I need some box plans for a DIY ht sub

[GlocksRock]

I plan using my old elemental designs e15A flatone sub. I know I want it ported, and that's about it... I would also prefer to use a plate amp instead of something like the EP2500, so a good ~1000 watt amp will also be needed.
Also, I do not plan on building the enclosure myself, I would have a local cabinet builder, or possibly stereo shop build it for me, so I would need to know what all else would be needed, if anything.

I wanted to get an SVS PB13 Ultra, but I figured this would be more cost effective, and if done correctly, I'm hoping that this will give me just as much if not more output as the ultra, or at least be a lot better than my current 20-39PC+

Here are the t/s parameters of the sub so a proper enclosure can be designed.

Here is the sub, it is a TC9 motor

 

[lsiberian]

I know of no plate amp that can actually deliver 1000 watts of power.

Most deliver far lower than there rated specs. The best I've heard are Bash amps which can deliver around 380 amps. These are the same as the ones used in the SVS subs. So to beat it in output you would need to design a superior box and/or have a more efficient sub.

The Behringer EPs are very universal in their sub amp home use. And for 250 from zzounds they are only a little more than the Bash amps.

I suggest if you want a full proof build you just do the Infinity Kappa Perfect MidVQ listed or an Audio Pulse build. But that sub looks promising maybe TLS, Andrew or Chris can find something good for it.

Sell your sub on ebay and use the money toward one of those subs.

I am betting a FMod 20hz High Pass paired with a Behringer would get you much greater performance than any plate amp. Even better would be to pair it with a DCX 2496. But money can be tight. I plan to use an fmod until I get the funds for a DCX. Which i very much want. If you need to hide the amp I can understand, but don't give up all that amp for a plate amp.

 

[GlocksRock]

I love that sub, it has amazing sound quality, and would fair very well in a HT build. I would just keep my current SVS before I bother to sell it and go through the hassle of doing the kappa build. I really don't have anywhere to put a behringer amp in my rack, which is another reason I want a plate amp... Parts Express and Elemental Designs both have 1000 watt plate amps on their site, so I don't know of any other ones right off hand, but I haven't taken too much time to look right now. If I don't use the 15 for ht purposes, I'll keep it and eventually have a ported box made for it when I get a vehicle that can accomodate it. Otherwise I'll just save up and sell the my current sub and get an ultra when I can afford it. I have no doubts about this driver, and that it can outperform the kappa perfect, if it has a good box and enough power.

 

[MidnightSensi]

I'd actually love to design a box for you, but don't have time at the moment... but have you played with WinISD yet? Download WinISD Pro (google it), it's free and works pretty well. You can play with box sizes, types, program that driver in there, give it various power output and see response, cone excursion, etc. Pretty easy to use.

Otherwise I can chime in here and there or if I have some time in the next week do one with that driver.

Stick with what you want, it'll be more fun to try some different drivers than just the Infinity's. I just build a Diamond Audio D6 15" box ported subwoofer powered by a Crest CC1800 and it absolutely pounds. I'm going to take some pictures this weekend. It's very rewarding, and if you have some love for that driver, stick with it...if you build one subwoofer you'll end up building a bunch.

 

[GlocksRock]

Yeah, I've tried messing with WinISD, but I don't understand it. I'm pretty busy and just want to be able to hand a cut list to someone to build the box, then I can bring it home and drop in the amp and sub and then go from there. There is no big rush on getting this done as my current sub is doing just fine.

 

[lsiberian]

Yeah, I've tried messing with WinISD, but I don't understand it. I'm pretty busy and just want to be able to hand a cut list to someone to build the box, then I can bring it home and drop in the amp and sub and then go from there. There is no big rush on getting this done as my current sub is doing just fine.

You just put in the parameters. Get the Vb. And then build a braced box of Birch Ply with the appropriate bracing and Rockwool filling. You will need to add the rockwool later most likely.

 

[lsiberian]

this thing will take a very big box. To get any low extension from my first tries at it.

in a reasonable box your extension is to 30 hz before it drops off.

It can be stretched by increasing the box to very large sizes, but I doubt you want a 10 cu ft box for a sub.

From my initial go I conclude this sub is not suitable for Home theater use. I suggest you consider selling it.j

I'm taking another pass with WinISD Alpha but it's difficult to work with.

it's getting better results so maybe something can be done with the sub.

To get the down to 20hz will take around 18 ft^3

However with a Bass management system you could safely push this sub much harder in a smaller box and get very high SPL at the lower range. This sub is very capable of extremely high sound before it ever get's close to it's excursion limit. I suggest you consider an eq for this.

