35 year old Infinities

[Squishman]

My RS-3000’s sound good, but they are 35 (give or take) years old, so I imagine it would not be a heinous plan to eventually get in there and replace the caps and resistors. But the way they jam the crossovers into the cup, you’d have to tear it apart to get at them. It's all glued. What do you think? Worthwhile project? Like I say, they sound good, but would there be a noticeable improvement if I did the project?

The other option is to use the Radio Shack set up that I have in the room. Just kidding, that’s a knickknack and it’s not even hooked up.

 

[highfigh]

My RS-3000’s sound good, but they are 35 (give or take) years old, so I imagine it would not be a heinous plan to eventually get in there and replace the caps and resistors. But the way they jam the crossovers into the cup, you’d have to tear it apart to get at them. It's all glued. What do you think? Worthwhile project? Like I say, they sound good, but would there be a noticeable improvement if I did the project?

The other option is to use the Radio Shack set up that I have in the room. Just kidding, that’s a knickknack and it’s not even hooked up.

Why would the resistors need to be changed? Can you measure the caps?

 

[Squishman]

Why would the resistors need to be changed? Can you measure the caps?

Just that if I did change caps, may as well do resistors. But heck, if you think it doesn't need it, then it's a moot point.

 

[highfigh]

Just that if I did change caps, may as well do resistors. But heck, if you think it doesn't need it, then it's a moot point.

If I had doubts about the crossovers, I would use REW and look for anomalies in the response at the crossover region, in case they have drifted. You could also buy an LCR meter- the cheap ones work pretty well. Not lab grade, but it would tell you how far from spec the caps have gone (if they have).

 

[Squishman]

I actually thought it'd be a super easy project until I saw that crossover all compacted like that. When I eventually do it, I could mount the caps inside the cabinet, maybe glued to the floor or possibly on the backside of the small board.

 

[TLS Guy]

I actually thought it'd be a super easy project until I saw that crossover all compacted like that. When I eventually do it, I could mount the caps inside the cabinet, maybe glued to the floor or possibly on the backside of the small board.

Don't waste time on money on that. Your crossovers are fine. If you carry out your plan you will do far more harm than good. This rebuilding crossovers is largely audiophoolery. Crossovers I built nearly fifty years ago are just fine. The only exception is crossovers with large value electrolytic capacitors. However speakers like that were speakers that should not have seen the light of day, with passive crossovers at far too low a frequency.

So, save the money and leave your speaker crossovers alone. You will be glad you did.

 

[m. zillch]

I'd only fix 35 year-old speakers (not that we know for sure there's anything that actually needs fixing on these) under very specific circumstances:

- "These are the only ones that fit on that shelf I refuse to modify."
- "I can resell them for many multiples of their purchase price if working."
- They have some huge sentimental value.

etc.

 

[lovinthehd]

Why try and fix a problem that hasn't actually happened? I have speakers older than those...45 years old or so and have no issues with them.

 

[Squishman]

I was led astray by the Klipsch guys years ago. Most of the crossover work I did in the past probably wasn't even necessary. TLS Guy called today to say I should leave them as is. And that's what I'll do!

 

[lovinthehd]

Oh, it's not just the Klipsch guys....it's many audio group/fora that push this sort of stuff.