My new project: RaverArray

[MidnightSensi]

I had an idea over the weekend, I did a set at a rave down in someones giant basement, place was absolutely packed. I didn't provide the PA, we had some turbosound tops with 10 DIY bass scoops, no idea the drivers...they sounded like..well, scoops. haha. Loud, but, they kinda pulsed and resonated like the old reggae scoops tend to.

Anyways, I thought of an idea: I want to build very small subwoofers with resonably high output, cutoff around 25-30Hz (doesn't need to go to 20Hz, this is for music, I'd rather gain the headroom up top), sound good, but the idea is that they could fit in a normal car trunk, back seats, etc. one person could easily move them, etc. etc. Then you have a bunch of them, so you can stack them up for the output you want. Or use them to smooth response around a room in a small package.

I'd want to use an 8-ohm driver (dual 4-ohm or single 8) so that it could either be run off an inexpensive amplifier or with better amps run two or three on a channel.

Some drivers I looked at:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p4903/RE8--RE-Audio-8"-250-Watt-Dual-4-Ohm-RE-Series-Subwoofer.htm

The Diamond Audio d3 8" that used to be made, I think they still sell them but I can't find thiel small parameters.

Diamond Audio d6 10" ... bigger driver but can use in a pretty small sealed box, but the cost then will go up.

I want to keep driver cost reasonable since I'll end up building a bunch of them.

What do you guys think, what drivers should I go after?

 

[MidnightSensi]

Ah, almost forgot, I'll probably use birch ply for the face for the screw retention, but I may use 1/4" and then 1/2" honeycomb or foam core (for a total of 3/4") for the rest of the box to keep it extra light weight.

 

[annunaki]

The problem with sealed enclosures for these applications is that most drivers have an f3 around 40hz or higher. Getting flat response to your liking requires a robust driver with ample headroom with xmax and power compression. Not to mention it needs exceptional linear Xmax to handle the EQ demands.

TC sounds drivers would probably work here as they have an F3 to your liking. They are heavy though and expensive. Enclosure size is not tiny by any means either.

Large vented enclosures are typically used because they offer a lot of air movement with lower power input. In other words, they are efficient at moving large amounts of air. That of course is a necessity in such a situation.

 

[MidnightSensi]

The problem with sealed enclosures for these applications is that most drivers have an f3 around 40hz or higher. Getting flat response to your liking requires a robust driver with ample headroom with xmax and power compression. Not to mention it needs exceptional linear Xmax to handle the EQ demands.

TC sounds drivers would probably work here as they have an F3 to your liking. They are heavy though and expensive. Enclosure size is not tiny by any means either.

Large vented enclosures are typically used because they offer a lot of air movement with lower power input. In other words, they are efficient at moving large amounts of air. That of course is a necessity in such a situation.

I'm talking about using a small vented enclosures though, and keeping cabinet size down with the intention of using a small 8" driver. Basically a mini of the giant I recently built that weighs over 120-lbs even using birch ply. Then output would be gained by using multiple subwoofers, or an array of them. Weight would be kept lower by using foam or honeycomb coring.

I would want to build them so they are stackable like Legos.

I guess I just want to try something different, I just did a big vented enclosure and its great, but, for my next build I want to play around with something a bit smaller and more exotic.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Oh, I get really, really good deals on JL Audio and Diamond Audio, so, those drivers in some cases might make more sense. I was looking at the w3 8" ... the diamond 10" d6 (they made a 8 but I don't think anymore)

 

[annunaki]

Oh, I get really, really good deals on JL Audio and Diamond Audio, so, those drivers in some cases might make more sense. I was looking at the w3 8" ... the diamond 10" d6 (they made a 8 but I don't think anymore)

The 10W3v3 or 8W3v3 would be pretty good options. They are pretty linear drivers with solid ability & xmax capabilities.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Cheers.

I'm going to model some drivers and then post them up if you wouldn't mind taking a look.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Eh, so my budget is coming up a bit (I'll spend some time building this subwoofer, so, I'll spend slowly) because I fell in love with a driver:

JL Audio 8w7

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=1

Looks like I could make a very small ported box and get some badass output out of this thing.

*edit* Figured I'd edit rather than make another post... here are some demos I've done, based off the JL Audio recommendations, one with their tuning and one with a lower tuning. Both have a bit bigger slot port to lower air velocity for sound quality. I'd run a 8.5x2" port, about 41 for the 30Hz tune and 46 long for the 28Hz tune. The box so far looks like it would be only about 14x14x15 or so...

...so I'd call it...

The lil'Raver

 

[Wafflesomd]

So do you want to use this for PA and home use?

You'd be better off just making some 15" reflex cabinets. Using pro drivers.

EV MTL comes to mind to meet your needs. Relatively small, can be loaded into a car, one man lift.

There are other designs as well. An array of 8" low sensitivity subs.

 

[MidnightSensi]

So do you want to use this for PA and home use?

You'd be better off just making some 15" reflex cabinets. Using pro drivers.

EV MTL comes to mind to meet your needs. Relatively small, can be loaded into a car, one man lift.

There are other designs as well. An array of 8" low sensitivity subs.

Well, originally it was going to be for both, but, now its just home. I want a badass little subwoofer for music, I've mapped out a JL 8w7 and this is what I have so far in the computer:

No rendering yet, the one wall isn't in line with the other, in an attempt to break standing waves. Probably paint it some flashy color, or maybe something understated...

If I go sealed with it, I can keep it smaller, but it seems like the driver has overexcursion pretty quickly once you get into the depths without a port.