I need to go to bed. I'll try to help more later. I've got this thing in WinISD.

With even a bash amp in the right sized enclosure this thing could bust your ear drums

 

[GlocksRock]

Thanks for the help... I know it's a mean driver, which is why I want to use it. There is a video of it on realmofexcursion.com, go to videos then elemental designs, and it's the second video down from the top... it's some guy playing a 40 to 0 hz. tone and this sub has crazy excursion. 29 mm one way!

The thing is, this was designed as a small box sub, when I had it in my car, I was using a 1.7 ft.^3 sealed box, and the reccomended ported enclosure is only like 2.5 ft.^3, but I forget the tuning freq. I know the box would need to be larger to get a lower tune, but I don't think it needs to be 18 ft.^3 to acheive the desired results.

I think one of these would be a suitable amp.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_106&products_id=500

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-808&ctab=2#Tabs

 

[lsiberian]

Not if you used an eq but I don't know how to model an EQ in WinISD.

The sub easily does anything above 30hz. But it does require a big box and vet for 20 hz based on the the paramater you gave me.

A 25 hz extension can be had with a very nice flat resposne in a 12 ft^3 box.

Remember to get the average side you will need to Cube root the numbers

and 18 ft^3

is around 2.6 ft per side on average and would get you a very sick extension.

2.2 ft per side on average properly tuned can get you a good extension to 25 hz. And is my recommended build. With the subs wmax you can push it harder at low frequencies, but you will need more than a plate amp.

 

[lsiberian]

Thanks for the help... I know it's a mean driver, which is why I want to use it. There is a video of it on realmofexcursion.com, go to videos then elemental designs, and it's the second video down from the top... it's some guy playing a 40 to 0 hz. tone and this sub has crazy excursion. 29 mm one way!

The thing is, this was designed as a small box sub, when I had it in my car, I was using a 1.7 ft.^3 sealed box, and the reccomended ported enclosure is only like 2.5 ft.^3, but I forget the tuning freq. I know the box would need to be larger to get a lower tune, but I don't think it needs to be 18 ft.^3 to acheive the desired results.

I think one of these would be a suitable amp.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_106&products_id=500

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-808&ctab=2#Tabs

A plate amp rarely meets its specs.

The former I am not familiar with, but I know the later doesn't provide anywhere near 1000 watts. Chris could tell you what it specced at.
So definitely don't get the Dayton.

How far do you plan to sit from the sub?

The best plate amps tend to be Bash Amps.

I suggest you take a strong look at them. However if you want that sub 20hz extension the EP2500 would fit the bill much easier and delivers as advertised.

 

[GlocksRock]

It sounds like this may end up being more involved that what I'm looking for... I may just go with my original plan to just sell one of my current subs and get an PB13 Ultra.

 

[lsiberian]

Thanks for the help... I know it's a mean driver, which is why I want to use it. There is a video of it on realmofexcursion.com, go to videos then elemental designs, and it's the second video down from the top... it's some guy playing a 40 to 0 hz. tone and this sub has crazy excursion. 29 mm one way!

The thing is, this was designed as a small box sub, when I had it in my car, I was using a 1.7 ft.^3 sealed box, and the reccomended ported enclosure is only like 2.5 ft.^3, but I forget the tuning freq. I know the box would need to be larger to get a lower tune, but I don't think it needs to be 18 ft.^3 to acheive the desired results.

I think one of these would be a suitable amp.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_106&products_id=500

That amp is the Keiga KGND52100 relabeled. I've heard that Keiga amps have very accurate ratings. So I can suggest that AMP. Plust I've been reading and the bash 500 amps have a roll off under 30 hz according to one thread I read at eacoustics.

Still it's inferior to an EP2500, and you will want an eq imo for this amp.

 

[lsiberian]

It sounds like this may end up being more involved that what I'm looking for... I may just go with my original plan to just sell one of my current subs and get an PB13 Ultra.

That's the fun part of DIY.

I suggest we try to work it out for you. This sub is very capable and can produce a lot of output in the right box with the right port.

My only concern is the size of the box.

 

[GlocksRock]

I have plenty of space, but I don't want a ginormous box in my living room. I will also not be making the enclouse myself, so I would have to be able to get it from wherever to my house without too much trouble as well. I just don't have the room in my rack for an external amp, or an eq, which is why I say it needs to incorporate a plate amp. If someone can design a nice ported box of reasonable size, then I will consider it.

