need MAJOR help on complex HT room design

M

machman

Audiophyte
Hey folks, I haven't posted here in so long I had to re-register! Anyway, I've done my searching and haven't been able to come up with solid answers to the following questions.

First off, here's the scenerio: I have an unfinished basement space that I've (tried) to attach a picture of:



The room is 28' long, 18' wide on the end that has the door that goes to the upstairs, and 14' wide by the end that has the furnace room on it. The ceilings are all 9'10" high.

The room will be oriented as pictured with the components stacked to the left of the kitchen area as pictured.

This space is about to be converted to an apartment, then in a few years I want to convert it into a multi-use, mainly home theatre, but also have space for fooseball and a card table. Once that conversion is done, this will be the basic layout of the basement that I'm left with.

What I want to do is complete the necessary wiring to accomodate my goals for when I reclaim this space.

This space is totally unfinished at this point with the exception of insulation in the walls and vapour barrier, both which I anticipate tearing out to complete this project. It has a concrete floor with radiant in-floor heating installed (no heat exchanger or pumps yet). It also has a bit of ducting but will only be required for A/C, if at all. In fact I'm considering blocking them for the use of the apartment.

My goals are thus:

  1. spend as little money as possible to achieve the highest possible result (entire renovation, including appliances, flooring, trim, paint, wiring for all power and all AV, and plumbing, EXCLUDING ALL HOME THEATRE COMPONENTS SINCE THIS WILL BE AN APARTMENT IN THE SHORT RUN)
  1. keep as much of the outdoor wind noise out of this space as possible. We often have significant wind where I live and one of my biggest goals is not to prevent noise from going outside, but to prevent noise from coming inside.
  1. isolate as much of the noise from the HT area from the main floor of the house as possible. This is more for the time that the basement will be used as an apartment so we all have our privacy. Our bedrooms are on the second floor, two floors away from this space, so this isn't a huge issue for sleeping kids or anything, just for occupant noise.
  1. leave enough room for relatively easy use of the back door

The basic design of the basement is obviously a walkout with a 50% slope. This means that at the front of the foundation, it's entirely burried in dirt, but at the back it's entirely open with the foundation's concrete roughly following this slope by several steps.

What this means is that I have a stepped pony wall down each side of the foundation. Currently, there is 2X6 insulated and vapour barriered construction on top of that concrete, but there is still space for another set of 2X4s.

My thoughts are to flush up the walls so that the walls are straight up and down with no steps. This will act kind of like a double studded wall sitting on top of the concrete step giving me more thickness and more quiet.

Then I'm thinking of using double 5/8" drywall with a layer of Green Glue in between them, on ALL walls, even the bedroom walls, and the walls going upstairs behind the cabinets in the kitchen, and in the bathroom, and furnace room.

I priced out QuietRock, and although it seems like quite an awesome product, I don't know that it's that much better than Green Glue, and the Green Glue is SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper.

One of the questions I have is about how to silence the ceiling. There's a couple companies in town that spray urethane foam. I am not able to find much on it's ability to dull noise but I do know it's an incredible insulator. I'm thinking about having it sprayed in my floor joists then double hanging 5/8" drywall with Green Glue there as well.

The other thing I'm confused about is that my windows and doors appear to have only enough overhang for one 5/8" sheet of drywall so I'm not sure how to address that.

I'm also wondering about a sub-floor. I'm not sure if I need one, or if it would waste some of the energy from my radiant in-floor heating. I hear it's better for bass response, but I don't know why. Do I need one or can I just carpet right over the concrete with a good underlay?

The other thing I'm wondering about, but certainly not as pressing as the other stuff, is how to orient the room to accomodate my needs. I just can't settle on which end to put my screen in, if I should build a seating platform for a second row, if I have enough room for a second row or if I should just go with bar stools and narrow depth bar type table behind the first row. Don't worry about light when you're making recommendations here. I'm buying black-out blinds to cover that. Hopefully they'll also deaden any unwanted sound reflection from the glass as well.

