scan speak, peerless design???

B

bdubs767

Enthusiast
Okay guys I'm a newbie to the HT thing. I am converting from the car audio; rather have a nice system in my house now.

Today I just ordered a Denon 2808ci, looks like a great unit and I hope it is too. For a source Im planning on using my Mac Laptop that goes to my M-audio Solo, which also I use as an RTA, then run the solo coaxil digi to the Denon. The other two/three sources will be an LCD TV when I get one, xbox360, and maybe a blue ray player. For speakers I plan to use the pre outs to go to a seperate amp for the Fronts only, right now I have an audiosource amp 7t which is so so, Ill upgrade it down the road. For the rest of my speakers in the 7.1 Ill just use the Denon to power them. For the subwoofer I have a Aura NS15 ported w/ a Bash 500watt Plate amp running it. For the fronts I plan to make some high end DIY towers and for the rest I just plan to buy some mid range pre made speakers. Im to lazy to build them all lol. Plus when I listen to music Ill be listening to it in 2.1 so they rest are only for movies, tv, video games.

Heres my dilemma though what driver to use for the fronts? Right now the drivers I have next to me as I type are...
Hiq OWII-FS
Scan Speak d3004/6600
Scan Speak 18s Rev
Scan Speak 15w Rev
I have a passive network designed by madi through the LEAP for the 6600 and 18s, it sounds great but I think it can be better, as the design wasnt done w/ the baffle. So Im looking to re do to get it optimal. For the passive this time I will have it once again designed on Leap but with the measurements taken from the baffle. I just dont know what drivers I should use and what would give me optimal results to mesh well with the subwoofer.

I've thought about adding another 18s and doing a MTM, and I've also thought about doing a 6600, 15w, 18s three way, but it would prob be better to use a larger driver for the midbass, so Ive thought about adding a 10" woofer. Yet I also have thought about just re designing the current design I have and tweaking the xover to get optimal performance. Thats also led me to thinking about just selling all the drivers and going for an all peerless exclusive set up w/ HS tweet, 5.5" exclusive, and (2) 8" exclusive per tower, then use the extra cash from a non rev set up to spend more money on better box/ passive xover (even though I dont beleive that the super expensive components will make a difference).

So pretty much I'm lost within my own thoughts. SOME PLEASE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION HERE.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
For the fronts I plan to make some high end DIY towers... Heres my dilemma though what driver to use for the fronts? Right now the drivers I have next to me as I type are...

Hiq OWII-FS
Scan Speak d3004/6600
Scan Speak 18s Rev
Scan Speak 15w Rev

I have a passive network designed by madi through the LEAP for the 6600 and 18s, it sounds great but I think it can be better, as the design wasnt done w/ the baffle. So Im looking to re do to get it optimal. For the passive this time I will have it once again designed on Leap but with the measurements taken from the baffle. I just dont know what drivers I should use and what would give me optimal results to mesh well with the subwoofer.

...I've thought about adding another 18s and doing a MTM, and I've also thought about doing a 6600, 15w, 18s three way, but it would prob be better to use a larger driver for the midbass, so Ive thought about adding a 10" woofer.
You've got some first rate drivers and it would be a shame to use anything but a first rate crossover for them. It seems you understand quite a bit about speaker design, but you don't have the tools or experience to design your own crossover. Nothing wrong with that, just ask for help. You already get the concept of mounting the speakers in the cabinet first before dealing with a crossover. This would select the baffle width and narrow down the choices for a baffle step compensation circuit that will be part of the crossover network.

I would get another 15W Revelator, combine it with the Hiquphon OWII ¾" tweeter in an MTM tower. With the right crossover, you could have transparent clear sounding midrange and excellent off-axis dispersion. I've never heard the 6600 tweeter and it certainly seems good on paper, but the Hiquophon ¾" tweeter will do better at off-axis dispersion than any 1" tweeter no matter how good it may be.

Both those tweeters are much more sensitive than one of either those woofers. If you use two woofers in an MTM, you won't have to pad down the tweeter response so much. Too much use of resistors to lower the response of tweeters always runs the risk of sucking the life out their sound.

Depending on your cabinet design, you might get good bass response as low as 35-40 Hz. As a guess, two 15W drivers would do well in a vented cabinet tuned somewhere around 30-45 Hz - I don't think you need larger woofers. Your subwoofer could fill in below that.

The reason I would rather use the 15W over the 18s is the high frequency response of those drivers. Look at the spec sheets from Madisound for the 18s and the 15W. (did I pick the correct drivers?) With the 15W woofers your speakers will sound smoother across the upper midrange. About 2 kHz and higher, the 18s goes into break up mode. It could sound harsh and glaring unless those peaks are filtered out enough so you don't hear them. I don't think the LEAP designed crossover from Madisound will suppress that break up noise enough. And either of your tweeters will have trouble being crossed over low enough to avoid the 2+ kHz noise. The 15W has also has elevated response at 2 kHz and higher, but it looks much better at those freqs than the 18s driver. An experienced crossover designer should be able to filter those properly.

If you click on the link for the SongTower QWT speakers in my signature line below, you can see a very similar design using the same tweeter and less expensive SEAS CA15 woofers. If you email Dennis Murphy, the designer of those speakers, (go to http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=main.html and look for his email link on that page), he just might be interested in designing a crossover for that combination of drivers. He often likes doing this kind of work for DIY builders who don't have measuring and design tools of their own. Contact him and find out if he is interested and what you would have to send him (drivers, baffle, or cabinet) so he could do his own measurements and design a crossover that will be much better than anything you could buy.
 
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