Will this overload my circuit or line conditioner?

[ivseenbetter]

I’m planning on picking up an H15 to use with all of my AV equipment. However, I’m not sure if plugging everything into that is a smart thing to do. Would I be overloading the circuit if I plug in a Wii, PS3, Xbox 360, Cable Box, DVR, Yammy 663, Emo XPA-3, and an URC MRF-260?

Amps and watts and volts and whatever else that needs to be taken into account when dealing with electricity all seem to be beyond my level of comprehension.

Thanks for the input in advance…most know I am incapable of using the “Thanks” button despite several attempts to try.

 

[TLS Guy]

I’m planning on picking up an H15 to use with all of my AV equipment. However, I’m not sure if plugging everything into that is a smart thing to do. Would I be overloading the circuit if I plug in a Wii, PS3, Xbox 360, Cable Box, DVR, Yammy 663, Emo XPA-3, and an URC MRF-260?

Amps and watts and volts and whatever else that needs to be taken into account when dealing with electricity all seem to be beyond my level of comprehension.

Thanks for the input in advance…most know I am incapable of using the “Thanks” button despite several attempts to try.

You need to add up the max watts of each unit you need to plug in. Also you need to add up the VA rating of each unit. If either addition exceeds the capacity of the H15 you will be overloading it, If neither total exceeds the specification of the H 15 you are OK.

Whenever you use a power conditioner or UPS you have to do these calculations.

You should find these specifications on the label on the unit and or in the manuals.

If the ratings are not stated you will have to contact the manufacturer.

 

[Midcow2]

I’m planning on picking up an H15 to use with all of my AV equipment. However, I’m not sure if plugging everything into that is a smart thing to do. Would I be overloading the circuit if I plug in a Wii, PS3, Xbox 360, Cable Box, DVR, Yammy 663, Emo XPA-3, and an URC MRF-260?

Amps and watts and volts and whatever else that needs to be taken into account when dealing with electricity all seem to be beyond my level of comprehension.

Thanks for the input in advance…most know I am incapable of using the “Thanks” button despite several attempts to try.

Assume this is what you are talking about: http://www.provantage.com/apc-h15~7AMPS032.htm

It is 1.5 KVA = 1500 watts = 120 volts at 12.5 amperes current.
Power = volts times amperes= watts

Wii, PS3, Xbox360, Cable Box , DVR -fairly low power total < 2-3 amps
Yamaha 663 = 665 watts = 5.6 amps
Emotivia XPA-3 = up to 900 watts = 7.5 amps ( it is actually probably not this high)
URC MRF-260 = very low ((9volt transformer) probably around .3 amps.


Just your Yamaha 663 and Emotiva XPA-3 can be 1.5 KVA themselves; but that is with both at maximum power draw, which is probably unlikely.

The way UL (electical Underwriter's Laboratory) rate devices you probably have at least 10% more capacity on your H15 and could probably run everything on one. Also the power specs on the Yammy and Emo are the max and actual run current would probably make your total pull below the limit.

However, it would probably be more prudent in the long run to buy two H15s and run the Emotivia on one and everything else on the other ! One other consideration the H15 looks like it is match in power for the power of a typical single outlet house utility circuit.

 

[TLS Guy]

Assume this is what you are talking about: http://www.provantage.com/apc-h15~7AMPS032.htm

It is 1.5 KVA = 1500 watts = 120 volts at 12.5 amperes current.
Power = volts times amperes= watts

Wii, PS3, Xbox360, Cable Box , DVR -fairly low power total < 2-3 amps
Yamaha 663 = 665 watts = 5.6 amps
Emotivia XPA-3 = up to 900 watts = 7.5 amps ( it is actually probably not this high)
URC MRF-260 = very low ((9volt transformer) probably around .3 amps.


Just your Yamaha 663 and Emotiva XPA-3 can be 1.5 KVA themselves; but that is with both at maximum power draw, which is probably unlikely.

The way UL (electical Underwriter's Laboratory) rate devices you probably have at least 10% more capacity on your H15 and could probably run everything on one. Also the power specs on the Yammy and Emo are the max and actual run current would probably make your total pull below the limit.

