SVS PB13-Ultra or JL audio Fathom

[bandphan]

"pass that..." I state, as you exhale...


You can build a nice W7 in a box... but it's not a Fathom folks.

I'm not going to even start on this one... Some google will do this misinformation well.

My advice to the thread originator... Spend the money, get the Fathom, it's wickedly delicious.

nasd90

Is he going to eat the sub?

ah, good... you were able to get some of that before it went out too.

nasd90

so brazen form someone who is only trolling

 

[WmAx]

"pass that..." I state, as you exhale...


You can build a nice W7 in a box... but it's not a Fathom folks.

I'm not going to even start on this one... Some google will do this misinformation well.

My advice to the thread originator... Spend the money, get the Fathom, it's wickedly delicious.

nasd90

The W7 driver used in the Fathom is slightly different - it has different TS parameters and a slightly larger motor. But, it's the same driver technology as the one sold for car use. The car audio one will perform nearly identical when used per my specification(s) in a sealed system, or it will substantially out perform the retail Fathom if used in a proper ported system built to my specification(s) at the cost of increased cabinet size. The DIY version has the potential to be superior to the retail product for this very reason. Even the 12" W7 will substantially outperform the 13" Fathom, if you use the 12 in a ported system that is properly designed/built. Sealed systems have significant reduced output potential in the lowest octave when compared to a properly designed/built ported system.

-Chris

 

[mike c]

or for the price of a fathom with the tweaked driver ... you can practically DIY yourself a dual sealed 13W7 which i'm pretty sure will beat even the tweaked driver.

 

[WmAx]

or for the price of a fathom with the tweaked driver ... you can practically DIY yourself a dual sealed 13W7 which i'm pretty sure will beat even the tweaked driver.

Even the single driver W7 DIY version will be so close, that it's just not an issue. The tweaks are very minor. The main difference will be the TS parameters, which just end up dictating a different box size for a certain natural response curve. But in the end, you'll be using EQ to get the final desired response, just like JL Audio does - it's by no means a non-EQed system. It would never get flat to 20Hz response in that case.

-Chris

 

[annunaki]

To be fair, you don't that level of bracing for general home use, where the average output level is far lower as compared to car audio where people like to run the subs full blast continuously. Also, if one uses high grade hardwood ply instead of MDF; the ply is far stronger/more durable and requires far less bracing as compared to the MDF to get an equivalent strength box.

-Chris

Chris,

I can get 3 sheets of 3/4" MDF for the price of 1 sheet of 20mm 13 layer cabinet grade plywood. I don't mind the extra bracing when the cost differential is that great. Not to mention, if I want to go crazy with output, I have the option.

 

[WmAx]

Chris,

I can get 3 sheets of 3/4" MDF for the price of 1 sheet of 20mm 13 layer cabinet grade plywood. I don't mind the extra bracing when the cost differential is that great. Not to mention, if I want to go crazy with output, I have the option.

Actually, if you consider the cost of the driver, amp, etc,; the cost differential is TINY! You know that high grade ply like 13 ply birch is far stronger than MDF, yet lower in weight. You can get an equivalent strength enclosure with much less bracing. Plus, I really hate MDF.

-Chris

 

[Warpdrv]

Actually, if you consider the cost of the driver, amp, etc,; the cost differential is TINY! You know that high grade ply like 13 ply birch is far stronger than MDF, yet lower in weight. You can get an equivalent strength enclosure with much less bracing. Plus, I really hate MDF.

-Chris

+1 Chris.... I hate MDF and will not work with it.....

I would rather waste a box, and build another spending the $70.00 on a sheet of 13 ply birch then ever have to deal with MDF.... EVER....

I can get almost an entire sealed box for an 18" driver out of a 4x8 sheet except for an extra brace I like to put in..... to me its worth every penny..

 

[annunaki]

Actually, if you consider the cost of the driver, amp, etc,; the cost differential is TINY! You know that high grade ply like 13 ply birch is far stronger than MDF, yet lower in weight. You can get an equivalent strength enclosure with much less bracing. Plus, I really hate MDF.

-Chris

I will admit, I actually like mdf for many projects. It is easy to cut & finish. When I decide to build some reference monitors I will get some 13 ply birch.

 

[T2T]

+1 Chris.... I hate MDF and will not work with it.....

I would rather waste a box, and build another spending the $70.00 on a sheet of 13 ply birch then ever have to deal with MDF.... EVER....

I can get almost an entire sealed box for an 18" driver out of a 4x8 sheet except for an extra brace I like to put in..... to me its worth every penny..

Companies like eD have shifted to an MDF that is free of formaldehyde adhesives, etc. Over time, the dust from MDF can really be a burden for a person.

I like your suggestion / preference for the ply - certainly, something I'd opt for in a future build ... as that MDF dust makes my garage look like it was hit by a 3-day sandstorm.

 

[T2T]

I will admit, I actually like mdf for many projects. It is easy to cut & finish. When I decide to build some reference monitors I will get some 13 ply birch.

Yes, but after you've taken the time and effort to cut and finish everything - does one really want to go through the whole process again just to use ply? I can see using MDF if one were to make a "mock" version and then to later repeat it many, many more times with the ply. In that case, it seems like the effort would be OK. Otherwise, the ply route seems better - and, personally, I'd just work a bit slower with it to ensure I didn't mess up.