My madisound build thread

[jwenthold99]

Looks like a fun project. Looks good so far, and I am looking forward to the completion and your impressions!

As a side note, I built my first speakers when I was 14, for $168.00 and it was an amazing learning experience. I impatiently waiting to buy a house so i can have an area to build more, utilizing some of the info and resources from this site

My 14 year old brother wants to build the Kappa Perfect sub this summer, so I am looking forward to helping him with that.

 

[WmAx]

I'm open to convincing if you have a better box design or suggestions.

My goal is the best sound. I'll probably use these boxes for now, but if I can upgrade with a different design. I'm all ears.

I'm thinking you would dampen them with 8lb rock wool all the way around.

Is this a correct statement?

Well, as you seem to be treating this project casually, and have already finished the basic box shape, it's really too late now to do it right.

It does take far more than some bracing and the common acoustical dampening set up (that you are doing) to result in a true neutral speaker system.

PM me if you are interested in more information, or you can do extensive searches on my username for posts on this subject. However, it might be easier to just PM me.

-Chris

 

[lsiberian]

Well, as you seem to be treating this project casually, and have already finished the basic box shape, it's really too late now to do it right.

It does take far more than some bracing and the common acoustical dampening set up (that you are doing) to result in a true neutral speaker system.

PM me if you are interested in more information, or you can do extensive searches on my username for posts on this subject. However, it might be easier to just PM me.

-Chris

I'm following the outlined design on the Madisound website. I

've read many of your posts on the subject and while I do have the desire to pursue that end in the future. I"m of the belief that the current 2-way driver setup is insufficient for getting good low response in a neutral box down to 80hz. So I'm thinking an MTM or TMM would be required.

The two future designs I'm actually considering are a TL design

Or a truly neutral speaker for my next project.

I'll pm you when I'm ready to undertake the next step.

I really appreciate your contributions here. Even if it seems like I'm not implementing them all.

As stated previously my goal here was to build it to the design specified in order to familiarize myself with my tools before building a more permanent enclosure. One could say these boxes are a sort of training exercise for future projects in that I've gained a lot of valuable knowledge from this experience. My next speaker boxes will be a great improvement on these.

This summer I plan to upgrade these drivers to a new box and perhaps build an mtm or tmm.

 

[alexwakelin]

I"m of the belief that the current 2-way driver setup is insufficient for getting good low response in a neutral box down to 80hz. So I'm thinking an MTM or TMM would be required.

You might be underestimating these drivers. My current receiver has a sub pre-out without an adjustable crossover, so my RB's are running full range. With my sub crossover set at 100hz, the RB's blend seamlessly. I use them for a variety of music and gaming, and they've handled everything I have thrown at them. As I am using them as computer speakers, so I don't have to push them very hard, but I think hooked up to an AVR and crossed over at 80hz they would still perform very well. If I have some time in the next few days I might move them to the living room and see how they do with my copy of king kong. I don't own many movies (netflix subscriber), but the dinosaur stampede would be a good test.

 

[lsiberian]

You might be underestimating these drivers. My current receiver has a sub pre-out without an adjustable crossover, so my RB's are running full range. With my sub crossover set at 100hz, the RB's blend seamlessly. I use them for a variety of music and gaming, and they've handled everything I have thrown at them. As I am using them as computer speakers, so I don't have to push them very hard, but I think hooked up to an AVR and crossed over at 80hz they would still perform very well. If I have some time in the next few days I might move them to the living room and see how they do with my copy of king kong. I don't own many movies (netflix subscriber), but the dinosaur stampede would be a good test.

But from what I remember of your build you didn't dampen and brace it like Wmax suggests. I'm pretty certain a design that well braced could use another lower range driver. I think I may actually start working on a design for this idea.

I will try out these boxes as existing. And for your benefit let you know of the results when compared to a properly neutral box. I believe I can come up with something as long as I have an internal volume to work with.

I agree that I've taken this project a bit casually. But I'm certainly interested in building a much better box.

 

[alexwakelin]

But from what I remember of your build you didn't dampen and brace it like Wmax suggests. I'm pretty certain a design that well braced could use another lower range driver. I think I may actually start working on a design for this idea.

I don't remember if I took pictures of that step, but I did put in a center brace and install some accoustic foam. I used the stuff from parts express with the adhesive back.

 

[lsiberian]

I don't remember if I took pictures of that step, but I did put in a center brace and install some accoustic foam. I used the stuff from parts express with the adhesive back.

Wmax is a huge proponent of Rock Wool and he would probably suggest more than a center brace. Though I'm waiting for his bracing suggestions.

