Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
I've been wondering - is this for home use or a vehicle?
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
Definitly for home use . I have one sealed sub already and want to build another. Actually I don't have alot of woodworking tools so I might have to get a shop in the area to do it. I have just been looking for plans for the box to see what it will take to do it. The site where I bought the sub recommended a 2.2cu.ft. box and I thought they had the plans available but I can not find them. If someone could point me to a site where I can get the plans or if someone here would have some suggestions I would appreciate the info.:) I am off to work now but will check back later......
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I just bought this sub,http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24_93_150&products_id=653 and I need to build a sealed enclosure that is 2.2cu.ft. Is there someone or somwhere I can get the plans to build it. I will be useing the EP2500 to power it.
You should also use a device like a Behringer DCX2496, not only for xover, but to shape the lower end response of the sealed box and get your ideal target response - it's not usually optimal to accept the natural sealed response curve. Using the EP2500 in mono bridged will give you plenty of power for significant EQ and that sub supposedly has a very substantial amount of excursion(which I wonder just how linear this movement is - this sub is unusually low in cost for these excursion specs - so I am naturally suspicious of it) which would make it very suitable to substantial EQ shaping.

-Chris
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
You should also use a device like a Behringer DCX2496, not only for xover, but to shape the lower end response of the sealed box and get your ideal target response - it's not usually optimal to accept the natural sealed response curve. Using the EP2500 in mono bridged will give you plenty of power for significant EQ and that sub supposedly has a very substantial amount of excursion(which I wonder just how linear this movement is - this sub is unusually low in cost for these excursion specs - so I am naturally suspicious of it) which would make it very suitable to substantial EQ shaping.

-Chris
Hi Chris, I have an sms1 that I use now so I should be fine. I have a sealed sub now and wanted to try 2 or if this one turns out to be better than the one I have then I will sell the other. The Shiva was recomended to me by a very respected person over at the home theater shack so I hope it is what I am looking for. If I can get this thing built I will let everyone know how it performs.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Hi Chris, I have an sms1 that I use now so I should be fine. I have a sealed sub now and wanted to try 2 or if this one turns out to be better than the one I have then I will sell the other. The Shiva was recomended to me by a very respected person over at the home theater shack so I hope it is what I am looking for. If I can get this thing built I will let everyone know how it performs.
Sell the SMS. The DCX is a far more powerful device. Ironically, it's also much cheaper. :D

-Chris
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
Sell the SMS. The DCX is a far more powerful device. Ironically, it's also much cheaper. :D

-Chris
I know what you mean but the SMS works very well for me and it is very user friendly. I called the company that makes the driver I just bought and the guy I talked to said he would email me the plans for the enclosure. Funny that no one here has built this enclosure, Oh well. He also told me that if I am going to run 2 subs to try stacking them. I thought if you stack them the top one would vibrate off so how do you stop that from happening besides connecting them.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Do you have any restrictions on any of the dimensions (L W H)? Establish two of them and it makes the 3rd a variable that you can adjust to accommodate bracing and damping volume. Damping volume is to be calculated as 5-10% of the actual volume from what I understand if this holds true for a sealed enclosure. I had never considered one before.

Buy some graph paper and start drawing or get see what the HTS member did for his. I imagine he would happily share info as you are going this route based on his success.

Edit: The idea is that with a good sub is that the only thing in the room not vibrating is the sub.
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
Do you have any restrictions on any of the dimensions (L W H)? Establish two of them and it makes the 3rd a variable that you can adjust to accommodate bracing and damping volume. Damping volume is to be calculated as 5-10% of the actual volume from what I understand if this holds true for a sealed enclosure. I had never considered one before.

Buy some graph paper and start drawing or get see what the HTS member did for his. I imagine he would happily share info as you are going this route based on his success.

Edit: The idea is that with a good sub is that the only thing in the room not vibrating is the sub.
Length and width are the only problems I would have but height would be no problem. I get what you mean about subs but they all vibrate to some degree although small it could cause the top one to move. I will find out anyway once I get the second one built. Thanks........:cool:
 
G

gus6464

Audioholic Samurai
Length and width are the only problems I would have but height would be no problem. I get what you mean about subs but they all vibrate to some degree although small it could cause the top one to move. I will find out anyway once I get the second one built. Thanks........:cool:
If height is no problem you should consider doing a passive radiator configuration with one exodus audio 15" or 12" PR.
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
If height is no problem you should consider doing a passive radiator configuration with one exodus audio 15" or 12" PR.
Exactly what does a passive radiator do and how much difference will it make? I see small subs like the sunfire's and earthquake's that have 2 drivers, is one of them passive?
 
G

gus6464

Audioholic Samurai
Exactly what does a passive radiator do and how much difference will it make? I see small subs like the sunfire's and earthquake's that have 2 drivers, is one of them passive?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator_(speaker)

Basically it allows you to tune a smaller enclosure to give the performance of a bigger vented one.

For example all of Def Tech's subs utilize passive radiators. This allows them to be smaller and still have good extension unlike a comparable sealed sub which will require a lot more power and heavy EQ to achieve the same performance.

What are your limitations as far as width and length?
 
G

gus6464

Audioholic Samurai
Here is the Shiva-X in a sealed enclosure and one with 2 passive radiators with 1600g mass on each. The box is the exact same dimensions for both.





Now the green curve is the one with the 2 passive radiators and the pink one is for the sealed enclosure. As you can see the the PR design gives you ~4dB more output at 20Hz than the sealed. But the most important thing to notice is cone excursion at that frequency. With the PR design the Shiva-X is not working as hard at 20Hz while with the sealed design it is almost at xmax. That means that the driver is working a lot harder in a sealed design to give you that output whereas in the PR design it still has room to go lower.

Box dimensions are 24"H x 14"L x 17"D with a 1.5" thick front baffle and .75" sides and rear.

The passive radiators are 2x of these http://aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=40
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
Thanks for the info Gus, I am limited at the moment by budget and don't have the extra to go with the passive. It makes me think I should wait until I can though.
 

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