Impact Acoustics 6x2 Component Video Matrix Selector (Model# 40697)

[admin]

It seems that HDMI is all the rage these days. Everything has HDMI - projectors, flat panel displays, DVD players, cable & satellite boxes, and don't forget the a/v receiver with HDMI switching. But what about those of us with older technology? I don't know about you, but I enjoy my high-def through good old-fashioned (and CHEAP) component cables! It was time for a video switcher, and I knew that Impact Acoustics would have a solution for me.

Discuss "Impact Acoustics 6x2 Component Video Matrix Selector (Model# 40697)" here. Read the article.

 

[westcott]

I am continually impressed with the products\vendors Audioholics chooses to represent. Impact Acoustics is another fine example of a company that makes a quality product for a reasonable price.

I sold the component switch from IA and bought an HDMI 5x1 switch using the 20% discount provided by Audioholics until the end of this year. It replaced a cheaper switch from another vendor which did not work\support the new HDMI sources I acqured over the holidays.

Kudos to Audioholics and Impact Acoustics for representing\providing quality products to your subscribers. It is a truy invaluable resource that should not be taken for granted.

Happy Holidays!!!

 

[birdonthebeach]

Obviously, I agree with your sentiments. A great company, with great products, always priced right. Cheers!

 

[Ssseth]

Picture quality tests/feedback?

I just read your review. Although it covers the basics and functionality of the switch nicely, there isn't much detail on image quality. When deciding on a HD video switch, this is the most important part to me.

I see you mention that you are sending the signal to a projector, what size screen were you projecting onto and how far back do you sit on average? What is the model number of the Sony projector, I assume it is a 720p model? Did you do any direct comparisons to the original image using still frames or anything to that effect?

I saw in a spec sheet that the video bandwidth loss is supposed to be -3 dB @ 300MHz. Since I'm only running 720p which is in the 30MHz range I believe, I'd be interested to know what the spec on loss is at that frequency. Hopefully much less as I saw a competing product in this price range with only -0.4 dB in the 720p frequency range. What does this equate to in real life performance? I'm not positive, to me screen comparisons would be a more ideal (although much more susceptible to variation between testers) but it is some more information to use when making a purchase/comparison.

I’m really temped to get one, but I’m trying to find a little more detail around image quality before I take the plunge. Unfortunately there aren’t that many real life end user comments on the internet that I could find yet.

I've also found what seems to be the same product (model number, 40697, is the same and the pictures of the unit look the same) except being branded/sold as "Cables to Go". Does anyone know if this is indeed the same unit? I'm 95% sure it is...

One final question, is Impact Acoustics a sponsor or related to Audioholics at all? No offense intended, but it is a little suspicious to see three staff members raving about the company in the same thread one after the next. Hopefully it’s really just because they are that good!

Thanks in advance for any help or comments!

 

[birdonthebeach]

Thanks for the feedback. First off, the cables to go unit is the same product. I believe that is the "storefront" name, but the box will be branded Impact Acoustics. My review sample was shipped from Cables To Go but was branded Impact Acoustics.

Second, Impact Acoustics does advertise on the site, but that is not why we like their products. (I doubt the senior staff at Audioholics would accept advertising from a lousy company/product.) Our findings have been positive with their products - so yes, it is because they are that good.

As for picture quality, I did not notice any decline in quality using the switch. I have an older Sony VPL-VW11HT projector, and there was no "real world" noticeable difference using the product. I do not have the gear necessary to do any kind of bench testing, and as a result that is out of the scope of my reviews.

I hope this helps. I think you will be very satisfied with the product. Let us know what you decide to do and what the results are!

 

[westcott]

I just read your review. Although it covers the basics and functionality of the switch nicely, there isn't much detail on image quality. When deciding on a HD video switch, this is the most important part to me.

I see you mention that you are sending the signal to a projector, what size screen were you projecting onto and how far back do you sit on average? What is the model number of the Sony projector, I assume it is a 720p model? Did you do any direct comparisons to the original image using still frames or anything to that effect?

I thought I would provide my unbiased feedback as I am not afflilitated with IA or Audioholics. My screen size is 100" diagonal and I sit 16ft back. I use a Panasonic AE700u, 720p projector. The only testing I did was recheck the calibration and sharpness test patterns against what I had them set at before the HDMI switch integration. I noticed no signal degradation.

I saw in a spec sheet that the video bandwidth loss is supposed to be -3 dB @ 300MHz. Since I'm only running 720p which is in the 30MHz range I believe, I'd be interested to know what the spec on loss is at that frequency. Hopefully much less as I saw a competing product in this price range with only -0.4 dB in the 720p frequency range. What does this equate to in real life performance? I'm not positive, to me screen comparisons would be a more ideal (although much more susceptible to variation between testers) but it is some more information to use when making a purchase/comparison.

I did not see any appreciable loss in any of the frequency band test patterns provided with my Digital Video Essentials test disc. (the purple and green bar pattern)

I’m really temped to get one, but I’m trying to find a little more detail around image quality before I take the plunge. Unfortunately there aren’t that many real life end user comments on the internet that I could find yet.

I've also found what seems to be the same product (model number, 40697, is the same and the pictures of the unit look the same) except being branded/sold as "Cables to Go". Does anyone know if this is indeed the same unit? I'm 95% sure it is...

One final question, is Impact Acoustics a sponsor or related to Audioholics at all? No offense intended, but it is a little suspicious to see three staff members raving about the company in the same thread one after the next. Hopefully it’s really just because they are that good!

Thanks in advance for any help or comments!

I believe birdonthebeach answered the rest of your questions. I would like to add that video quality has not suffered and when you find an HDMI switch that works with all of your equipment, you will be very happy. I was very disappointed with my first switch so when I got the Impact Acoustics unit up and running, I was extremely impressed. I can even change video on the fly and come right back where I left off without any lock ups.

