in the long term, so I'm not just peddling my stuff to you. I just know DDR1 is hard to find outside of eBay because it's out of production.

If you're willing to drop some dollars on an upgrade, you've got some great budget options right now, especially in dual cores and DDR2. I can easily help you pick out the best value option for your wants.

Based on your findings, I bet you've got 512MB of physical RAM and your integrated video chipset is sharing 64MB of your physical RAM.

Well, lemme know. :)
it' the 3000+. The PC is just a basic Compaq Pressario SR1055CL. Is it worth throwing a new MB in their or is basically just a paperweight.
 
Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
it' the 3000+. The PC is just a basic Compaq Pressario SR1055CL. Is it worth throwing a new MB in their or is basically just a paperweight.
I had to check the model. Looks like a micro-ATX board. Not sure if there's enough room inside of the case for a full ATX board, but that's easy enough to tell from opening it.

That board limits memory pretty badly. It only has 2 slots, supports a max of 2GB, and only takes PC2700 DIMMs tops, meaning it's limiting the CPU's useful bandwidth to the memory since Barton cores are 200Mhz FSB and PC2700 is 166Mhz.

There are, however, quite a few nice u-ATX boards out that support serious hardware. If you like your case but just want more horses under the hood, it wouldn't be a problem.

Option B, eBay/Craigs/local it and build yourself a new box or buy yourself a new one. I wouldn't call what you have a paperweight, it's still a perfectly fine machine for casual users or basic work and gaming. I bet it can serve your purpose too, but if you want some more kick, that mobo will seriously limit the potential.

If you decide to buy memory, make sure you buy modules that support PC2700 with a maximum per-module size of 1GB. Some PC3200 sticks don't run well at 166Mhz surprisingly, and VIA chipsets are very picky about memory. The KM400A chipset on that board is functional, but very limiting and picky when it comes to video cards and memory modules.
 
itschris

itschris

Moderator
I had to check the model. Looks like a micro-ATX board. Not sure if there's enough room inside of the case for a full ATX board, but that's easy enough to tell from opening it.

That board limits memory pretty badly. It only has 2 slots, supports a max of 2GB, and only takes PC2700 DIMMs tops, meaning it's limiting the CPU's useful bandwidth to the memory since Barton cores are 200Mhz FSB and PC2700 is 166Mhz.

There are, however, quite a few nice u-ATX boards out that support serious hardware. If you like your case but just want more horses under the hood, it wouldn't be a problem.

Option B, eBay/Craigs/local it and build yourself a new box or buy yourself a new one. I wouldn't call what you have a paperweight, it's still a perfectly fine machine for casual users or basic work and gaming. I bet it can serve your purpose too, but if you want some more kick, that mobo will seriously limit the potential.

If you decide to buy memory, make sure you buy modules that support PC2700 with a maximum per-module size of 1GB. Some PC3200 sticks don't run well at 166Mhz surprisingly, and VIA chipsets are very picky about memory. The KM400A chipset on that board is functional, but very limiting and picky when it comes to video cards and memory modules.
I don't do a lot of power computing on this computer so I don't think I need anything radical. Perhaps a memory upgrade and a decent video card would make a pretty big difference with this for just a small handful of money. I'm going to buy Nancy a new laptop this week, but I'm not sure what I want to do for myself because I'm still trying to figure in HTPC stuff. So maybe just some subtle upgrades would be in order for this basic computer. You think? If you think so, can you give me some recomendations on what memory and video card to get?
 
Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
recomendations on what memory and video card to get?
I would suggest searching eBay for PC2700 1GB modules x2 or PC7200 2GB kit.

Either of those would max out your board. If you can find PC3200 that is guaranteed compatible with PC2700, go for it. It might be cheaper since it's newer and less obsolete, making it less rare and less valuable.

Video card depends on the kind of gaming you do. The best you can muster out of that CPU, no matter what GPU, would be mid-res (1280x1024 or lower) Valve Source engine games, maybe the Battlefield 1942 series games. If you won't game, don't bother, it's a total waste of money.
 
Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
Got it. Do you think a new vid card would help with some of the basic movie making stuff my daughter works on?

