Hello. I would like to set up a home theater system to play Blu-Ray movies in 1080p. So I will be buying a big plasma 1080p TV.
However, I also want to have excellent surround sound. I know that I shouldn't buy a HTIB. And I know I need a receiver, a woofer, and a bunch of speakers. However, I don't know which ones to buy.
I would like to spend about 1500, but I am flexible and can spend $500 less or more, if necessary/preferred. There is a guide on this website for spending $1000, but I think that's probably too little money to be applicable to my situation.
Any advice is appreciated. I want to buy the system as soon as possible, so I can be ready for a party I want throw. Thanks.
Okay, I am going to suggest a list of things that hits your upper budget limit. These items will sum up to something that is unheard of in sound quality for the dollars spent. Please look my posting history up so that you can see my perspective and knowledge base in reference to audio engineering/design before reading the actual suggestions I am about to make.
Get these items
Behringer 2030P Pair x 3: $390
Emotiva LPA-1: $499
Behringer DCX2496: $275
Onkyo SR705: $575
Dayton SUB-120 x 2: $310
Total=$2049 USD
The 2030P speakers(
which I have very recently measured) have superior measured performance to most that cost 4-5x as much, and this only pertains to on-axis performance. What really makes them stand out is the off axis performance, which is superior to most speakers, regardless of cost. Superb off axis response is very important: it means that the off axis stray energy that reverberates in the room is similar to on axis direct sound. The human perception system is shown in credible research, to detect a difference between on and off axis response as a primary negative sound quality effect. So the closer on and off axis match, the better. In addition, a similar on axis and off axis response enable timbre to be better heard/perceived, as shown by more credible research in this field.
The 2030P is overall, a rather flat response speaker, without any significant emphasis or de-emphasis across it's bandwidth. This is desirable also - it means you can use a precision DSP device to adjust the curve to one that YOU DO PREFER. Most speakers have substantial colorations built in - and you can not easily get rid of these - and thus you are stuck with the coloration(s).
The 2030P needs to be slightly modified(
things such as making sure air tight seal is in place and a rattling part is secured) to yield better performance even in overall stock condition. Many mass produced speakers have small flaws that can be easily fixed, and the 2030P is no exception. With about 15 minutes of work per speaker, you can apply these fixes as I will specify, if you intend to get the speaker system.
The DCX2496 DSP unit I recommend is not optional - it must be used to allow the precision control of your speaker response to your preference. It also is going to handle the main crossover duties for your subs and main channels - because it has a far more advanced xover system than you will find in a receiver. The DCX will allow you to seamlessly combine the dual subs with the mains as a seemingly single source of sound from each channel.
The LPA-1 amplifier is required, as you have no practical way to feed the pre-outs of the reciever to the DCX for process, then back into the reciever. This just is not possible. In addition, the LPA-1 amplifier has considerable power output and can power low impedances - so you will not likely ever run into an issue where you can not drive your speaker with sufficient power. You can also use other amplifiers - this was names merely because it is one of the best value multi-channel amps currently on the market.
The subs I recommended are known to be the best possible value. If you want to spend a bit more on the subs(about 300 per sub as opposed to 155 per sub), I can recommend an alternative is substantially higher in quality - but will be non-conventional - as are many of my suggestions.
The SR705 receiver I recommended is optional: you can choose any model receiver you so desire that has the require pre-amp outs. I merely name this receiver as an example of one with modern HDMI switching/conversion/upscaling abilities for your video needs.
Note: the cost I quoted does not include cables, adapters, etc; which are always an extra cost.