Least worst option for connecting existing speakers wireless for rear surround

[Kingnoob]

Got some examples?

All of the ones on crutchfield so far that I’ve checked then I went to svs and Klipsch sites couldn’t find them not that I’m considering them . Maybe I’m missing it on the page ??
or is it called something else ??

SB-1000 Pro Subwoofer | SVS

Sealed cabinet home audio subwoofer punches well above its class with stunning impact and musicality.

www.svsound.com

RP-1200SW 12" High Excursion Subwoofer

The Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-1200SW, 12-Inch High-Excursion subwoofer is one of the best, loudest, and most efficient home theater subwoofers on the…

www.klipsch.com

 

[Linwood]

I thought I would update this slightly.

The Dynasty transmitter/receiver worked fine (once I stopped using it for the subwoofer), but I ended up with two subs and really wanted them toward the back of the room not the front. That would need two more receive/transmitters (SVS makes them) and I decided to try the alternative.

I ordered a cheap area rug from Amazon, and a thick-ish carpet pad, and made myself some wire guides for two coax and two speaker cables.

I sliced the pad up so that the wire ran in in a cut-out, with the little spikes holding the pad in place up against the guides.

With the rug on top the wires are not visible, and with even soft shoes you cannot feel it (though barefoot you can). It's not a high traffic area, so I hope this is protected enough, time will tell. If these get damaged I'll replace them and put a separate carpet pad on top under the rug. Or get a better rug (you don't get much for $250, but 'real' rugs, like good quality oriental, are thousands). I looked at remnants which are somewhat cheap (but require edging) but they tend to have pretty abrasive backs, at least the ones I found. Wouldn't hurt the pad, but might wear more on the wire.

So with this (once I get all the furniture put back) I'll have everything wired. Probably should have done this before, but decades of experience in industrial wiring just screams at me for putting wire under carpet.

Yes, I saw the flat wire, but wanted coax for the subs (neither sub nor AVR did balanced so that would have been yet more gadgets to set up). I figure this is good for a few years, by then I'll be tired of that carpet anyway.

Love those 3D printers. Note sure I could get them this flat and straight with just tape.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Well done!

 

[PENG]

I am really sceptical about all these room problem claims. Yes, the room is a factor, but it is poor sub design that brings the problem to life. I have had a number of rooms over the years, and have three in the current home. Absolutely none of them cry out for any room treatment. The reason is that I don't have ANY commercial subs, and here is why.

If you have taken enough measurements of room responses (not yours but others rooms) you wouldn't be skeptical at all.

The one below is not for the worse of my 4 different room/speaker/placement setups, see the difference between on RC/EQ and RC with DL:

The difference is easily heard even for people with hearing loss lol......

PS The anechoic response of the R900 is very flat relatively speaking, between 40-20,000 Hz.

From KEF R900 Home Theater Speaker System HT Labs Measures | Sound & Vision

Purple trace is for the R900

 

[Linwood]

There are many things though being discussed that are easily conflated.

One is the skill of the user at using the tools available (REW, sub eq, AVR eq, phase and delay) to deal with these things manually.

One is actual room treatments (e.g. bass traps).

One is room design (room shape, moving speakers around, placement of listening position).

One is whether tools like ART are useful. I maintain that the less one is able to do all the things above, the more useful ART is.

Here's my ART for subs in the latest room arrangement I have. Red is "do nothing", green is with ART active. My GUESS is @TLS Guy could dramatically improve on the red by manual adjustments. However, he's not here. ART was a more practical answer for me. It would be curious if he were here whether manual adjustments would yield better than ART.

PS. I'm a bit puzzled by that dramatic drop at slightly over 150hz. ART stops being active at 150hz (I think I can adjust that), I would have expected the response to return to approximately the pre-art not plummet like that. It's on my list to investigate when I do another run after I get a pair of atmos installed.

PPS. There's another aspect of this I want to experiment with. I have been doing Audyssey first, then ART, because Audyssey requires you to set a sub level first (on the sub itself), and that level is about 10db below the SVS's default volume setting. I just wonder if this is having a bad (or possibly good) impact on what ART gets to do.

 

[TLS Guy]

If you have taken enough measurements of room responses (not yours but others rooms) you wouldn't be skeptical at all.

The one below is not for the worse of my 4 different room/speaker/placement setups, see the difference between on RC/EQ and RC with DL:

View attachment 77122

The difference is easily heard even for people with hearing loss lol......