For RAM, I think this is what I should be getting correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/2GB-2-X-1GB-PC3200-DDR-400-PC-3200-2700-2100-MEMORY-RAM_W0QQitemZ290309683351QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item290309683351&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72:1234|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1309|301:0|293:1|294:50
That memory should work well chris. Also, general FYI:

128x4 X 2 DDR SDRAM CHIP CONFIGURATION

refers to the chip config. That means it's got 128MB DRAM chips x 4 chips per bank x 2 banks, making this single sided. Always stay away from double-sided memory, as they tend to have issues with VIA chipsets. 1GB modules configured as 64x4x4 are bad indeed.

Video card will most likely not help at all. The only advantage it will give is in games and a slight performance boost in Windows due to the shared 64MB of memory becoming exclusive to program space rather than the video buffer. As far as AGP cards go, you might see that $50 on memory + $50 on a video card is a worse solution than just upgrading the board, CPU, and RAM, depending on what you're willing to spend on an upgrade.

I'd say get just the RAM for now. If you're pleased with the change, stick with it. DDR1 is at a premium in price, so also check some local stores to see if they have overstock they're willing to let go of for cheap. MicroCenter is a good choice if one is local to you.
 
itschris

itschris

Moderator
That memory should work well chris. Also, general FYI:

128x4 X 2 DDR SDRAM CHIP CONFIGURATION

refers to the chip config. That means it's got 128MB DRAM chips x 4 chips per bank x 2 banks, making this single sided. Always stay away from double-sided memory, as they tend to have issues with VIA chipsets. 1GB modules configured as 64x4x4 are bad indeed.

Video card will most likely not help at all. The only advantage it will give is in games and a slight performance boost in Windows due to the shared 64MB of memory becoming exclusive to program space rather than the video buffer. As far as AGP cards go, you might see that $50 on memory + $50 on a video card is a worse solution than just upgrading the board, CPU, and RAM, depending on what you're willing to spend on an upgrade.

I'd say get just the RAM for now. If you're pleased with the change, stick with it. DDR1 is at a premium in price, so also check some local stores to see if they have overstock they're willing to let go of for cheap. MicroCenter is a good choice if one is local to you.
Alright cool. I'll order that deal right now. I promised to get Nancy a laptop this week. I just saw this on WOOT... since you've become my personal computer consultant I figured I'd ask your thoughts:

http://www.woot.com/

Seriously though. I really appreciate all the help.
 
Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
Alright cool. I'll order that deal right now. I promised to get Nancy a laptop this week. I just saw this on WOOT... since you've become my personal computer consultant I figured I'd ask your thoughts:

http://www.woot.com/

Seriously though. I really appreciate all the help.
AH, a fellow Wooter! WOOTERS UNITE! :)

Actually I was thinking about picking it up too. It's a good laptop, although I'd prefer the Turion XM to the RM.

If you have your own Vista DVD handy or can borrow one, I suggest highly a reformat as soon as you get it. You can use your license key on the back of the laptop with a Vista install DVD, perfectly legit since you own a license. HP doesn't put as much bloat on it as Dell, but still a bit of bloat on there.

That laptop would also be quite a bit more powerful than the desktop you are considering upgrading. I know you'll be happy.
 
itschris

itschris

Moderator
AH, a fellow Wooter! WOOTERS UNITE! :)

Actually I was thinking about picking it up too. It's a good laptop, although I'd prefer the Turion XM to the RM.

If you have your own Vista DVD handy or can borrow one, I suggest highly a reformat as soon as you get it. You can use your license key on the back of the laptop with a Vista install DVD, perfectly legit since you own a license. HP doesn't put as much bloat on it as Dell, but still a bit of bloat on there.

That laptop would also be quite a bit more powerful than the desktop you are considering upgrading. I know you'll be happy.

I think WOOT is sorda like the guy's QVC! I buy all kinds of stupid crap from there. I think I'll pick up that laptop today.

I don't have Vista, but will probably just go buy it since I want the latest Media Center stuff for the HTPC side of things.