I've read and compiled all the stuff from the "I wish I'd done this" thread, so I'm not so concerned about what's in there. My main questions about this thread are how to isolate noise as best as possible, on a somewhat limited budget, for the needs of both an apartment, and a multi-use HT Room.

My budget for this stage, EXcluding components, but INcluding everything else from speaker wire, to video cabling, to CAT6, to the multiple circuits, to dimmers, sconces, pot-lights, trim, flooring, plumbing, painting, and finish carpentry is $30,000.

Do you think it can be done? Do you think my goals of quiet will be accomplished? What else can I do to ensure I have a viable home theatre / family room that can be used as an apartment in the meantime?

Thanks in advance for addressing these questions from an almost first time poster!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
majorloser

majorloser

Moderator
You asked for "MAJOR" help, so I started with the picture :)
 
Rickster71

Rickster71

Audioholic Spartan
The other thing I'm confused about is that my windows and doors appear to have only enough overhang for one 5/8" sheet of drywall so I'm not sure how to address that.
I can offer some quick help with this item. The others will take a little thought.
What you need is called 'Extension Jamb'
Any lumber yard will carry it.
It does, basically what the name implies.
It extends the width of the existing door or window jamb.
i.e. Anderson windows made jamb, specific to their windows.

A quick aside if I may.
Double 5/8" rock sounds like a lot of weight to hang from your floor joists.
Maybe try some lighter weight sound deadening, and one layer of rock?

Good Luck,
Rick
 
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B

bpape

Audioholic Chief
Soundproofing in the bottom end simply takes mass. Sorry but lightweight and isolation just don't go together.

I'd recommend using PAC International DC-04 clips to isolate the walls from the joists above. Use RSIC-1 and hat channel on the ceiling for isolation. Double drywall with Green Glue between layers is an excellent isolation strategy.

Just remember that you also have to account for every outlet, light, wall switch, etc. or any other hole you cut in your shell or your isolation scheme goes right out the window.

Bryan
 
M

machman

Audiophyte
Hey majorloser, thanks for posting that pic for me, much appreciated!

Rickster, thanks for the advice on the jamb extension. I didn't know such a thing existed, but a google search of that term turned out a wealth of information. I just needed to know what to look for!

In terms of the weight of double 5/8" from the ceiling, do you think that will be a structural issue? Where does one go to determine if this will actually cause trouble. I do notice that the floors on my main floor have more spring than I'd like, perhaps this would lessen that!?

bpape, thanks for that advice, I'm off to do some searching right now.

Much appreciated folks, I'll be back with more later!
 
Rickster71

Rickster71

Audioholic Spartan
Hi machman welcome to Audioholics.
Below is a link to joist load info.
http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.htm

A few things to keep in mind:
one sheet of 5/8" 4' x 8' weighs 70.4 lbs.

When you measure your floor joists, i.e. a 2" X 8"
will actually measure 1.5" thick X 7.5" wide, due to the kiln drying process.

If your joists are 2 X 10's or bigger I think you'll be ok.
Depends on the span too.
Rick
 
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J

Johnd

Audioholic Samurai
A 2" x 8" measures 1.5" x 7.5" due to modern standards, not the kiln drying process, even though that does generate some shrinkage. Sorry Rickster...just had to. :D

Considering that in modern dwellings most floor loads are spec'd out at 40 psf live load, an additional 2 psf dead load is relatively inconsequential.
 
Rickster71

Rickster71

Audioholic Spartan
A 2" x 8" measures 1.5" x 7.5" due to modern standards, not the kiln drying process, even though that does generate some shrinkage. Sorry Rickster...just had to. :D

Considering that in modern dwellings most floor loads are spec'd out at 40 psf live load, an additional 2 psf dead load is relatively inconsequential.

The OP said his floor was already spongy.
So it doesn't sound like it's up to 'modern dwelling' standards.