PS The anechoic response of the R900 is very flat relatively speaking, between 40-20,000 Hz.

From KEF R900 Home Theater Speaker System HT Labs Measures | Sound & Vision

Purple trace is for the R900

View attachment 77123

I have three rooms though, and they all sound fine. The family room system was in a very different acoustic environment at the lake house, but sounded just fine, and does in the current room.

In the AV 10 Audyssey made no significant change to my settings, so I left it off. Previous version did. Of course in the theater, the active systems and variable BSC really control how the speakers emit to the room. In my view variable BSC is a massive game changer, but I can easily change the critical crossover point and driver outputs. So I would agree that it is not a typical system.

Having said that, all my systems do sound remarkably similar. The AVP in the Great room is pretty old. The returned 7706 is now in the family room and so far so good. Interestingly it seems to run a lot cooler than it ever did before. Before it got hot enough for me to add fans, but now it barely gets warm. Which confirms my impression that previously there was an issue with the power supply.

 

[PENG]

There are many things though being discussed that are easily conflated.

One is the skill of the user at using the tools available (REW, sub eq, AVR eq, phase and delay) to deal with these things manually.

One is actual room treatments (e.g. bass traps).

One is room design (room shape, moving speakers around, placement of listening position).

One is whether tools like ART are useful. I maintain that the less one is able to do all the things above, the more useful ART is.

Here's my ART for subs in the latest room arrangement I have. Red is "do nothing", green is with ART active. My GUESS is @TLS Guy could dramatically improve on the red by manual adjustments. However, he's not here. ART was a more practical answer for me. It would be curious if he were here whether manual adjustments would yield better than ART.

PS. I'm a bit puzzled by that dramatic drop at slightly over 150hz. ART stops being active at 150hz (I think I can adjust that), I would have expected the response to return to approximately the pre-art not plummet like that. It's on my list to investigate when I do another run after I get a pair of atmos installed.

PPS. There's another aspect of this I want to experiment with. I have been doing Audyssey first, then ART, because Audyssey requires you to set a sub level first (on the sub itself), and that level is about 10db below the SVS's default volume setting. I just wonder if this is having a bad (or possibly good) impact on what ART gets to do.

View attachment 77137

Since ART is more about improvements by reducing decay time, would you please kindly share your measurements on decays as well. As for frequency response improvements, DLBC without ART can do an excellent job already, but for the decays, ART seems to have done good things for many posters on ASR.

 

[Linwood]

Since ART is more about improvements by reducing decay time, would you please kindly share your measurements on decays as well. As for frequency response improvements, DLBC without ART can do an excellent job already, but for the decays, ART seems to have done good things for many posters on ASR.

I don't understand the decay graphs well enough to know which is relevant or how to read, but I can try, and welcome pointers how to do it properly.

This is the one labeled RT60 decay per-ART (I was unable to scale it so the red line was fully in the screen, but did each the same scale)

with ART:

The graph simply labeled Decay, no ART:

With ART:

And I see people talking about waterfall a lot so here's that:

And with ART:

What does it all say?

 

[TLS Guy]

I don't understand the decay graphs well enough to know which is relevant or how to read, but I can try, and welcome pointers how to do it properly.

This is the one labeled RT60 decay per-ART (I was unable to scale it so the red line was fully in the screen, but did each the same scale)

View attachment 77183

with ART:

View attachment 77184

The graph simply labeled Decay, no ART:

View attachment 77177
With ART:

View attachment 77178

And I see people talking about waterfall a lot so here's that:

View attachment 77179

And with ART:

View attachment 77180

What does it all say?

I would say for a room like that, it says you have done a good job. Now enjoy it, which is the point of it all.

 

[Linwood]

I would say for a room like that, it says you have done a good job. Now enjoy it, which is the point of it all.

I have been. I'm done with stuff until after the new year, then one more event to (try to) get the atmos installed -- then either way "done".

Well, almost. Trying to get the piano tied in more reliably. There's a bunch of things that have to happen when I activate it (power to piano equipment, turn on AVR, turn on some lights, grab control of Kobe on the embedded piano computer, power up the wireless speaker link for the audio channel). It works most of the time, but not always (which means it never works when I have guests and want to show it off ).

But I don't care how good your audio system is, it doesn't compare to a real grand piano playing (and with the player it's reproducing people who REALLY know how to play).

But that's an aside... the HT stuff is almost done. MAYBE next black friday a bigger TV.