However, it would probably be more prudent in the long run to buy two H15s and run the Emotivia on one and everything else on the other ! One other consideration the H15 looks like it is match in power for the power of a typical single outlet house utility circuit.

Do not assume that VA=Watts. In an AC circuit unless the circuit is purely resistive, then the two numbers are different. The watts is the actual power consumed, and the VA rating is the power factor. They are different because
pretty much all audio devices use transformers. The voltage and current is out of phase, and so the current that has to be allowed for is greater than the volts X amps equation would suggest. So you can easily overload a power conditioner or UPS by just adding the total watts consumed. Both the watt and VA ratings have to match. Also that is why you can trip household breakers when you think you should be OK.

This is an area of AC circuit function that is poorly understood by the public.

 

[ivseenbetter]

Do not assume that VA=Watts. In an AC circuit unless the circuit is purely resistive, then the two numbers are different. The watts is the actual power consumed, and the VA rating is the power factor. They are different because
pretty much all audio devices use transformers. The voltage and current is out of phase, and so the current that has to be allowed for is greater than the volts X amps equation would suggest. So you can easily overload a power conditioner or UPS by just adding the total watts consumed. Both the watt and VA ratings have to match. Also that is why you can trip household breakers when you think you should be OK.

This is an area of AC circuit function that is poorly understood by the public.

And it is VERY poorly understood by me as well. The numbers and math are going to take me a bit to ingest...

 

[jvgillow]

Emotiva doesn't want their amps run through a power conditioner; take a look at emotivalounge.com and Lonnie has addressed that issue. It already has appropriate protection/filtering inside.

All that other stuff should be fine though. I run a bunch of equipment through my H15 and at normal movie levels I'm below 50% capacity. Even during really loud parts it won't get up near 100%.

 

[ivseenbetter]

Emotiva doesn't want their amps run through a power conditioner; take a look at emotivalounge.com and Lonnie has addressed that issue. It already has appropriate protection/filtering inside.

All that other stuff should be fine though. I run a bunch of equipment through my H15 and at normal movie levels I'm below 50% capacity. Even during really loud parts it won't get up near 100%.

I will go over there and check it out! That sounds like it takes care of the need for a second H15...I just hope the internal filtering is as good as the H15.

 

[Midcow2]

Was trying to simplify, but .. Get two H15s

Do not assume that VA=Watts. In an AC circuit unless the circuit is purely resistive, then the two numbers are different. The watts is the actual power consumed, and the VA rating is the power factor. They are different because
pretty much all audio devices use transformers. The voltage and current is out of phase, and so the current that has to be allowed for is greater than the volts X amps equation would suggest. So you can easily overload a power conditioner or UPS by just adding the total watts consumed. Both the watt and VA ratings have to match. Also that is why you can trip household breakers when you think you should be OK.

This is an area of AC circuit function that is poorly understood by the public.

You are mostly correct! when volts and current are in phase the impedance is purely resistive ( no capcitance or inductance) then yes VA (Volts Amperes) = watts . If you have a phase angel between the volts and the amps then the actual watts will be less than the VA value, For safety a lot of poepl use a .7 power factor. In other words , multiple the VA rating by .7, so in this case 1.5 KVA becomes only 1050 watts. On visa versa multiple a watts rating by 1.43 to obtain VA

He is a good presentation explaining the differences in pretty easy to understand language: http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/SADE-5TNQYF_R0_EN.pdf

The instantaneous power in the circuit is equal to the product of the applied voltage and current through the circuit. When the voltage and current are of the same polarity they are acting together and taking power from the source. When the polarities are unlike they are acting in opposition and power is being returned to the source. Briefly then, in an ac circuit which contains reactance as well as resistance, the apparent power is reduced by the power returned to the source, so that in such a circuit the net power, or true power, is always less than the apparent power.
====

Bottom line TLS is correct, get two H15s

 

[ivseenbetter]

