help me build my sub enclosure...

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petethekiller

Enthusiast
Long time listener first time caller!!!:D

Well I decided to dive into the fun everyone is having and chose to build a budget minded sub to replace the rather lame one that came with my polk rm-6900 speaker set up. Even more so now that I got a new Onkyo TX-804 on ecost.com for under $400. (if anybody wants a screaming deal on Onkyo, Harman Kardaon, Marantz or dennon, check them out)

Here's my driver that I bought while it was on sale at Dayton for $35 I know there is better but I thought i'd give it a shot.

Dayton SD315-88 12" Shielded DVC Subwoofer

and

Dayton SA240-B 240W Subwoofer Amplifier

Specifications: *Power Handling: 120 watts RMS/180 watts max *VCdia: 2" *Le: 1.4 mH *Impedance: 8 ohms per coil *Re: 3.05 ohms *Frequency range: 30-1,000 Hz *Fs: 25 Hz *SPL: 94.0 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 5.20 cu. ft. *Qms: 4.00 *Qes: .38 *Qts: .35 *Xmax: 7 mm *Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 12-3/8", Cutout Diameter: 10-3/4", Mounting Depth: 6".


I'm looking to build a good HT sub, size does matter but not too much.
I figured a ported box would suit this driver best. Does anybody have any expirience with this driver or maybe encloser design suggestions.

Thanks for you help.

Pete
 
P

petethekiller

Enthusiast
Anybody?

Ive got all my supplies, just need a little direction before I fire up the table saw!

your input will be much appreciated.


Pete
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Did Parts Express have a pdf of a sealed and/or ported cabinet? Check out WinISD (google for it). It is a free download. You plug in the drivers parameters and it will help you model an enclosure.
 
P

petethekiller

Enthusiast
help me, I'm stupid

:D


OK, I downloaded winISD and loaded the supplied parameters and the program keeps saying the parameters are inaccurate and wont let me load the driver. I know there are a few parameters that are not supplied by dayton, is this my problem?

Is the design that is supplied on the dayton the web site my best bet or should I keep trying to use the winisd program for a better design?

by the way, for giggles I put the driver in the polk sub I have and holy cow...
I can get over how much harder this thing hits over the polk driver. The polk box is too small i think....it's a 1.5 cu ft ported box.
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Is the design a ported design like you wanted? There are two versions of WinISD. Which did you install?

If the PE is a ported example then just roll with it.
 
P

petethekiller

Enthusiast
Yeah, they have a ported design I can copy, I was just unsure if those supplied designs were generic and not optimized for this particualr driver...

I downloaded the latest version .6 I think, not the pro version....was this correct?

if you think the dayton blue prints are good, I have no problem following them.

Here's a question though....say I want to change up the overall dimmensions to suit my needs but end up with the same 2.6 cu ft internal dimension and port size, would I get the same results?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Anybody?

Ive got all my supplies, just need a little direction before I fire up the table saw!

your input will be much appreciated.


Pete
Hold your hair on!

I have modeled this driver for you. I modeled it with the two voice coils in parallel. It requires an enclosure just under 5 cu.ft. You need to add the volume of the driver, bracing and amp to the total volume. F3 is 28 Hz. I specified a port with two flared ends, to minimize port noise. You could use two 4 inch ports flared at both ends, each with a length of 23.34 inches. That reduces the vent air velocity to 12 m/sec.

The vent velocity is 22 m/sec with one 4 inch flared vent, which is acceptable. The driver just exceeds xmax by a mm between 30 and 45 Hz. However the driver is fairly efficient, and spl is 105 db in that range. Max spl at other frequencies is 111db. Minimal impedance is 4 ohms. Maximum impedance in the likely operating range is 22 ohms.

