Opinion on KEF Powered Speakers (LS50 Wireless II / LS60 Towers

Cos

Cos

Audioholic Samurai
I think you are on the correct lines here. This is the future. Consumer demand will ensure it.

This approach will bring back good audio to far more homes.

Receivers and AVPs, have got so complicated that to be any good and reliable they have to be really expensive and beyond the reach of many. Receiver sales are in decline, and I think will become extinct in the not too distant future. Power amp sales will also go in decline. Costly AVPs will survive in some form for very high end systems.

For most active speakers connected directly to a TVs HDMI out or wireless will become the rule.

This will increase SQ and above all reliability. Amps will only need to be connected to one solitary drive unit, which will be an easy load. The most amp busting part of any passive speakers is the passive crossover, and that is by a "country mile".

I think you will be very happy with that system.

Lastly it won't have and Audyssey or DIRAC nonsense, and I bet you will find it won't need it. I am sure most rooms are not nearly as bad as alleged. Most passive speakers I think are a lot worse than most people think. People I think will quickly come to appreciate the greatly improved SQ that the transition to active speakers will bring about.
I actually agree, for simplicity's sake it's an inexpensive way to get great sound with no fuss. Don't get me wrong, I love my home theater and my speakers, but I am perfectly fine, watching all, except solid action and sci-fi on a good 2.1 channel setup. The form factor is ideal, weight of it not so much ;).

Setup was 5 Minutes, its streams, it has plenty of power and sounds impressive by themselves, add a sub and wow it is amazing, Good for medium sized rooms. The 5 Year / 2 Year electronics warranty is pretty standard.

UPDATE: KEF has an awsome benefit if you register your speakers warranty on their site, you get an additional year. I have 6 years on speaker components and 3 years on electronics, that is pretty dang good!

Old Man Gripe: WTF, how can companies that charge 6k, retail, for speakers, or 4k+ for Pre/Pros come with such craptacular remotes LOL. Granted I don't use it beyond setup but come on.
 
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N

Nondemo01

Audioholic
Old Man Gripe: WTF, how can companies that charge 6k, retail, for speakers, or 4k+ for Pre/Pros come with such craptacular remotes LOL. Granted I don't use it beyond setup but come on.
[/QUOTE]

Right!?! I said I wouldn't complain on another thread BUT, my McIntosh MA352 came with a nice LOOKING remote that is plastic junk! I think the AppleTV 4K remote should be the minimum. I don't need all the features of the long gone "universal remotes" since the advent of apps, but for over $8K, you can't make the same or better remote as a $129 device? Ah, first-world problems.
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I actually agree, for simplicity's sake it's an inexpensive way to get great sound with no fuss. Don't get me wrong, I love my home theater and my speakers, but I am perfectly fine, watching all, except solid action and sci-fi on a good 2.1 channel setup. The form factor is ideal, weight of it not so much ;).

Setup was 5 Minutes, its streams, it has plenty of power and sounds impressive by themselves, add a sub and wow it is amazing, Good for medium sized rooms. The 5 Year / 2 Year electronics warranty is pretty standard.

UPDATE: KEF has an awsome benefit if you register your speakers warranty on their site, you get an additional year. I have 6 years on speaker components and 3 years on electronics, that is pretty dang good!

Old Man Gripe: WTF, how can companies that charge 6k, retail, for speakers, or 4k+ for Pre/Pros come with such craptacular remotes LOL. Granted I don't use it beyond setup but come on.
Electronics and speaker manufacturers don't make remotes or the control chips for them, they leave that up to companies like URC, Celadon, Toshiba (control chips) and others. They have catalogs of remote styles, button layoluts and other design aspects. In addition, it's possible that the remote for one piece could control another product that's completely unrelated to the AV system, like an air conditioner, dehumidifier, lights, shades, surveillance camera DVR (personal experience) etc. Keeping the remote simple decreases the chances of interaction.
 
Cos

Cos

Audioholic Samurai
Electronics and speaker manufacturers don't make remotes or the control chips for them, they leave that up to companies like URC, Celadon, Toshiba (control chips) and others. They have catalogs of remote styles, button layoluts and other design aspects. In addition, it's possible that the remote for one piece could control another product that's completely unrelated to the AV system, like an air conditioner, dehumidifier, lights, shades, surveillance camera DVR (personal experience) etc. Keeping the remote simple decreases the chances of interaction.
Interesting, Kudos to Marantz then the remote that came with the Model 40n was nice, not backlight, but they must have put weight into it, because it felt premium.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Electronics and speaker manufacturers don't make remotes or the control chips for them, they leave that up to companies like URC, Celadon, Toshiba (control chips) and others. They have catalogs of remote styles, button layoluts and other design aspects. In addition, it's possible that the remote for one piece could control another product that's completely unrelated to the AV system, like an air conditioner, dehumidifier, lights, shades, surveillance camera DVR (personal experience) etc. Keeping the remote simple decreases the chances of interaction.
The remote of my AV 10 is metal, quite heavy and substantial. Does not feel like junk and inspires confidence.
 
