Velodyne DD-12, HSU VTF-3 HO, SVS PB13-Ultra, Def Tech Trinity

[AcuDefTechGuy]

If you want a real sub I suggest you quit looking at all those toys you are posting about and get a real driver and build a sub or hire someone to. Now, don't get me wrong - all those subs you are posting about are great subs, but if you want real output at 10Hz and basically zero distortion look into the 18" LMS-Ultra Driver (here are measurements). This driver put in the proper cabinet makes every single other subwoofer on your list look like a little girls toy.

If you really want a serious serious woofer that is big, heavy and might be able to crack your foundation get this one no questions. Also, if you do I am stopping buy to have my innards shaken .

I wish I were that knowledgeable & handy/crafty of speakers & subs!

If I were, I would have built my entire speaker system and be so proud of it.

So would this home-build subwoofer be open ported or closed design?

 

[avaserfi]

Hey Jamo boy; quit laughing at our little store bought girl subs....

Hah, you don't know what I have sitting in my bedroom do you . When I am done each one (there will be two) will do about 110dB at 20Hz with no audible distortion and more accurately than that "little" servo of yours . They are 12" Infinity Kappa VQ subs tuned in low Q - monsters more output and less distortion than a Velodyne DD-15 in the proper enclosure so hah!

I wish I were that knowledgeable & handy/crafty of speakers & subs!

If I were, I would have built my entire speaker system and be so proud of it.

So would this home-build subwoofer be open ported or closed design?

If you were going to be building that monster I would recommend using passive radiators. That monster will produce tons of air flow through a port and it would be easier to reduce all noise by designing a proper passive system. You really should do it, I am sure there are some forum members who will model and design everything for you *hint, hint.*

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Hey Jamo boy; quit laughing at our little store bought girl subs....

At least the Trinity girl subs wear panty hose.

So a Do-It-Yourself Subs could be more accurate & produce lower, deeper, & louder bass than all these commercial subs from Linn, Revel, JL, Epik, DefTech, SVS, Velodyne, etc.

But is the audible difference very significant?

Tom Nousaine was saying that the Epik Conquest produced very loud & accurate bass @ 10Hz. It even best the $15,000 Velodyne DD-1812.

 

[annunaki]

That LMS driver would probably require 3 passive radiators???

Doesn't the 15" offer something around 38mm of linear one-way excursion or something? Think about how much air that thing displaces .

That is 3" of clean low to inaudible distortion on a 15" or 18" driver!!!

 

[avaserfi]

At least the Trinity girl subs wear panty hose.

So a Do-It-Yourself Subs could be more accurate & produce lower, deeper, & louder bass than all these commercial subs from Linn, Revel, JL, Epik, DefTech, SVS, Velodyne, etc.

But is the audible difference very significant?

Tom Nousaine was saying that the Epik Conquest produced very loud & accurate bass @ 10Hz. It even best the $15,000 Velodyne DD-1812.

A properly done DIY sub with the spoken of drivers will easily outperform all listed commercial subs and probably embarrass them.

As far as distortion goes I don't think there will be audible differences, but you will have huge amounts of headroom plus it will be way cooler .

Just do it!

That LMS driver would probably require 3 passive radiators? Doesn't the 15" offer someting around 38mm of linear one-way excursion or something? Think about how much air that thing displaces.

Fortunately, Audiopulse makes a pretty high quality passive that would probably work with 1-2, but they cost about $400 after the name change.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

If you were going to be building that monster I would recommend using passive radiators. That monster will produce tons of air flow through a port and it would be easier to reduce all noise by designing a proper passive system. You really should do it, I am sure there are some forum members who will model and design everything for you *hint, hint.*

Thanks for the offer.

I'm just not that brave.

You are the Speaker Master!

 

[ParadigmDawg]

I know exactly what you have in your bedroom and your Mom would not be proud. I mean the magazines were one thing but a blow-up doll with a gotee?

You know once you get your sub hammered out that you are building me one next...correct?

Hah, you don't know what I have sitting in my bedroom do you . .*

 

[avaserfi]

I know exactly what you have in your bedroom and your Mom would not be proud. I mean the magazines were one thing but a blow-up doll with a gotee?

Shhh!!! I don't wanna get grounded .

You know once you get your sub hammered out that you are building me one next...correct?

Thats cool especially since I will be back in Texas soon enough, but in the name of keeping this on topic it has to be either the LMS or TC2000 and I must take complete measurements .

 

[Warpdrv]

That LMS driver would probably require 3 passive radiators???

Doesn't the 15" offer something around 38mm of linear one-way excursion or something? Think about how much air that thing displaces .

That is 3" of clean low to inaudible distortion on a 15" or 18" driver!!!

For Low tuning purposes, the displacement that those drivers produce would requires at least 2 - Passives of the same size...

If I wanted to tune my subs low, I was going to have to run 2 18" Passives for each of my 15" TC-2K's, for the extreme excursion that tuning low will preduce.

