Help choose the right DIY for me

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smihalik

Audioholic
More and more I'm wanting to forget about my PB-12plus I thought I was 100% going to get, in favor of a DIY. I won't be doing the build. I'll find a cabinet maker.

Room is 19X12X8. I would like a relatively small enclosure. As small as possible without compromising performance too much. Definitely no more than 2X2X2. I also need the sub to be able to play quite high. My speakers freq response is 110hz-20khz, So crossover will probably be set around 90-110Hz. I also need a build that is easy to follow. I will be giving the plans to someone with no experience building sub enlosures. And as I will be putting the finishing touches, ie wiring it up etc, I would rather have something easy to follow. I also have zero experience with this.

Although I was going to spend $1600 (canadian) on the PB12, my finances have changed a bit. House needs new floors and a new driveway, so the budget for this is smaller. Want to keep it under a grand. Ideally around 500-750.
 
Matt34

Matt34

Moderator
I'll go ahead and answer the question hear that you asked in my other thread. These are the plans for the Infinity Kappa Perfect build I'm doing.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45528

They are big slot ported subs but compromise nothing in performance. I'm in the same position as you hiring out the work but all of the cabinet makers I've talked to say it's a very easy build compared to what they do day in/day out. You can do two of them for right around $1000 U.S.
 
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smihalik

Audioholic
I'll go ahead and answer the question hear that you asked in my other thread. These are the plans for the Infinity Kappa Perfect build I'm doing.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45528

They are big slot ported subs but compromise nothing in performance. I'm in the same position as you hiring out the work but all of the cabinet makers I've talked to say it's a very easy build compared to what they do day in/day out. You can do two of them for right around $1000 U.S.
Thanks Matt. This doesnt show how to mount the amp or wire it or anything like that. I need to know about that stuff. Maybe there are general rules for ported enclosures like this. Can you point in the direction of where I might find this?
 
A

alexwakelin

Full Audioholic
Thanks Matt. This doesnt show how to mount the amp or wire it or anything like that. I need to know about that stuff. Maybe there are general rules for ported enclosures like this. Can you point in the direction of where I might find this?
Most people do not use an on-board amp for the Kappa DIY subs, so you will just need to mount a terminal plate on the sub. The recommended amp for that build is the Behringer EP2500.

http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHEP2500

I was on a budget and went with a less powerful amp, but I'm sure mine would be insufficient for a large room.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
More and more I'm wanting to forget about my PB-12plus I thought I was 100% going to get, in favor of a DIY. I won't be doing the build. I'll find a cabinet maker.

Room is 19X12X8. I would like a relatively small enclosure. As small as possible without compromising performance too much. Definitely no more than 2X2X2. I also need the sub to be able to play quite high. My speakers freq response is 110hz-20khz, So crossover will probably be set around 90-110Hz.
Realize, that crossing this high will present problems, especially with music, in achieving a seamless transition from the sub to main speakers. Stereo subs would alleviate the problem, of course, one placed in each side of the room.

Crossing this high also has potential problems for sound quality in relation to the resonant frequency of the cabinet panels. You may want have additional stiffening added to the larger panel spans in the cabinet. Epoxy installtion of steel U channel would help greatly. Also, use plenty of the specified high density acoustic insulation board for the project.

-Chris
 
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smihalik

Audioholic
Realize, that crossing this high will present problems, especially with music, in achieving a seamless transition from the sub to main speakers. Stereo subs would alleviate the problem, of course, one placed in each side of the room.

Crossing this high also has potential problems for sound quality in relation to the resonant frequency of the cabinet panels. You may want have additional stiffening added to the larger panel spans in the cabinet. Epoxy installtion of steel U channel would help greatly. Also, use plenty of the specified high density acoustic insulation board for the project.

-Chris
A few things,

1.Unfortunately, I can't run the subs on either side of the room. Would one at the front right of the room and another at the rear left of the room work?

2.Whats a U channel? Im guessing I could ask the cabinet maker to reinforce the thing with U channels an he would understand?

3.Would the one EP2500 be enough to power both subs? or do I need two?

4.This build is HUGE. Are there any smaller projects you might be able to suggest. I'm willing to give up a little bit in terms of SPL. Maybe a sealed cabinet build? A sealed 15 would be quite a bit smaller, no?
 