Nice thing is I have no issue phantoming my center now. So I only need 2 boxes the next go round.

 

[lsiberian]

Ok so I hooked up the crossovers to their wires. I had some soldered and some I just used terminals for. Now I just gotta drill, screw and glue my front baffle on. Then I get to listen.

 

[alexwakelin]

Ok so I hooked up the crossovers to their wires. I had some soldered and some I just used terminals for. Now I just gotta drill, screw and glue my front baffle on. Then I get to listen.

What are you doing here then? You've got work to do, and we want to know how they sound!

 

[sawzalot]

Ok so I hooked up the crossovers to their wires. I had some soldered and some I just used terminals for. Now I just gotta drill, screw and glue my front baffle on. Then I get to listen.

I am looking forward to your thoughts and an updated pic , you beat me done with my build but I am right on your heels .

 

[lsiberian]

I am looking forward to your thoughts and an updated pic , you beat me done with my build but I am right on your heels .

After this. I plan to build a JL Audio 8w7 sub. My size constraints are making the Kappa project just unrealistic. And I would like to have a narrow ported sub that can be use as a stand for the next box I build.

The next boxes I use for these will be built like a fortress. 2" of rock wool on every wall at least maybe 4" on the back. Doubled box with dynamat in between. Braces every 3" at least.

 

[highfigh]

After this. I plan to build a JL Audio 8w7 sub. My size constraints are making the Kappa project just unrealistic. And I would like to have a narrow ported sub that can be use as a stand for the next box I build.

The next boxes I use for these will be built like a fortress. 2" of rock wool on every wall at least maybe 4" on the back. Doubled box with dynamat in between. Braces every 3" at least.

Instead of Dynamat (or other membrane), have you thought about using Duraliner (truck bed liner)? I haven't used it myself but it seems that it may have some decent properties for attenuating resonances.

 

[lsiberian]

Instead of Dynamat (or other membrane), have you thought about using Duraliner (truck bed liner)? I haven't used it myself but it seems that it may have some decent properties for attenuating resonances.

Wmax suggested Peel & Seal as a cheaper option to dynamat.

I plan to use that. This will be down the line a bit though. I've got some subs to build first.

 

[shootermcgaven2]

did you cut the mdf with a table saw or a skill saw?

 

[lsiberian]

did you cut the mdf with a table saw or a skill saw?

It's Birch Ply and was cut with a Bosch CS10 Circular Saw.

 

[sawzalot]

It's Birch Ply and was cut with a Bosch CS10 Circular Saw.

If you ever second guess how straight you will cut with a circular saw you can always use a four foot level and two quick clamps as a rip fence/straight edge to run the saw base along side to get the same cut as you would with a table saw, just as clean and precise just dont push so hard against as to move the guide and you will be pleasantly surprised as to how straight your cuts will be.I know you want to build more so I hope this helps.

 

[fredk]

You can even get strait cuts with a jigsaw with that method. Sigh, I miss my table saw.

 

[avaserfi]

If you want to make a perfectly straight cut with a circular saw, within 1/32" accuracy I recommend these instructions: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/tools/4283497.html

A jig such as this, if properly used, will result in accuracy with a circular saw on par with high quality table saws. Of course, this assumes the base of your circular saw does not flex. Also, note, you cannot change blades with this jig and retain accuracy. Once you make the jig you must use the same blade or make a new jig for every time you switch due to minor differences between differing blades.

 

[lsiberian]

If you ever second guess how straight you will cut with a circular saw you can always use a four foot level and two quick clamps as a rip fence/straight edge to run the saw base along side to get the same cut as you would with a table saw, just as clean and precise just dont push so hard against as to move the guide and you will be pleasantly surprised as to how straight your cuts will be.I know you want to build more so I hope this helps.

I actually have a very long metal ruler now that I think will work well with the clamp method. But the level idea is great. You happen to know any good Dust collection methods for a saw. If have a shop vac I use for my router and sander. And literally no dust leave the cut and sanded areas.

I actually use a table with a piece of dow foam. and an old sheet. now. Before I was cutting on the ground. And I think that lead to my issues.

 

[lsiberian]

If you want to make a perfectly straight cut with a circular saw, within 1/32" accuracy I recommend these instructions: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/tools/4283497.html

A jig such as this, if properly used, will result in accuracy with a circular saw on par with high quality table saws. Of course, this assumes the base of your circular saw does not flex. Also, note, you cannot change blades with this jig and retain accuracy. Once you make the jig you must use the same blade or make a new jig for every time you switch due to minor differences between differing blades.

I've read this article and it is truly excellent.