You are mostly correct! when volts and current are in phase the impedance is purely resistive ( no capcitance or inductance) then yes VA (Volts Amperes) = watts . If you have a phase angel between the volts and the amps then the actual watts will be less than the VA value, For safety a lot of poepl use a .7 power factor. In other words , multiple the VA rating by .7, so in this case 1.5 KVA becomes only 1050 watts. On visa versa multiple a watts rating by 1.43 to obtain VA

He is a good presentation explaining the differences in pretty easy to understand language: http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/SADE-5TNQYF_R0_EN.pdf

The instantaneous power in the circuit is equal to the product of the applied voltage and current through the circuit. When the voltage and current are of the same polarity they are acting together and taking power from the source. When the polarities are unlike they are acting in opposition and power is being returned to the source. Briefly then, in an ac circuit which contains reactance as well as resistance, the apparent power is reduced by the power returned to the source, so that in such a circuit the net power, or true power, is always less than the apparent power.
====

Bottom line TLS is correct, get two H15s

Good stuff. I appreciate the breakout. I checked out the emotivalounge and sure enough they are stating that it is a waste to add this type of protection to their amps. Not sure I am biting on that yet. I definitely need to get smarter on this type of stuff but your info and the links you provided are definitely useful to me.

 

[mtrycrafts]

...The instantaneous power in the circuit ]

Do we really need to be concerned with instantaneous power instead of RMS?
Instantaneous comes and goes rather fast.
Also, doesn't this lead/lag happen in the reactive and capacitive components only and not in a resistor in series with it? So then, wouldn't the power cables and that H15 have minuscule amount of L or C?

 

[Midcow2]

Do we really need to be concerned with instantaneous power instead of RMS?
Instantaneous comes and goes rather fast.
Also, doesn't this lead/lag happen in the reactive and capacitive components only and not in a resistor in series with it? So then, wouldn't the power cables and that H15 have minuscule amount of L or C?

Mtrycrafts,


You are correct RMS is a better overall metric, the example text I pulled was trying to visually demonstrate phase and effective power factor. Thanks for your clarification. By the same token peak-to-peak is an almost useless mesaurement that was an almost ficticious way to state a higher power value that was actually available. Most amps no longer state peak-to-peak , thank goodness!

MidCow2

 

[mtrycrafts]

Mtrycrafts,


You are correct RMS is a better overall metric, the example text I pulled was trying to visually demonstrate phase and effective power factor. Thanks for your clarification. By the same token peak-to-peak is an almost useless mesaurement that was an almost ficticious way to state a higher power value that was actually available. Most amps no longer state peak-to-peak , thank goodness!

MidCow2

Your example was great indeed to show how L and C behaves with power; nice, colorful and large enough to read and see
Certainly got the point across.

 

[mtrycrafts]

I’m planning on picking up an H15 to use with all of my AV equipment. However, I’m not sure if plugging everything into that is a smart thing to do. Would I be overloading the circuit if I plug in a Wii, PS3, Xbox 360, Cable Box, DVR, Yammy 663, Emo XPA-3, and an URC MRF-260?

Amps and watts and volts and whatever else that needs to be taken into account when dealing with electricity all seem to be beyond my level of comprehension.

Thanks for the input in advance…most know I am incapable of using the “Thanks” button despite several attempts to try.

Another consideration or something to think about is which component/s will be at max power at the same exact time to tax the circuit?
Amps and subs usually are dynamic power grabbers and most likely not at the exact same time.

 

[ivseenbetter]

Wow. All I can say is wow. You guys really know a lot about this kind of stuff. Reading what you guys post back and forth about this subject makes it seem like you guys have studied this type of stuff for a long time! I'm going to do my best to figure it out...but I was actually considering foregoing the H15 altogether now. Emotiva states they have all the conditioning built into their amp. My receiver and other items have been running straight off the plugs for a long time now and seem to work just fine. I'm not sure what the line conditioner would actually give me then. Heck, the subwoofers, projector, and screen would all be plugged straight into the wall unless I bought a unit for each one (based on location) and I can't afford to do that. I'm at a loss. Of course, I still appreciate the info and I am trying to work my way through the reading Midcow provided but I'm not seeing an obvious reason for making an H15 purchase. I hope I am not being dumb about this though.

Thanks guys.