His plan was to use a double layer of 5/8" rock; that weighs 4.4 psf, added to an already spongy floor. Double your calculation.:)

I have to stick with my original reason for the nominal size of a board varying from the actual size of the board.
This is due to shrinkage as the board is dried.
That can be looked up using Google or Wikipedia.
 
J

Johnd

Audioholic Samurai
The OP said his floor was already spongy.
So it doesn't sound like it's up to 'modern dwelling' standards.

His plan was to use a double layer of 5/8" rock; that weighs 4.4 psf, added to an already spongy floor. Double your calculation.:)

I have to stick with my original reason for the nominal size of a board varying from the actual size of the board.
This is due to shrinkage as the board is dried.
That can be looked up using Google or Wikipedia.
OK Mr. Science. :p

But it seems clear you are confusing the saturation point of wood (25%) with its' actual dimensional shrinkage, normally about 4-8%. I'm not posing as the corrector here, but you wrote that dimensional lumber shricks 25% due to kiln drying...and that just ain't so[/B]. And I'm not going to go to the trouble of Wikipedia...I already know this stuff.

And my post of 2 psf (2.2 literally) is not inaccurate...as I wrote additional load (one vs. two layers). Unless, of course, you rock w/o adding any weight at all. :p If that's the case, I'd like to know your trick.

Finally, if his floor is already spongy, I'll agree that a load calculation may be preferable. While loads are taken in there totallity, you need to understand that an additional 2.2 psf is not that much weight...that's all. Peace.
 
gullfo

gullfo

Enthusiast
actually dimensional lumber in the US is a combination of planing and shrinking ;)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimensional_lumber

i suggest getting a licensed structural engineer to look at the floor construction to determine what can and cannot be done. ideally, as Bryan pointed out, using RISC and hat channel, or some other combination of isolators, along with 2 layers of 5/8" drywall and GreenGlue is going to give you a very good level of isolation. as Bryan also pointed out, putting holes in the new shell will require a bunch of tactics to seal them and isolate them, or use surface mounted electric, lights, etc where possible.

depending on the construction, you might find a need to add a set of joists in-between the existing ones in order to support the new weight (assuming the new joists sit on load bearing inner walls) and then you can attach the drywall directly. another advantage to room-within-a-room is you can control the wall penetrations much easier and run HVAC, etc between the layers. of course this depends on available ceiling height etc.

adding a "floating floor" can easily create more problems than it solves, and if you already have the radiant heating in place, i'd say just polish the concrete, or use a layer of thin hardwood type floor. use rugs as needed.

once you're ready to put in the home theater, you can plan the acoustic treatments needed for bass trapping, ambiance controls, etc.
 
Rickster71

Rickster71

Audioholic Spartan
OK Mr. Science. :p

But it seems clear you are confusing the saturation point of wood (25%) with its' actual dimensional shrinkage, normally about 4-8%. I'm not posing as the corrector here, but you wrote that dimensional lumber shricks 25% due to kiln drying...and that just ain't so[/B]. And I'm not going to go to the trouble of Wikipedia...I already know this stuff.

And my post of 2 psf (2.2 literally) is not inaccurate...as I wrote additional load (one vs. two layers). Unless, of course, you rock w/o adding any weight at all. :p If that's the case, I'd like to know your trick.

Finally, if his floor is already spongy, I'll agree that a load calculation may be preferable. While loads are taken in there totallity, you need to understand that an additional 2.2 psf is not that much weight...that's all. Peace.
A 4' X 8' sheet of rock = 32 sq. ft.

At 5/8" thick it weighs 70.4 lbs. a sheet.

To get it's weight per sq ft divide 70.4 by 32.

That equals 2.2 lb psf.
We double that, because the OP is using two layers of 5/8

So it's 4.4 lbs. psf. Or what am I missing?

Just tryin to help a brotha out.:D
 
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Rickster71

Rickster71

Audioholic Spartan
Hi Glen,
Where is Old Tappan, NJ ?
Anywhere near me, in Ocean county?
Rick
 
J

Johnd

Audioholic Samurai
A 4' X 8' sheet of rock = 32 sq. ft.