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Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
Another route to go would be a Maelstrom-X 18" sealed, which is very proficient crossing over that high and SQ is awesome... I cross my Studio 100's at 100hz with 3 of these subs with no problems what so ever localizing.

Power it with a EP2500 and you got a sweet and powerful combination. It makes for a nice table.

Here is a cutsheet, for the 24" cube
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/its-loud-dude/AVS/Shervins Cubes/CutSheet.jpg


Just another option for ya....

check this guys build thread as well for more pics... http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/exodus-audio/16320-dual-box-sealed-18-mal-x-build-begins.html
 
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smihalik

Audioholic
Another route to go would be a Maelstrom-X 18" sealed, which is very proficient crossing over that high and SQ is awesome... I cross my Studio 100's at 100hz with 3 of these subs with no problems what so ever localizing.

Power it with a EP2500 and you got a sweet and powerful combination. It makes for a nice table.

Here is a cutsheet, for the 24" cube
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/its-loud-dude/AVS/Shervins Cubes/CutSheet.jpg


Just another option for ya....

check this guys build thread as well for more pics... http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/exodus-audio/16320-dual-box-sealed-18-mal-x-build-begins.html
What do you guys think. Between this and the Kappa build? The idea of an 18" is pretty cool. This looks easier to build as well...Could have my dad help me build it.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
The Kappa Perfect slot port build will work fine as a pair, with one Ep2500 driving both cabinets.

You can use sealed as a smaller option to the Kappa Perfect build; the Perfect build will end up a little over 5 cubic feet total of gross volume. But going sealed, you have to use a driver with long linear stroke, which means a higher cost, and higher power requirement, such as needing an Ep2500 per driver.

The Maelstrom-X 18" is an option, if you can manage to get it(it seems to be on backorder most of the time). But you won't be able to use a cabinet much smaller than the Kappa Perfect build would end up. The Sound Splinter 18" is another superb option, or the 15" Sound Splinter, with a bit less output(less surface area, of course), to save some real space. You can use the 15" in a 2.5-3 foot sealed cabinet, and get high, very clean output, if you use a Behringer Ep2500 amplifier and a DCX2496 as the response correction tool(using a sealed undersized cabinet requires electronic compensation, and only works well with extremely linear drivers like the Sound Splinter and Maelstrom X and other limited number of long stroke linear drivers; but this is a perfectly acceptable option and is a method used in such popular high end subs like the JL Audio Fatham and Gotham subwoofer systems).

As long as you can get more than one subwoofer distributed in the room, you will have better integration. Ideally they will be the same distance co-located from each main, of course. If you can cross at about 55Hz or lower, using a 4th order crossover, one subwoofer will integrate nearly perfectly for music. But when crossing at higher frequencies, you usually need multiple subwoofers to integrate with the mains for music perfectly. It's also not strictly about localization. It's about proper response summation with each main speaker simultaneously across the transition/crossover band.

-Chris
 
S

smihalik

Audioholic
I'm leaning towards the maelstrom 18. Although to save space, a 15" sealed my be another option. Can anyone point me towards some good plans for a sealed 15?
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I think they have design software somewhere online don't know where. It's one of the forums I believe. But basically for a sealed design you will want good bracing and the right cu.ft size for the sub.

I think TLS has a list of subs with the cu ft specified. So check that for more help.
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
I'm leaning towards the maelstrom 18. Although to save space, a 15" sealed my be another option. Can anyone point me towards some good plans for a sealed 15?

Heheheh your going to have a hard time squeezing an 18" driver in a 15" box..:)
 
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smihalik

Audioholic
Anybody have any other suggestions for a smaller build? Like a sealed 12 or 15? The kappa and maelstrom both seem like great builds, but I'm not sure I want something that big in my living room. Never mind two of them...:)
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I should probably explain why the Eclipse SW8200 I specify in the link that Matt34 provided is suggested. The particular driver uses TC Sounds LMS motor technology, thus giving you a 12" driver with more linear displacement then most 15" drivers. With some EQ correction, it will work superbly in a 2.5-3 cubic foot sealed enclosure. I do recommend at least 700-800 watts RMS for this driver.

-Chris
 

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