N

Nondemo01

Audioholic
The remote of my AV 10 is metal, quite heavy and substantial. Does not feel like junk and inspires confidence.
Ditto with my Cinema 30. Very nicely built. Very happy with my Cinema 30. Just works without hiccups or drops. Airplay, HDMI switching, heck, I even hooked up my Marantz turntable for spinning records and I'll be damned, it sounds fine! I also like that I can change the front lights to blue. Pretty cool.
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
The remote of my AV 10 is metal, quite heavy and substantial. Does not feel like junk and inspires confidence.
I never wrote that OEM remotes are junk- they're made to order and if a manufacturer wants heft, they get heft. You understand how to use it- it will definitely not instill confidence in someone who's flustered by a bunch of buttons. You should hear the comments when non-techy people see the cables behind their system- some need a nap, so they can forget what they saw ("OMG, there are SO MANY cables!"). I heard that last week- 3 HDMI, one set of Composite/stereo, the speaker cables and one subwoofer cable, plus power for each.

The big problem is in designing a remote that's understandable by most people and can operate without some kind of degree in warped logic. A system that uses a remote for each piece requires a lot of button pressed just to watch TV, unless CEC is used and that can present its own challenges.

Consider this, for Watch TV:

Cable box Power- if it can control an AVR, great but if not, not so great.
TV Power, possibly TV input
AVR power (or press the input button, if the AVR will turn on just by using that)
AVR Source input (if it can't use that for turn on)
Cable remote for changing channels, guide, menu, etc
AVR remote for volume- if the Cable remote will control that, the Audio button may need to be pressed.

Switch to another activity/source device:
AVR source input button
Pick up different source remote and hope it doesn't look to similar to that of another device.

he TV show Modern Family addressed this in one episode- the husband told the wife that their dumbest kid could learn to operate the system better than she could and it was true, but the wife finally learned. Curb your enthusiasm addressed it too but that only involved a cable remote and the TV.

The problem with remote control SYSTEMS and universal remotes- the engineers who design them understand the logic for programming, but that doesn't mean it makes sense to people who aren't programmers.

I returned to a house last week to do some setup and connections about 13 years after I originally installed the system, because they had dropped ATT, switched to Spectrum and they also bought a Roku to use the Spectrum app. After the appointment had been made, I was also informed that they had gotten a Xumo box from Spectrum, which really makes the Roku a bit redundant, but it's still useful. The dad isn't a tech guy, the college-age son isn't, either. I thought most kids were able to understand this stuff better, but, well.....I had texted simple instructions for inserting the HDMI that had been connected to the cable box into the ROKU and since they use ALL of the remotes for all activities, they would use the Roku remote, rather than the Spectrum and use the same Sat/Cable input on the receiver. They didn't understand how to do it. In testing the system, I had to use the AVR and each source remote (depending on what was used) and the TV remote, in order to start using the system. Then, I was informed that the dad wanted me to make sure the VHS HiFi worked and since that only has a composite output, they now need to switch the input on the TV, then switch back when they want to watch anything else. The dad was originally resistant to me finding a universal remote and they have used the system for 13 years. Yes, the son and I created a cheat sheet.

I'm looking for a universal remote and will recommend using a Composite - HDMI converter, to simplify using the VCR.

The problem with heavy remote controls- people drop them and if one of those lands on a hard floor, it needs to avoid damaging the floor AND survive the fall. Also, people have little kids, dogs and childish husbands who can and will damage a remote that actually works fine, but the husband didn't like it, so he threw it onto the Oak floor. Yes, that really happened.
 
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H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Something for those who have the newer Marantz models- the 12VCD trigger area shows "100mA MAX"- I doubt the AVR/AVP will be damaged by using more current, they usually shut off that circuit until the load decreases. Somebrands show 150mA, but this still applies.

If more devices need a 12V trigger, low current relays are available and they only use about 65mA. Since the load is then independent of the AVR/AVP, the power supply (a 1A to 1.5A wall wart regulated supply is needed), additional power amps, projection screens, etc can be triggered without problems by splitting the output. These are available singly, or a single card of 6 to 16 relays can be purchased.

Also, if power amps don't have delayed turn on and a thump is heard when powering the system, delay timers for ensuring that the power amps turn on last is easy.
 
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