Glenn Kuras

Glenn Kuras

Full Audioholic
Thanks a ton. I don't see why GIK doesn't put big pictures on their website, you just can't tell what the fabric looks like from those little pictures. Maybe it isn't a concern of most of their customers.

I think I might just order a box (three) of black 242s from GIK to start (this project won't be until Jan, but I want everything there and ready to go before I start... I already have a stack of boxes starting) since they are only 160 bucks (200 shipped?) and plan on putting one behind each M&K S-150 and the third one on the wall before the window. Then keep the AV rack approximately the same distance from the right speaker as my left is from the wall. Then I'll see how things sound from there.

For the back wall it would be nice to try to make something that inserts into one of my oil paintings and then hang that on the wall. See what I mean? Although I don't know the dampening properties of canvas.
Once I get back from Germany, I am going to have a talk with my web person to see if maybe we can put a few links to pictures that are much larger. We do have our pictures pop up bigger but I agree it would help to see them even BIGGER. :)

Glenn
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
i dont know if this has been settled, but it would seem logical that:

a 2" panel flat to the wall < a 2" panel with 2" air gap < a 4" panel flat to the wall < a 4" panel with 2" airgap

the more material, the merrier :)
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Ok, I give....

I will now build a 20'' thick panel with a 25" air-gap....
i dont know if this has been settled, but it would seem logical that:

a 2" panel flat to the wall < a 2" panel with 2" air gap < a 4" panel flat to the wall < a 4" panel with 2" airgap

the more material, the merrier :)
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
Ok, I give....

I will now build a 20'' thick panel with a 25" air-gap....
like you, i had the same idea way back ... i can't remember who i asked, ethan winer or GiK ... but apparently, the air-gap has some pretty steep diminishing returns :) im pretty sure 25" of air gap is past the DR point :)

but a 45" panel isn't! :D
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
So I have a bunch of mineral board, should I fill my 2'' air gaps from the Elites with 2 more inches of it?
like you, i had the same idea way back ... i can't remember who i asked, ethan winer or GiK ... but apparently, the air-gap has some pretty steep diminishing returns :) im pretty sure 25" of air gap is past the DR point :)

but a 45" panel isn't! :D
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
So I have a bunch of mineral board, should I fill my 2'' air gaps from the Elites with 2 more inches of it?
you can absorb lower frequencies if you add that 2 inches - if there's actually an audible difference i wouldn't know.

"but the theory is sound!" - the ghost and the darkness

if it's not hard to do, i would do it.
 
C

cbraver

Audioholic Chief
This stuff is neat to me.

I have a term paper due for a non-major class, 15 pages or something, on the history of 20th century technology ... and I'm considering doing it on acoustic developments...
 
D

D.R. Payne

Audioholic
I think the rule for a porous absorbing material is that it can only absorb as thick as it is, using 1/4 wavelength. ie: 60hz wave is about 19feet long, 19/4=4.75= you would need something nearly 5 feet thick to absorb a 60hz wave. 20" of absorbing material would get you to the 200hz neighborhood, well down into the realm where bass modes become a problem and good to get rid of.
 
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