Problems with CEC on TV, receiver, and Firestick..

[Ozark01]

STR DN 1070 Receiver
K65XR80 Sony TV
4K Firestick

I have the equipment above and want it to work the way it worked when I had a Samsung TV. The Sony TV is the new piece of equipment.

The Firestick is plugged into the Game HDMI port on the receiver and the HDMI output of the receiver is plugged into HDMI 3 ARC input on the TV.

I want the Firestick remote to control the TV, the receiver, and the Firestick. With the old Samsung TV when I pressed the power button on the Firestick remote the TV came on to the correct input on the receiver and the TV.

With the new Sony TV when I press the power button on the Firestick remote the TV comes on but it defaults to HDMI 1. ( I have the TV setup to come on to the Last Input used but it does not seem to matter). I have the TV button on the Sony TV remote set for HDMI 3 so the TV changes to HDMI 3 when it is pressed. This puts me at the setup screen on the receiver where I have to select the Game input to use the Firestick. The Firestick then appears and can be used as log as the Home button on the Firestick remote is not pressed.

At this point when I press the home button on the Firestick remote the TV switches to HDMI 1 and of course the Firestick does not work any longer.

I have tried every combination of CEC control on the three devices and the best I have gotten is that the Firestick remote will power the TV on/off and control the volume on the receiver. Once again if I press the Home button on the Firestick remote the TV goes to HDMI 1. I have yet to get the TV to default to the HDMI 3 input using the Firestick remote.

Any ideas would be appreciated as to how to setup the CEC controls on these three devices.

 

[TLS Guy]

STR DN 1070 Receiver
K65XR80 Sony TV
4K Firestick

I have the equipment above and want it to work the way it worked when I had a Samsung TV. The Sony TV is the new piece of equipment.

The Firestick is plugged into the Game HDMI port on the receiver and the HDMI output of the receiver is plugged into HDMI 3 ARC input on the TV.

I want the Firestick remote to control the TV, the receiver, and the Firestick. With the old Samsung TV when I pressed the power button on the Firestick remote the TV came on to the correct input on the receiver and the TV.

With the new Sony TV when I press the power button on the Firestick remote the TV comes on but it defaults to HDMI 1. ( I have the TV setup to come on to the Last Input used but it does not seem to matter). I have the TV button on the Sony TV remote set for HDMI 3 so the TV changes to HDMI 3 when it is pressed. This puts me at the setup screen on the receiver where I have to select the Game input to use the Firestick. The Firestick then appears and can be used as log as the Home button on the Firestick remote is not pressed.

At this point when I press the home button on the Firestick remote the TV switches to HDMI 1 and of course the Firestick does not work any longer.

I have tried every combination of CEC control on the three devices and the best I have gotten is that the Firestick remote will power the TV on/off and control the volume on the receiver. Once again if I press the Home button on the Firestick remote the TV goes to HDMI 1. I have yet to get the TV to default to the HDMI 3 input using the Firestick remote.

Any ideas would be appreciated as to how to setup the CEC controls on these three devices.

CEC is a total cluster "you know what." Turn it off and make sure it stays off, and just turn your units on as you need them.

 

[-Jim-]

CEC is a total cluster "you know what." Turn it off and make sure it stays off, and just turn your units on as you need them.

Sadly @TLS Guy is correct. CEC is a mess, and in my opinion worse with Sony gear, as they've taken HDMI Handshaking to a new level of frustration and CEC along with it. I have two Sony receivers, a couple of their Blu-ray Players, and a 4K one as well => all on various HT systems (I have 4 of them. Yes I know I have a problem.) I have found that the sequence devices turn on affect operational success and many times lead to failure.

All you can do is try different configurations like plugging the Firestick into the TV and relying on eArc to get the signal to the receiver. By the way, it wouldn't hurt to check the HDMI Cables all work well and meet the specifications needed for all the devices connected.

But as suggested, you may have to just turn CEC off and live with pushing an extra button or two on a remote.

I know life is Tough!

 

[Eppie]

Bear in mind some devices require CEC for certain features. My Samsung TV requires CEC to be enabled for eARC to send audio back to the AVR (if you, say, want to use the built in apps on the TV). It powers on the TV, cable box and AVR with the cable box remote, but power off only turns off the AVR and I have to manually turn off the TV. This might also be due to the fact that I have HDMI pass-through enabled on the cable box port, so the TV still sees a signal with the AVR off. Many do not use the pass-through feature but my wife likes to just turn on the TV and use the TV speakers for casual viewing. My NVidia Shield does not power on other devices through CEC but I decided long ago it was easier just to grab the extra remote than muck about with crappy CEC features.

 

[Teetertotter?]

Apparently, you don't have Wi-Fi in your home for your new TV to connect to? Otherwise, you can add apps to your new smart tv? Then throw away the Firestick.

 

[Ozark01]

Thanks for the replies. I ended up with the new 65" Sony TV because my 60" Samsung did not support A2DP which my wife needed for her hearing aid streaming. It seems nobody makes a 60" OLED tv so I had to go to a 55" or 65" We tried a 55" and the screen was too small for our room. The only 65" OLED we could fine that was less than 34" tall was the Sony. The Samsung CEC worked great so I am disappointed (ands surprised) that the Sony CEC sucks especially since the AVR and TV are both Sony products. I guess I'll keep messing with the settings and see what happens. Thanks again!