Don't forget to use the 20% discount link.

http://www.impactacoustics.com/index.asp?engine=ahjune

Happy New Year!!!

 

[Ssseth]

I appreciate your comments!

Wouldn't it be possible to do a quick test by swapping out the original source with the switched source? Just by swapping out cables I mean. For example, have an original image such as a paused DVD (not switched) and then swap out the cables to the switched image to compare quality.

This may seem rudimentary compared to complicated testing solutions (such as measuring dB loss at certain frequencies), but it would give some indication between original and switched output picture quality. I understand if you don't want to do that since this review has already been completed, but for future reviews it would be handy to have.

Sorry if it seems I'm being picky, that isn't my intention. I will be switching to a 50" RPJ 720p and a Front Projector (92" screen) 720p. Considering the sizable investment I've made in my displays I want to ensure I don't cheap out on a switch and degrade my visuals.

The main reason I'm asking all this is because there are other products out there well below (mostly passive or mechanical), at and above this price range. Like any consumer I want to ensure I'm getting a good bang for the buck without having to over spend or under spend and ending up with a piece of junk. For example, I'm trying to determine how this would compare to a switch that is three times as much money, such as a Zektor switch, or how would it compare to a similarly priced VideoStorm switch, etc. I'm not asking you to answer those questions; I was just hoping I could find more details on this model so I could help reach that decision myself.

I am still leaning towards this switch as it does seem to have a good price/performance ratio and seems to be well constructed. At the end of the day it is real world performance that matters to me, not just a theoretical number that makes one product better than the other.

Thanks again.

Edit:I posted the above in response to birdonthebeach's reply. I hadn't seen the one above from westcott yet. Thanks for the information on the test patterns, that is definitely good to know! I am looking into the component switch at this time though, not the HDMI one. I have structured wiring in place for component only to the projector, unfortunately no HDMI/DVI.

 

[Ssseth]

Well, I just ordered the switch. I have had enough looking around and double guessing myself (I've been looking into this for 3 or 4 days for hours on end now).

I think this will fit the bill. I should have mentioned I'm pushing out the component signal to the projector over about 50-60 feet or so (in wall structured wiring, will be running over quad shielded RG6). I think the length of the run is one of the main reasons I am so worried about the quality of the actual switch. That and the image will be displayed on such a large screen. I guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed...

I found a really good deal on it (new) for well less that the MSRP (about 40% less) so it was too hard not to bite on it for that good of a deal.

I'll try and remember to post back after I receive it to let you know how it goes! Thanks for your help.

 

[birdonthebeach]

Let us know. I will be anxious to hear your "review!"

 

[GamingDaemon]

Hello All,

I just bought the 40697 6x2 Component Matrix Video Switch. I really like it, but I do have a number of problems with it. I have two inputs, my Comcast HD DVR with component and TOSLink cables, and my XBOX 360 with component and TOSLink cables. I have one output to my Samsung 50" plasma and my Logitech Z5500 speakers system.

Here are the problems I am experiencing:

#1) The component seems to get into a hung position. I cannot turn it off, switch to a different input, or change the mode. It is completely unresponsive to the remote and to manual switching. It seems to happen randomly. This is exremely annoying. Theo nly way to reset the component is to unplug the power from the back and plug it back in. It is not from heat. The only other factor is that it is about 2 feet above my subwoofer which does not have magnetic shielding. Logitech recommends that you keep the subwoofer 2 feet away from monitors or TVs, but it never mentioned components like a switcher.

#2) The remote only seems to work from more than 6' away. I used it to program my universal remote, and I have to be more than 6' away with that remote as well.

#3) To switch inputs using my universal remote, I had to create a macro that switches to input #6 (which I am not using), waits 1 second, and then switches to the desired input. This is really frustrating. If I don't do this, I can end up in the situation described by #1.

Anyone have any ideas on why it may be acting this way?

Thanks in advance.

 

[GamingDaemon]

Checked the subwoofer angle really quickly (turned it off), and was able to reproduce the same behavior. Further, it only "sticks" on an active input. I can switch between inputs that are not active (don't have any cables attached) endlessly.

 

[birdonthebeach]

I did not experience any of the problems you describe, and don't know what to tell you. It sure sounds like you have a defective unit. For example, I had no trouble with the remote control up close, and indeed programmed an IR blaster connected to my Harmony remote setup, also without problems. I would return the unit for a new one.

Sorry to hear of the problems, and I am surprised. Please keep us posted on your progress...

 

[GamingDaemon]

I did not experience any of the problems you describe, and don't know what to tell you. It sure sounds like you have a defective unit. For example, I had no trouble with the remote control up close, and indeed programmed an IR blaster connected to my Harmony remote setup, also without problems. I would return the unit for a new one.

Sorry to hear of the problems, and I am surprised. Please keep us posted on your progress...

Thank you Birdonthebeach. I can seem to get it to work (for longer periods of time anyway) as long as I switch to the #6 input (or any non-active input), delay 1.0 seconds, and then switch to the desired input.

But what you say about it being defective greatly worries me, as I am trying to find a solution quickly (I have guests coming in to town and I wantt he system to be ready for them). RMA-ing this may have a long turnaround time.

What does everyone think about the 4-INPUT COMPONENT VIDEO SELECTOR SWITCH from cables-to-go (same company I know as Impact Acoustics, and I am not allowed yet to insert a link).

It uses coax digital inputs rather than TOSLink, but I could get converters for my XBOX 360 and my Comcast box.

 

[GamingDaemon]

I also found this device: Audio Authority 1154B. It is much more money, but seems like a much better product. Has anyone used this product before?

TIA...