Need some SCART help

[jpbl68]

The SCART socket on my LCD TV (Goodmans LD1945WD) is so close to the main body of the unit that none of my SCART plugs can reach it. I've checked with the store I purchased it from and they assure me that it is not a design flaw or a problem unique to my set. What I need is a SCART lead with a plug that has almost no plastic insulation on it so it can squeeze into the socket, I think I need a SCART switchbox/extension lead so that I can then plug my existing cables into the new one. The problem is that I can't seem to find one that's thin enough to fit in the socket.

Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bandphan]

are you refering to a db21pin cable?

 

[jpbl68]

re:

Not entirely sure what a db21pin cable is, I've looked at the plugs I've got. Two have 11 pins and two have 20 pins, if that helps.

p.s. sorry for the double post, I wasn't sure which board was more appropriate.

 

[bandphan]

http://www.planetomni.com/CABLE_SCART.shtml

 

[jpbl68]

re:

Thanks for the link. I've come across a lot of those before, the problem is that those SCART plugs are covered in too much plastic to be able to get close enough to the main body of the TV to fit into the socket. Any ideas?

 

[TLS Guy]

The SCART socket on my LCD TV (Goodmans LD1945WD) is so close to the main body of the unit that none of my SCART plugs can reach it. I've checked with the store I purchased it from and they assure me that it is not a design flaw or a problem unique to my set. What I need is a SCART lead with a plug that has almost no plastic insulation on it so it can squeeze into the socket, I think I need a SCART switchbox/extension lead so that I can then plug my existing cables into the new one. The problem is that I can't seem to find one that's thin enough to fit in the socket.

Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

SCART. One more thing to hold against the French! Leave the EEC and join those that reject stupid EEC edicts and standards.

I hate SCART. I have managed to get rid of all my father's. we don't have them in the US. Are there no other connections you can use?

 

[jpbl68]

re:

I have two consoles I'm trying to connect (XBOX original and a PS2), my TV has SCART and RCA (I think that's what it's called, the cable splits into picture, left audio, right audio, coloured white, yellow and red) sockets. At the moment if I want to switch between consoles I have to unplug one of them, if I can sort out this SCART problem then I won't have to. It might not seem like a serious problem but I had the same issue with my old TV. Constantly changing over the cables eventually broke a connection inside the TV. I'm assuming a new SCART lead would be the best solution but there might be others.

p.s. of all the inputs the SCART is the only problematic one: 1 HDMI, 1 PC-RGB, 1 SCART, 1 S-Video, 1 CVBS, 1 Audio, 1 PC Audio

 

[TLS Guy]

I have two consoles I'm trying to connect (XBOX original and a PS2), my TV has SCART and RCA (I think that's what it's called, the cable splits into picture, left audio, right audio, coloured white, yellow and red) sockets. At the moment if I want to switch between consoles I have to unplug one of them, if I can sort out this SCART problem then I won't have to. It might not seem like a serious problem but I had the same issue with my old TV. Constantly changing over the cables eventually broke a connection inside the TV. I'm assuming a new SCART lead would be the best solution but there might be others.

p.s. of all the inputs the SCART is the only problematic one: 1 HDMI, 1 PC-RGB, 1 SCART, 1 S-Video, 1 CVBS, 1 Audio, 1 PC Audio

Use HDMI if one of those boxes has it. Otherwise switch between S-Video and composite video. Avoid SCART! Use the RCA inputs for audio. Do you have two sets? If not you will need a switcher.

Maplin have a line of switchers.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=Audio switcher&source=15&SD=Y

I assume you are in the UK is that correct?

 

[jpbl68]

Yes, I live in the UK. Those switchers look like the best solution to my problem. Some of them look more complicated than they need to be, have you used any of them/would you recommend any of them?

 

[TLS Guy]

Yes, I live in the UK. Those switchers look like the best solution to my problem. Some of them look more complicated than they need to be, have you used any of them/would you recommend any of them?

I live in the US and have for over 30 years, but I grew up in the UK. I'm glad I don't have Frogs and Huns setting my standards, though unfortunately they do affect what happens here, issues like Rhos compliance.

I have not used any of those products, but when I'm over in the UK helping my father with his system I use the Maplin Store at Luton Arches Chatham. They seem to have pretty good gear.

 

[jpbl68]

I'm not ecstatic about our involvement in Europe either. This might be a stupid question, but what's "Rhos compliance"?

 

[TLS Guy]

I'm not ecstatic about our involvement in Europe either. This might be a stupid question, but what's "Rhos compliance"?

Rohs, sorry I got my letters crossed typing too quickly. It is a complex series of EEC regs, that have to do with toxic metals in electronic components. Gear sold in the EEC has to be Rohs compliant and have an Rohs certificate.

The worst is lead free solder. This adds expense, but worst of all gets the fuzzies over time and causes short circuits on electronic boards. There are pot of components that just can't work without the banned elements. The there is a complex process to apply for an exemption to get your certificate. Jobs for the boys! That's what the EEC is all about.

 

[jpbl68]

Sounds like a real headache. Thanks for all the help. I've spent the last week emailing the retailer/manufacturer and they've basically told me that it's my not their problem. You've been a big help, cheers.