 

[Ozark01]

Apparently, you don't have Wi-Fi in your home for your new TV to connect to? Otherwise, you can add apps to your new smart tv? Then throw away the Firestick.

 

[Trebdp83]

Samsung TVs, or at least mine, were better at controlling devices connected through an AVR than other brands. Many new TVs have Universal Remote Control functionality as well but that functionality may work only for devices connected directly to the TV while Samsung TVs, at least mine, could control them through an AVR. My LG C1 is very finicky about HDMI-CEC and Universal Remote Control. As mentioned by @-Jim- , a direct connection to the TV may be necessary here. But, the Sony receiver here supports ARC, not eARC and lossless multichannel PCM, Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio will not be supported over ARC from any devices connected directly to the TV.

I have also noticed multiple Android, Apple or even a single Roku device mixed with the others will make for a mess in a system using HDMI-CEC. The setup assist on my Amazon Fire Cube Gen 3 is fantastic. I'm not sure if it is featured in the Firestick. The NVIDIA SHIELD TV Pro has the best HDMI-CEC feature set when using Developer settings. It can power everything ON and OFF and will go to sleep without interfering with anything if I switch to another input source device using the other device's remote controller. Changing out any devices makes my system go mad and I've reset EVERYTHING more times than I can count. Currently, my receiver connected devices using HDMI-CEC include an Apple TV 4K, NVIDIA SHIELD TV Pro, Sony UBP-X800M2 and TiVo Roamio. All will power the TV and receiver ON when using any of their remote controllers and all but the Sony can power everything OFF.

If just one more HDMI-CEC enabled device is connected to either my TV or receiver, everything goes to s#%t. While the HDMI-CEC spec supports something like fifteen devices, different TVs and AVRs have their own limits concerning the number of a particular kind of device and the total number of all devices. There is not one standard to rule them all and it can be very difficult to get a combination of HDMI-CEC capable devices to work well together in a system.

Many Smart TVs feature the apps many want to use but aren't as fully featured or as powerful as external streamers. But, as @Teetertotter? mentioned, it might be worth trying to use the TVs apps to see if it features the apps needed here. You might also try unplugging all devices for a bit and see if that helps at all. Good luck.

 

[Ozark01]

Apparently, you don't have Wi-Fi in your home for your new TV to connect to? Otherwise, you can add apps to your new smart tv? Then throw away the Firestick.

The Firestick has some features my old Samsung TV did not have. I'll play with the new TV and see what has changed in the TV app world. BTW....my Firestick is plugged into my AVR which allows me to send the signal to two TV's. Not sure if the new main TV can feed a second TV. (My main TV is in the living room and second TV is in the kitchen around a corner where you can not see the picture but can hear the sound). Thanks for the reply.

 

[Ozark01]

Samsung TVs, or at least mine, were better at controlling devices connected through an AVR than other brands. Many new TVs have Universal Remote Control functionality as well but that functionality may work only for devices connected directly to the TV while Samsung TVs, at least mine, could control them through an AVR. My LG C1 is very finicky about HDMI-CEC and Universal Remote Control. As mentioned by @-Jim- , a direct connection to the TV may be necessary here. But, the Sony receiver here supports ARC, not eARC and lossless multichannel PCM, Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio will not be supported over ARC from any devices connected directly to the TV.

I have also noticed multiple Android, Apple or even a single Roku device mixed with the others will make for a mess in a system using HDMI-CEC. The setup assist on my Amazon Fire Cube Gen 3 is fantastic. I'm not sure if it is featured in the Firestick. The NVIDIA SHIELD TV Pro has the best HDMI-CEC feature set when using Developer settings. It can power everything ON and OFF and will go to sleep without interfering with anything if I switch to another input source device using the other device's remote controller. Changing out any devices makes my system go mad and I've reset EVERYTHING more times than I can count. Currently, my receiver connected devices using HDMI-CEC include an Apple TV 4K, NVIDIA SHIELD TV Pro, Sony UBP-X800M2 and TiVo Roamio. All will power the TV and receiver ON when using any of their remote controllers and all but the Sony can power everything OFF.

If just one more HDMI-CEC enabled device is connected to either my TV or receiver, everything goes to s#%t. While the HDMI-CEC spec supports something like fifteen devices, different TVs and AVRs have their own limits concerning the number of a particular kind of device and the total number of all devices. There is not one standard to rule them all and it can be very difficult to get a combination of HDMI-CEC capable devices to work well together in a system.

Many Smart TVs feature the apps many want to use but aren't as fully featured or as powerful as external streamers. But, as @Teetertotter? mentioned, it might be worth trying to use the TVs apps to see if it features the apps needed here. You might also try unplugging all devices for a bit and see if that helps at all. Good luck.

I think you said in your outstanding reply that my DN 1070 receiver may not support the eARC on my tv. Could this be part of my problem ?

 

[Trebdp83]

It should not be an issue concerning HDMI-CEC but stranger things have happened. Try adjusting the eARC setting in the TV from Auto to OFF and see if audio is still output over ARC with Bravia Sync(HDMI-CEC) still ON using one of the TVs apps or tuner if applicable. The receiver should switch inputs to the TV if ARC is functional with the new settings.