At 5/8" thick it weighs 70.4 lbs. a sheet.

To get it's weight per sq ft divide 70.4 by 32.

That equals 2.2 lb psf.
We double that, because the OP is using two layers of 5/8

So it's 4.4 lbs. psf. Or what am I missing?

Just tryin to help a brotha out.:D
I know you are Rickster, and I'm often misunderstood because of my plainness.

The assumption is: the op is already rocking one layer...so the "additional" would be the second (singular) layer. That's all. Perhaps it's my writing. I often get tangled into this discusions on semantics. :mad:
 
M

machman

Audiophyte
Wow, talk about knowledge! :D

Thanks for the input guys. I measured the joists the other day, they're the 2X12 manufactured ones (OSB capped and bottomed by lumber) spaced 18" for an 18' run.

There's a bit of spring when you walk on the main floor, but I don't have the feeling it's out of the ordinary.

I'm guessing RCIS-1 + channel + 5/8 drywall + GreenGlue +5/8 drywall won't pose a problem in this case.




HOWEVER, I HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM NOW

Started framing yesterday and realized that there is only 79.5" under the main HVAC ducts where I need two doors to open into, one into the utility room and another into the bathroom. By the time I frame it, floor it, and hang drywall, I have 5" too little. Here are the only options I can think of:

1. Try and find a 75" door and have it open into the room like usual. Problems with that are that it'll look kinda stupid b/c the exterior of that wall is 10' tall, and how in the heck do you make a 75" door???
2. pay an HVAC person $$$ to flatten the system out by 5" to have a normal 80" door swing under it. This would be really expensive I'm sure, and I honestly just don't know how they could do it given the layout of the basement.
3. use 80" doors that open out into the room. The problem with this is that I'm not sure if this meets code, and I'm concerned about having an 80" door opening into a ceiling that's only 75" tall. Hello head bump!

Anyone offer insight on today's problem???
 
J

Johnd

Audioholic Samurai
Reroute the ductwork. Period. I would have to have my feet cut off :eek: to fit under a 75" opening.

I don't see outward opening doors being a code problem, but I would check with your local inspector just to be sure.

2x12 16 oc (you sure it's 18?) is a little overspanned at 18'0'', but you should be ok. Anyway, shortening the span isn't really an option, is it? Cheers.
 
M

machman

Audiophyte
HVAC guy is coming today.

I'm so aggravated by this. I can't really continue framing until they're done doing this...
 
B

bpape

Audioholic Chief
I had to 'flatten out' the ducting in other areas of my basement for the same door clearance issues. It can be done but is not inexpensive as usually, all the new duct is custom made pieces.

If you want to do the low door route, you just start with a solid slab door. You'll have to build the jamb, cut the holes for the knob/latch, and hang it with hinges yourself but it can also be done.

Good luck with the HVAC guy.

Bryan
 
M

machman

Audiophyte
Interestingly last weekend I bought some solid core doors for my project. However, after I started framing I began to wonder about my ability to do the job of building jambs and hanging my own doors. I think I'm going to opt for pre-hung ones...

Seems like the whole building a jamb thing is something just outside my skill level.
 
M

machman

Audiophyte
flip flop flip flop, here I am again...

I bought solid pine doors, then decided to go with solid oak. Anyway, I'll figure out how to hang them...

The HVAC guy told me $1,000 would be the bottom end of what it would cost to fix my issue, and that's if there really was a solution to begin with.

So, what I'm doing is sticking with a full size door but having them open out. This way, when you open the door there'll be drywall sloping down from the top of the door jamb to the ceiling of the room which is about 6" shorter than the top of the door.

Not ideal, but as long as you're under 6'5" you'll be okay. Since I'm 6'2" I'm not happy about this, but what can you do...
 
M

machman

Audiophyte
Hey folks,

If anyone's interested, I finished up drywalling this week. all wiring run per the plan above. Channel, Double drywall and greenglue.

Just installing cabinets now...
 
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