Please Help with $5000 Audio Set-up

[WmAx]

Thanks sooo much for knocking some sense into me! Maybe if I was buying $100,000 speakers I should spend that on cables!! I just get sooo sidetracked when its DIY, as I think im getting a bargain.

The wire offers no special advantage, regardless if the speakers cost $10 or $1,000,000.00. The only case where wire can matter as to audibility is if it is poorly designed to the point where it can cause audible frequency response deviation(s). Using 20AWG for speaker wire would be an example; where series resistance would be increaed to extremely high values.

Now I did end up deciding to go with the 804s, I really want that soundstage and my parents will be getting them for me as a gift, so I just saved myself a bit, and I'm getting better speakers.

Since they will be free to you, then I suppose it does not matter now. But you still need to cut LF to the 804 and use your stereo DIY subs for best sound quality and dynamic range. DCX2496 will still be critical. You should consider buying an extra set of the tweeters and doing as I recommended with the CM7 tweeters, if you really want the best soundstage.

I'm really liking the look of the Parasound Halo JC 2 / A 21 . The only thing that concerns me is how I will power my subwoofers. Will I just use the outs on the DCX as a bass output?

You configure two of the DCX's output channels to have low pass crossovers(to send only bass) to send to the EP2500 bass amplifier. You configure the two main speaker outputs from the DCX to have high pass crossovers set to the same frequency and slope rate/type as the bass output ones.

The Halo J2 is a $4000 pre-amp, I believe. You would do far better to put more money into better speakers. If you use the money that would have bought the 804 speakers and combine it with the Halo pre-amp money, you will have about enough to purchase a used pair of B&W Nautilus 802 speakers. A far better speaker than the 804 - as the 802N has inert enclosure systems that produce absolutely no timbre distortion.

-Chris

 

[whubbard]

Yeah, I completly agree on everything you just said.
What do you think on my idea of going straight from the source to the DCX?

If you think its a bad idea, what do you recommend for $2500 for a pre/pro and amp for the 804s. (Parasound P3/A21?)

If you think its a good idea, what do you recommend for $2500 for an amp?

Do you have any information on good DIY panels, because I couldn't really care about the look of the Ready Acoustic panels.

p.s. If you think the emotivas will power the 804s fine...tell me!! I wan't to save as much as I can. Then the rest can go into CABLES!!....just kidding around. I'm going to spend all the spare cash on the rear tweeters and the panels. (and then the rest of the cash can go in my bank account...and there is nothing bad about that!)

 

[WmAx]

The only other thing I'm thinking is that I wouldn't mind spending $2500 on a really good amp and then switching the interconnect manually. (I'd connect the source to the DCX for correction first) Is there any downside to doing this? I mean...hell, if it means I get better sound, I'll deal with the 30 second change.

I like the emotiva, but its only 100W and I really want to make sure I give the 804s enough power.

What is a 'really good amp'? A pretty amplifier? Because a superbly performing amplifier with high power and transparent amplification can be had for much less than $2500.00. The Emotiva RPA-1 is 200/channel into 8 ohms or 350/channel into 4 ohms. It should be sufficient power for most applications. You can get equal performance for even cheaper(nearly 50 percent savings) if you will buy used gear. You do need a pre-amplifier to change sources and control volume. Emotiva also has reasonable priced pre-amplifiers. No reason to waste money on exotic hardware that would be better spent investing in even better speakers instead.

-Chris

 

[whubbard]

Totally agree that there is no reason to waste money on exotic hardware (Thanks again for the cable help)

I was pretty sure the RPA was 100 per channel, but I could be wrong. I've just heard the 100W is not enough for the 804s.
EDIT: Yep I was wrong!

So where would I find the Tweeters that match the 804s?

 

[WmAx]

Totally agree that there is no reason to waste money on exotic hardware (Thanks again for the cable help)

I was pretty sure the RPA was 100 per channel, but I could be wrong. I've just heard the 100W is not enough for the 804s.
EDIT: Yep I was wrong!

So where would I find the Tweeters that match the 804s?

B&W tech support will sell you drivers/parts for any speaker system. Just call them up with your credit card info and they will ship the desired tweeters to you. Please get something like the small Emotiva BPA1 amplifier for the tweeters. It is all that is needed. Use the spare two DCX outputs you will have left to drive the tweeter amplifier and to perform crossover duties.

-Chris

 

[whubbard]

Gotcha. Sounds Perfect. Just saved a ton..sweet.

