mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
Polarity is just 0 or 180...correct?

Yes, I have tried various settings.

I need to recheck mic positions.
yes, i do believe that is correct - but for some reason, it worked for me more than changing the phase from 0 to 180 :)
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
I will give it a shot tomorrow and let you know.
 
Davemcc

Davemcc

Audioholic Spartan
That dip is bothering me and I'm thousands of miles away from there.:D

One way I can think of to pinpoint or exclude the crossover as the culprit is to disable the sub altogether. Select sub = NO in the setup menu and run full range sweeps using the just the mains as full range monitors. If the dip is gone, the crossover is the culprit. If it's still there, it's the room. I'm just chucking out ideas at you in the hope that one lousy idea helps.
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
It gets worse if I go out of phase.

I can flatten it out with a contour of +6 at 75hz but that doesn't seem like a good idea....is it?
Don't get too hung up on the graphs. While conventional wisdom says boosting is not a good idea, the capability is there for a reason. Do you think Audyssey only cuts frequencies?

I say go ahead and give it (6db boost at 75hz) a try. If it sounds good, problem solved.:)
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Using the contour or adjusting the sliders?
Don't get too hung up on the graphs. While conventional wisdom says boosting is not a good idea, the capability is there for a reason. Do you think Audyssey only cuts frequencies?

I say go ahead and give it (6db boost at 75hz) a try. If it sounds good, problem solved.:)
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
I agree with RMK, boost that null, but adjust the Q so its wide and feathers out a bit....

Doesn't look like a bad response at all... Your doing just fine... the more you play with it, the better you will get at it.

SMS-1 first to smooth out your sub, and then run Audessey is what I have read many times... Don't forget to utilize a couple of those memory slots and play it out in different ways, you will find that if you move the mic a few inches or feet everything will change, but do try out different positions with the mic and save them to memory so you get a good idea of what you room is doing.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Good call on the memory slots Warp, I forgot about doing that so everytime I jack around with it, I lose what I started with.

When I move the sliders over to the higher frequencies I get a huge peak at 50 hz that one slider will not calm.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Here is my mains only. No sub, no EQ. Same 80hz dip seems to be present.




That dip is bothering me and I'm thousands of miles away from there.:D

One way I can think of to pinpoint or exclude the crossover as the culprit is to disable the sub altogether. Select sub = NO in the setup menu and run full range sweeps using the just the mains as full range monitors. If the dip is gone, the crossover is the culprit. If it's still there, it's the room. I'm just chucking out ideas at you in the hope that one lousy idea helps.
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
Good call on the memory slots Warp, I forgot about doing that so everytime I jack around with it, I lose what I started with.

When I move the sliders over to the higher frequencies I get a huge peak at 50 hz that one slider will not calm.
Well you've got eight of em:p.

You should play with the phase a little to see if it helps the 50hz peak.

OTOH, you can just cut that sucker down with a slider or two but remember, 50 hz is where a lot of the fun is so a little bump (3-4db) isn't so bad;).

BTW, your native (mains only) room response looks pretty good. It should sound pretty good too. Remember, the SMS_1 is a nice tool but your ears tell the rest of the story. Good day!
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja


Looking at this graph, try to move that slider at 15hz back towards the 20hz range.... you are really stressin out the amp by trying to boost that area that the driver is fighting.

Your Hump at 50hz with that drivers is pretty natural and pretty much built into the drivers dynamics... with that said, I would try to take some of the sliders away from that area and try to massage the dip you have, possibly by straddling the null on either side with sliders and experiment with boost, with a Q of somewhere around 10hz, if that isn't effective enough, then narrow the Q a bit more, tighten up how close those straddles of the null and see.

Take a slider up to 100hz with a wide Q give it a slight boost as well, just to see how it effects that null... it may seem strange, but little tweeks outside of the problem can have a minor but sometimes beneficial reaction...

Did you say your crossing at 60hz...? These drivers start to naturally roll off right around there, so IMO that would be a good area, can you do 50hz...?

I'm curious, did Andrew stuff that box, or line it with anything?

Warp
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
i found my mind in the gutter after reading:

"straddling ... on either side"
"massage the dip"
"crossing"
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
LOL..... all but the crossing part....:eek::confused: I'm all for... !!!! :D

Leave it to you Mike....
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
No go...tried everything and that dip is still there. The only way it goes away is to move the mic to the left in my room. The more left I move it, the more it evens out.

My crossover skips from 60hz to 40hz.

Box stuffed with rockwool.


Looking at this graph, try to move that slider at 15hz back towards the 20hz range.... you are really stressin out the amp by trying to boost that area that the driver is fighting.

Your Hump at 50hz with that drivers is pretty natural and pretty much built into the drivers dynamics... with that said, I would try to take some of the sliders away from that area and try to massage the dip you have, possibly by straddling the null on either side with sliders and experiment with boost, with a Q of somewhere around 10hz, if that isn't effective enough, then narrow the Q a bit more, tighten up how close those straddles of the null and see.

Take a slider up to 100hz with a wide Q give it a slight boost as well, just to see how it effects that null... it may seem strange, but little tweeks outside of the problem can have a minor but sometimes beneficial reaction...

Did you say your crossing at 60hz...? These drivers start to naturally roll off right around there, so IMO that would be a good area, can you do 50hz...?

I'm curious, did Andrew stuff that box, or line it with anything?

Warp
 
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