A one to one is do-able for a 20hz tune..

The roll off is more dramatic with a PR setup... This has been debated over and over again... and tested as well.... One would get into a point of diminishing returns when the PR's are priced as much as a driver at that point.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/1820-llt-explained.html

 

[Warpdrv]

Also as far as port noise, you can design and build around such problems...

My 15" drivers will be getting a 27" long 6" diameter port with 1.5" Flare on both ends... Port noise should be a non issue...
Tuned to 14.5hz or 15hz depending on how thing go with the build...
My box models out to 118-119db at 20hz... with a low Q.
If you had the room, you could build tall like a sonotube and even incorporate a 8" port ...

The LMS drivers are a different animal and prefer a small sealed or passive radiator design...

 

[Warpdrv]

adeftechguy...

If you are not all that handy, you could still have somone make a cabinet for whatever driver you would choose, just hand him the plans and let him go to work... heck you could even call eD and they will build you a box, out of MDF and you could have it laminated by a local guy... Or even a body shop could paint it Piano black to match your Deftechs

I bet you would still be far ahead of what you could buy commercial...

 

[Gimpy Ric]

Emotiva Subs

Emotiva DRS-1
Subwoofer/Amplifier System
(Emotiva Digital Reference Sub-1)
$999.00 set

Drivers

* 2) 12” woofers
* 2) Critically damped sealed sub-woofer enclosures with double walled baffles and extensive internal bracing
* Composite fiber reinforced cones for light weight, rigid and low resonance
* Asymmetrical compressed foam surround to reduce edge resonance
* Proprietary high X-Max motor structure with patented voice coil cooling
* Flat progressive rate spider with sub-structure venting
* High temperature aluminum former
* Precision cast aluminum frame

DSA-1 amplifier

* Super efficient 600 wrms/ 800 watt peak class D amplifier stage
* 24 Bit DSP front end with digital based dynamics processing
* Proprietary EMOQ Auto Room correction
* Dual Mode operation (Movie and Music)
* Digital variable low pass crossover with selectable 12 or 24db/octave slopes
* Digital variable “True Phase” control (0-360)
* Manual/ Auto sensing / 12 volt trigger
* Movie mode trigger

Additional Notes

* Calibration Microphone included
* Milled terminal cup with integrated milled aluminum plate
* 6mm milled aluminum front baffle plate
* Magnetically mounted low diffraction grill
* Non-reflective black satin lacquer finish
* Frequency response: 20-200hz +/-2db

Available January 08

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

adeftechguy...

If you are not all that handy, you could still have somone make a cabinet for whatever driver you would choose, just hand him the plans and let him go to work... heck you could even call eD and they will build you a box, out of MDF and you could have it laminated by a local guy... Or even a body shop could paint it Piano black to match your Deftechs

I bet you would still be far ahead of what you could buy commercial...

I almost bought the Trinity for $2K, but backed out the very last minute.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Wussy............

I almost bought the Trinity for $2K, but backed out the very last minute.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Wussy............

Yes, whimpy.
I deserve a girly sub, don't I?

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Indeed you do...

Yes, whimpy.
I deserve a girly sub, don't I?

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Indeed you do...

So would you still consider the Epik Conquest a girly sub?

 

[ringbearer3791]

ok, i'm in

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but as it seems to have expanded into a discussion of DIY subs already i'll go ahead and ask.

I've been considering getting a new sub for a little while yet and have been leaning towards the ultra-13 but discussion about building one myself has caught my attention. The prospect of building an enclosure and all of the other necessaries is exciting.

my question then is this: If i want clean, dynamic sound down to the high teens with plenty of punch as well, what's the best driver, amplifier, enclosure specs, etc to get this done? Are there enclosure specs available or would i need to design my own?

thanks.

 

[Warpdrv]

Hey ringbearer... I guess it all comes down to how involved you want this to be, and how much you want to spend... as well as how large you want your box to be... sealed or ported... If you want to get down to the mid teens and can handle a large box... I would say ported, and tuned low.


There are some really phenomenal drivers out there to be had, and the prices are going up, but easily you can get a fantastic driver for under $500.00, and if you have the tools you can glue up your own box. You can do sonotubes... or box subwoofers....

Otherwise, Parts express has some DIY kits available, that give you everything you need and you just assemble it... http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&CAT_ID=48&ObjectGroup_ID=536

Whats your flavor...? Sealed, Ported, Large or Small...?


BTW This thread is over, as DefTechGuy bought his sub already... the wicked Trinity.. !!

 

[ringbearer3791]

thanks

Thanks for the links! size isn't really a problem for me unless we start talking about something the size of a refrigerator so i'm enclined to go ported or with an active/passive design.

kits seem pretty easily done, and they're certainly economical. i also like the idea of fabricating the entire thing myself, the trick there being designing an enclosure that will let me maximize the capabilities of whichever driver i decide to go with. is there good software out there that will help you design an enclosure given the specs for a driver?

thanks again.