Considering the HTPC, for awhile, I was all about having this really nice high end case and what not, but hen realized... why? I won't even see it in my cabinet. My main goal is to have some sort of front end like a touchscreen laptop or the HP touchscreen desktop so I don't have to always have the tv on when I want to listen to music. Maybe that desire is uncessarily complicating things though. If I have a laptop to access my music (over wireless) stored on the server in my cabinet, it's the laptop that has to be connected to the HT correct? In other words, my original thought was that I'd have the HDMI connection from the server in my cabinet to my Pioneer since it would be easy cabling, and just control it from the laptop... but I don't think I can do that however. I guess I could run some remote control program, but that seems kinda silly. I'm assuming if I'm runinng Media Center on my laptop, I'd have to have at least a coax connected from the laptop to the system.

I like the idea of just sitting on my couch and being to finger through my music, but I don't know how to get around the cables. Any thoughts?
 
Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
Many ideas for HTPC, I'll go pretty deep into the subject later when I have more time to give a good writeup.
 
itschris

itschris

Moderator
I skipped out on that laptop. I didn't realize it was a refurb. I've had bad luck with refurbished computer stuff. It's not worth the $100 savings. I'm going to start the search fresh.
 
itschris

itschris

Moderator
I've seen a ton of good deals on refurbs... maybe I should rething my stand. What do you think? I was on TigerDirect and they have some great refurb deals. I'm thinking I should be able to trust a company like that.
 
Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
I base my refurb choices on the warranty offered. At least 90 days, prefer as new. For laptops, because of the charge cycle sensitivity on batteries, I tend to stay away from refurbs, but they're not always a bad deal.

I'd frequent techbargains and slickdeals. See if you can snatch a coupon deal for one from those sites.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
SSDs based on the right gate type and capacitors are faster, albeit not by much. This has been proven countless times, these disks don't run circles around 10k RPM Raptors yet they cost 4-5x as much per GB. Now with their prices coming down, they're looking better, but most of them are still far better on paper than in pudding. I know, I've bought enough and benched enough to reject them. Also, the DRAM chips used in SSDs are not the same as those used on memory modules. They don't have the access time or the refresh rate.



Which is why I use a 64bit OS. =)

32bit OSs can only address 4GB of memory, and that includes more than just the system's RAM modules. That's why I specified "For someone with 2GB or less RAM, no open RAM slots, running 32bit Vista, and an available USB2 port or header, it's a fantastic option to increase performance." For someone with a 64bit OS and empty RAM slots, ReadyBoost may as well be called a Vista Boot Drive, cuz that's all it's worth.



The real world gains are negligible at best and an absolute waste of money at worst. Again, I've done. Most drives not labeled as ReadyBoost-compatible not only give no performance improvement but tend to bog the system down because CPU cycles are wasted managing their storage space as program-addressable memory. But like I said, when running a slower computer with <=2GB RAM, it helps enough to be worth the small investment. My quad with 8GB saw zero real-world improvement from a 4GB ReadyBoost drive in everything except for Vista load times. With a generic crapstick, there was zero difference no matter what I threw at it, from gaming to CAD apps.

All good info, thanks for contributing. :)
The new Intel drives do outperform HDs in read and seek time substantially. So the future is very promising for SSDs. Of course 8 gigs of ram makes it's a waste at the moment.
 
itschris

itschris

Moderator
The refurb I'm looking at now has 3 gigs of RAM and 320gig hd, 17" screen and AMD Turion processor. It's got HDMI out which is important so my wife can easily plug it into the tv's.

The price is $579 and an extended warranty is $120.. Not bad. I feel pretty good about that.

NEMO... where the HTPC ideas! It's all about priorities! I'm sure whatever you're doing is not nearly as important as getting on here and posting... so get with the program!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Nemo128

Nemo128

Audioholic Field Marshall
I'd have to scrutinize a lil more to say for sure, but the specs on the first link would be better. The RM-70 CPU is better performing and runs cooler than the TL-60. A ZM Turion is the best bet if you can find a laptop with one.

The details in the description say they both have the TL-60 though. I need to check around to know which is correct.
 

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