Don't worry, I won't get anything put the BPA-1...Looks like i'll need another cleanbox though

Now Will I need to build enclosures for the Tweeters? I mean I have my Rega P2 on top of my Cabinet rack which I'm custom building, should I add some place to put the tweeters in?

Also, I already have a Monster Power 2600. Is there any reason to get the Panamax 5400-PM...I mean will it really help?

Also, Do you know where I can get some good DIY info on the sound panels?

 

[Seth=L]

Gotcha. Sounds Perfect. Just saved a ton..sweet.

Don't worry, I won't get anything put the BPA-1...wont even dare question you on this one.

Now Will I need to build enclosures for the Tweeters? I mean I have my Rega P2 on top of my Cabinet rack which I'm custom building, should I add some place to put the tweeters in?

Also, I already have a Monster Power 2600. Is there any reason to get the Panamax 5400-PM...I mean will it really help?

Also, Do you know where I can get some good DIY info on the sound panels?

The RPA-1 should drive those B&Ws into oblivion and beyond. The benchtests that Audioholics did here where very impressive.

I don't see any reason why you would need to change the power conditioner. Unless your power is super dirty you don't really need one at all.

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/amplifiers/emotiva-rpa-1-amplifier/

 

[whubbard]

What do you all think of John Risch's Panels?

Also, I will need another cleanbox for those tweeters right?

And lastly, What exactly will I do with the tweeters? Will B&W send them in the odd tube shaped things that they are in on the 804s. Will I need to build a box, or just mount them?

 

[WmAx]

Now Will I need to build enclosures for the Tweeters? I mean I have my Rega P2 on top of my Cabinet rack which I'm custom building, should I add some place to put the tweeters in?

You will need to build something to mount the tweeters to or in on the speakers.

Also, I already have a Monster Power 2600. Is there any reason to get the Panamax 5400-PM...I mean will it really help?

No reason to get something else unless your Monster unit is damaged.

Also, Do you know where I can get some good DIY info on the sound panels?
What do you all think of John Risch's Panels?

Actually, it's very easy to build panels if you want to go that route. Go to www.readyacoustics.com and buy some blank ($30 each) Chamelon metal panel frames. Get some $1/yard discount fabric from Wal-Mart's bargain bin. Buy some 8# mineral board($35-$40 for 6 units of 2" x 24" x 48" ; it takes two per Chamelon panel) from a local commercial/industrial insulation contractor. Assemble. Just make sure the fabric you choose does not reflect treble. You can save $30-$40 off of each panel if you want to make your own frames. Or you can pay $130 for finished/assembled Chamelon panels. I have some finished Chamelons and they look very good. The fabric covering used on them also looks nice - it's an expensive microfibre suede-type material like you see on better quality furniture(not the cheap looking microfibre).

Also, I will need another cleanbox for those tweeters right?

Yes. Or you can use in line RCA attenuators. Either way will work fine. The attenuators are cheaper to use.

And lastly, What exactly will I do with the tweeters? Will B&W send them in the odd tube shaped things that they are in on the 804s. Will I need to build a box, or just mount them?

I don't know if the tweeters come with the tubes; probably not. You will have to check with B&W. But you just need some way to easily mount the tweeters to the rear of the speaker cabinets. You could even build a small stand/frame not attached to the speaker; but for the single purpose of holding up the tweeters. It could be hidden behind the speaker cabinets easily enough.

-Chris

 

[whubbard]

Okay, I've got most of it now...

So I don't even need an enclosure for the tweeters? Just a stand?
...I'm a bit confused, sorry.

 

[WmAx]

Okay, I've got most of it now...

So I don't even need an enclosure for the tweeters? Just a stand?
...I'm a bit confused, sorry.

Before, we were discussing the CM7. the CM7 has the tweeter mounted in the cabinet, and the cabinet has a flat top with lots of room. It would have been practical to build a matching tweeter cab to sit on top of this. But the 804 you now intend on purchasing has no place to set a tweeter on top. On top of that, you will probably need to buy the tweeter and tweeter pod/enclosure for the 804 as a unit; I suspect that pod is a tuned damping chamber for the tweeter driver. You can do one of two things in this case: (1) Use a small stand to hold the entire tweeter behind the cabinet. (2) Make some some small offset spacers to mount the new tweeter over the original tweeter, but in reversed position(pointing driver to the back). But because of possible interference/cancellation issues with the number 2 option(related to the tiny profile of the 804 tweeter pod and wavelength distance in air), I highly recommend the number 1 option. And make the stand so the tweeter is hidden behind the cabinet - above the back edge.

-Chris

 

[whubbard]

Thanks a lot!