Broke my Logitech Z-5500 subwoofer!!

[XDavis]

Yes, as the title says, I broke my sub so I took the box apart and took the sub out. The cone was detatched from the bottom. Thats fatal right? Well thats what I assumed so I went to a car audio place and bought a new sub that was the same size. First let me tell you I am new to all of this but I figured since its already broke let me give it a try. So hooked the sub up exactly how the other one was and could only turn it up half way before it started clipping. So I got scared, and started reading manuals. The new sub can handle 250W RMS of power, the old sub is at 188W RMS so I should be good there right?? I figured, so another thing I saw was that the resistance load was different. See for those who don't know about this particular logitech subwoofer, it comes in its own box (very hard to get open too) and inside is the amp as well. So everything is already preset for the old sub so im trying to make it work for my new sub.

Heres what I think the problem is:

the specs on logitech say 8 ohm load, my new sub has dual 4 ohm terminals. So when I originally hooked it up, i only hooked up one terminal because the old sub only has one terminal. But Im thinking I need to hook both 4 ohm terminals in series to combine for a 8 ohm load and i should be able to crank it all the way without clipping. Before I do this can anyone tell me that Im right just in case i might be on the wrong path to breaking another sub?

 

[markw]

Too many variables.

Your best bet is to simply call Logitech and try to order the correct replacement.

 

[TLS Guy]

Yes, as the title says, I broke my sub so I took the box apart and took the sub out. The cone was detatched from the bottom. Thats fatal right? Well thats what I assumed so I went to a car audio place and bought a new sub that was the same size. First let me tell you I am new to all of this but I figured since its already broke let me give it a try. So hooked the sub up exactly how the other one was and could only turn it up half way before it started clipping. So I got scared, and started reading manuals. The new sub can handle 250W RMS of power, the old sub is at 188W RMS so I should be good there right?? I figured, so another thing I saw was that the resistance load was different. See for those who don't know about this particular logitech subwoofer, it comes in its own box (very hard to get open too) and inside is the amp as well. So everything is already preset for the old sub so im trying to make it work for my new sub.

Heres what I think the problem is:

the specs on logitech say 8 ohm load, my new sub has dual 4 ohm terminals. So when I originally hooked it up, i only hooked up one terminal because the old sub only has one terminal. But Im thinking I need to hook both 4 ohm terminals in series to combine for a 8 ohm load and i should be able to crank it all the way without clipping. Before I do this can anyone tell me that Im right just in case i might be on the wrong path to breaking another sub?

You can't swap drivers like that. Every driver has what is known as Thiel/Small parameters, and every driver needs a unique box volume and porting, if it is for a ported enclosure. Your box will not load the cone properly, so you will get excessive excursion. Also some drivers can only be used in sealed boxes, and will destruct if in a ported box.
You only have two options. Have your broken driver reconed, with OEM parts, or buy a new driver from Logitec.

You will not get the driver to play louder by connecting the voice coils in series, in fact the reverse, but it will likely prevent you blowing up the sub amp.

 

[Sheep]

Doesn't matter how much wattage the new driver can handle. You can clip a driver with 5 watts and destroy it. I say you take your new driver back, and get the Logitech one. This time, don't crank the **** out of it.

SheepStar

 

[audiocharlie]

Yes, as the title says, I broke my sub so I took the box apart and took the sub out. The cone was detatched from the bottom. Thats fatal right? Well thats what I assumed so I went to a car audio place and bought a new sub that was the same size. First let me tell you I am new to all of this but I figured since its already broke let me give it a try. So hooked the sub up exactly how the other one was and could only turn it up half way before it started clipping. So I got scared, and started reading manuals. The new sub can handle 250W RMS of power, the old sub is at 188W RMS so I should be good there right?? I figured, so another thing I saw was that the resistance load was different. See for those who don't know about this particular logitech subwoofer, it comes in its own box (very hard to get open too) and inside is the amp as well. So everything is already preset for the old sub so im trying to make it work for my new sub.

Heres what I think the problem is:

the specs on logitech say 8 ohm load, my new sub has dual 4 ohm terminals. So when I originally hooked it up, i only hooked up one terminal because the old sub only has one terminal. But Im thinking I need to hook both 4 ohm terminals in series to combine for a 8 ohm load and i should be able to crank it all the way without clipping. Before I do this can anyone tell me that Im right just in case i might be on the wrong path to breaking another sub?

well im not sure how long this post has been up but in my experience
you dont want a 4 ohm driver replacing your 8 ohm driver 4 ohm will pull more power out of your amp kinda like adding more speakers to a system with out adding more power

also if you hook up the DVC and run both sides of the speaker it will act like 2 two subs and drain power like you would not belive causeing clipping and fuses to blow at only half the volume

i would prolly run the one side of the woofer for a while but would surley kill the amp

i suggest going to www.partsexpress.com look at the woofers they have and get one that has the same ohm lvl and size you need or check ebay

good luck
i also have a Z-5500 with a blown plate amp im looking for a new amp atm
there not very tight systems!

 

[buckstermeister]

Broke my logitech z-5500 subwoofer

My question is why would anyone put a automotive sub in an home system. I used to install car stereos with and without subs and they all and I mean all use 4ohms on the speakers where as all home and I mean all home systems use 8 ohms. That is why you are getting the distortion and not able to utilize the sub as before. If any store tells you otherwise walk away from them they are lying thru their teeth. You are trying to pump 8 ohms of sound thru a 4 ohms speaker its like trying to push a quarter through a nickle slot on older style gumball machines. It just can't be done without damaging something. I would determine the size of the sub and the actual handling power of the sub some say 505 watts but be very religious about the actual wattage of the original sub and get as close to that as you can and make absolutly sure the sub speaker is 8 ohms not the 4 ohms, then check to see what the speaker is able to handle in the way of sealed or ported sub enclosures, the Z5500 is ported the z5300 is ported without any external speaker grill as found in the Z-5500. I hope this helps you out and happy hunting. Usually a store or business that handles mostly electronic parts, wires, speakers and the like is your best bet. Radio shack is not the way to go for this type of repair.


The Buckstermeisterbraue