 

[lsiberian]

I have plenty of space, but I don't want a ginormous box in my living room. I will also not be making the enclouse myself, so I would have to be able to get it from wherever to my house without too much trouble as well. I just don't have the room in my rack for an external amp, or an eq, which is why I say it needs to incorporate a plate amp. If someone can design a nice ported box of reasonable size, then I will consider it.

without an EQ you will need it to be 18 ft^3 from my work that isn't a small box. I suggest you get a tape measure and go to your listening position.

Measure out 2.6 feet in a cubic kind of pattern and see if that's too big If so. Then this sub won't meat your size constraints. We can adjust the dimensions, but without an EQ I'm afraid that's you only option for a deep extending sub box with this sub.

If you wanted to add a plate amp to the Kappa Perfect. You would just need to add the depth to the sides top and bottom on the rear or side mount the plate amp. This cabinet had cad plans already on the site and has great extension to 20 hz.

It's a very nice sub with great potential if anyone wants to take it off your hands and use an eq in conjunction with an ep2500. I would need some help from other member to model this, but if you got the space and size this sub can be pushed fairly hard before it breaks.

 

[MidnightSensi]

without an EQ you will need it to be 18 ft^3 from my work that isn't a small box. I suggest you get a tape measure and go to your listening position.

Measure out 2.6 feet in a cubic kind of pattern and see if that's too big If so. Then this sub won't meat your size constraints. We can adjust the dimensions, but without an EQ I'm afraid that's you only option for a deep extending sub box with this sub.

If you wanted to add a plate amp to the Kappa Perfect. You would just need to add the depth to the sides top and bottom on the rear or side mount the plate amp. This cabinet had cad plans already on the site and has great extension to 20 hz.

It's a very nice sub with great potential if anyone wants to take it off your hands and use an eq in conjunction with an ep2500. I would need some help from other member to model this, but if you got the space and size this sub can be pushed fairly hard before it breaks.

That's an absolutely huge box. I have a ~6.5cf box (5.5cf interior plus the vent length) and with the driver in its like 115-lbs. I put two handles on the side so you can actually carry it. So, for his living room, a 18cf box will not work.

Also, I just played with some boxes for this subwoofer and don't see how you got to that big of a box...

It seems like its designed for tuning in the 30s, but to extend the low end for home theater the happy medium seems to be about 28Hz, giving it a 4cf ported box... which is still pretty big but more managable depending on his vents.

Where the driver seems to be at most home is in a ported box at 32Hz tune with a 2.5cf box.... which would be excellent for a car but not so hot for a home theater subwoofer.

What's the power handling Glocks?

 

[GlocksRock]

Power handling is 1000 watts RMS, but this driver can really take some abuse. Back when this was still being sold, it was reported that people were feeding it at least 1500 watts rms ported, and it was doing ok. But this sub is/was mainly designed for use in a car, so I may not attemp to use it for an HT build after all. I do have a friend who may want to purchase this from me, so if he does, I'll likely sell it to him, and sell one of my current svs subs, and eventually get an ultra.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Nice, yeah, this would be a nice car subwoofer for sure. From my mapping.... 2.75cf ported box or so, 118dB at 35Hz with 1000-watts input. With cabin gain that would be some serious boom.

 

[GlocksRock]

I'm sure in a car, with a nice ported box and 1000 watts, you could get around 140db or so with that sub. If I had room for a ported box for that sub in my civic I'd use it, but right now I'm very happy with my 2 12W6V2s in their ported inclosure... 3 cubes tuned to 32.5 hz. with about 1300 watts RMS to the pair. It bumps nice and hard, and still sounds really good.

 

[lsiberian]

That's an absolutely huge box. I have a ~6.5cf box (5.5cf interior plus the vent length) and with the driver in its like 115-lbs. I put two handles on the side so you can actually carry it. So, for his living room, a 18cf box will not work.

Also, I just played with some boxes for this subwoofer and don't see how you got to that big of a box...

It seems like its designed for tuning in the 30s, but to extend the low end for home theater the happy medium seems to be about 28Hz, giving it a 4cf ported box... which is still pretty big but more managable depending on his vents.

Where the driver seems to be at most home is in a ported box at 32Hz tune with a 2.5cf box.... which would be excellent for a car but not so hot for a home theater subwoofer.

What's the power handling Glocks?

This was the only way I could get the sub to extend to 20 hz in WinISD Pro Alpha with the Parameter given. It's the first time I've ever modeled something was kinda fun actually.

Size is relative, but it is a big box IMO. And I wouldn't use the sub in a home theater application.

Still the MidVQ has an 8ft^3 box and some don't mind a huge box and dolly's to move their subs

You right this sub is ideal for a car sub. Great response to 30hz in a ported enclosure of much smaller size.

But with an eq I think one could get far more out of this sub because of it's high movement capabilities.