Name: SD 315-88
Type: Standard one-way driver
Company: Dayton Speaker Co.
No. of Drivers = 1
Fs = 25 Hz
Qms = 4
Vas = 147.3 liters
Cms = 0.45 mm/N
Mms = 87 g
Rms = 3.5 kg/s
Xmax = 7 mm
Xmech = 10.5 mm
P-Dia = 248 mm
Sd = 480 sq.cm
P-Vd = 0.336 liters
Qes = 0.38
Re = 3.05 ohms
Le = 1.4 mH
Z = 4 ohms
BL = 10.07 Tm
Pe = 120 watts
Qts = 0.35
no = 0.584 %
1-W SPL = 89.81 dB
2.83-V SPL = 94 dB
-----------------------------------------
Box Properties
Name:
Type: Vented Box
Shape: Prism, square (optimum)
Vb = 4.952 cu.ft
Fb = 22.91 Hz
QL = 6.142
F3 = 28.12 Hz
Fill = minimal
No. of Vents = 1
Vent shape = round
Vent ends = two flared
Dv = 4 in
Lv = 10.55 in

There are a number of us on the forum who are glad to assist with your DIY projects. However modeling drivers is a significant amount of work. Please remember that you are getting a free service that vendors such as Madisound quote rightly charge for.

So all of you requesting help with your DIY projects, please give us the courtesy of the chance to reply to your requests as we have time available. Please also carefully prepare your ground by framing your requests as specifically as possible.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Too Small

Since I have been working on this for you, I see things have moved on. A 2.6 cu. ft. ported enclosure with that driver only has an F3 of 38 Hz which is hardly a sub.

Because that driver is dual voice coil the data you quoted was confusing. I had to download the manufacturers pdf file on that driver to model it.
 
P

petethekiller

Enthusiast
thank you TSL

First off, let me start by thanking you for taking the time to model my driver,

now that you have me headed in the right direction, I have a question.

Why are the plans that PE provided so differnt from the ones that your program provided for you? I just want to educate myself a little. A 4.9 cu ft box is a big box, is this my best option or did I make a bad uneducated purchase.

Once again. thank you for you input, believe me..it is very much appreicated.

Pete
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Thank you for your courteous reply.

I model in Bass Box Pro. There do seem to be differences in modeling programs. I have not used WinISD. Box pro is the further development of software by Bullock and White published in Speaker Builder back in the eighties. I have used their software since 1984. I have found it to be reliable. Box Pro and Xover Pro are the most updated versions of the software with that ancestry.

Now there was a disagreement between Box Pro and WinISD concerning xmax issues of a Dayton dirver modeled by myself and Anunaki. My program showed significant issues related to the driver exceeding its mechanical limits. WinISD apparently did not. Without having the driver to test I have no idea which model is correct.

In terms of bass alignment and tuning there should not be disagreement between software. This means F3 enclosure volume and port dimensions.

Now I asked Box Pro to give me the box dimension that has the lowest F3 with minimal ripple. The lowest possible F3 for that driver is 28 Hz. That F3 does not allow for significant reduction in the enclosure volume for a ported design.

It is usually best to model a few drivers before purchase. However that enclosure is not gigantic, and it models to a pretty good sub, especially considering what you paid for the driver.
 
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petethekiller

Enthusiast
Once agian, thank you

Ok, I feel better about my purchase after you last responce TSL, you mentioned 4.9 cu. ft. is not too aful big, tell that to the wife:D:eek::D

Serioulsy though, just for verification...to figure cu ft the correct method is AxBxC/1728 ....correct?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Ok, I feel better about my purchase after you last responce TSL, you mentioned 4.9 cu. ft. is not too aful big, tell that to the wife:D:eek::D

Serioulsy though, just for verification...to figure cu ft the correct method is AxBxC/1728 ....correct?
A tolerant wife is essential! I told you model first then the purchase!

Even my certified architect daughter who is also a certified interior designer, thinks this acceptable. If she says it's OK, then it passes muster on the WAF.

http://mdcarter.smugmug.com/gallery/2424008#127077317

Yes, you are correct about the cu.ft calculation. Height X Width x Depth all in inches divided by 1728 will give you the volume in cu.ft.

I did check my calculations one more time to make sure I did not make a typo on data entry. Everything is correct.
 
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petethekiller

Enthusiast
jus as soon as I get started, i'll be certain to keep you updated with pictures.

again, thank you for your help.

pete
 
W

Wuzme13

Audiophyte
Dayton SD315-88 12" Sub

So did you ever build this Sub? I am about to build this one in the morning same sub same amp.. Do tell your out come...
 

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