Speaker Level Match After Dirac Live

Sawtaytoes

Sawtaytoes

Junior Audioholic
Doesn't always work that way.
I don't wanna have to put all the caveats. This guy knows his stuff for car audio. I don't wanna say "given a reputable brand and ensuring the speakers are designed for home theater and they're designed for X and that when I say 'more expensive', I mean from a given manufacturer's lineup", etc etc. And the speaker sensitivity changes how loud you can play at any given power rating provided that's measured correctly, etc.

Overall, if I buy Polks and get a higher end model that costs more, it will be a better speaker. If I buy Perlisten and buy the highest model, it will be a better speaker. If I buy a JTR and buy a higher model, it will play louder or lower. In my experience, it's rare that any home theater speaker company would break this pattern. The 2-channel world is the wild west, but the home theater world, given a set of respected brands, is gonna be "more money = better".

Doesn't mean your system would benefit, but that's not what I'm saying. That has nothing to do with setting the crossover to 120Hz or 90Hz.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I don't wanna have to put all the caveats. This guy knows his stuff for car audio. I don't wanna say "given a reputable brand and ensuring the speakers are designed for home theater and they're designed for X and that when I say 'more expensive', I mean from a given manufacturer's lineup", etc etc. And the speaker sensitivity changes how loud you can play at any given power rating provided that's measured correctly, etc.

Overall, if I buy Polks and get a higher end model that costs more, it will be a better speaker. If I buy Perlisten and buy the highest model, it will be a better speaker. If I buy a JTR and buy a higher model, it will play louder or lower. In my experience, it's rare that any home theater speaker company would break this pattern. The 2-channel world is the wild west, but the home theater world, given a set of respected brands, is gonna be "more money = better".

Doesn't mean your system would benefit, but that's not what I'm saying. That has nothing to do with setting the crossover to 120Hz or 90Hz.
LOL just meant expensive means more capable. Lots of caveats for sure, have no idea what the relation to car audio here is tho...cars have Dirac now?
 
W

WhiteGhost

Enthusiast
Basically in my car I have 3 layers of sound deadening and powerful 6.5" in components in all 4 doors with a 18" sub , when I turn the sub off and play the speakers at max undistorted volume I can toggle what frequency cutoffs I want for them from my experience 100hz to 120hz is the best cut off points. I prefer 120hz as it sound crystal clear and then when I re introduce the sub it's magically clear and tons of authority in the bass region due to the sub. Now back to home theater I have noticed the same behavior when Dirac set my speaker to 70hz all around sure it sounds amazing a low listening volume to mid but as soon as you get closer to reference it's starts to show the muddiness. Also if you go from 70hz Dirac slot to 120hz slot it becomes even more apparent just how crystal clear 120hz sounds. I've also noticed the perfect transition between the LFE set at 120hz and the speakers also at 120hz is so perfect where if you set sub at 80hz there is just something missing it is not as silky in sound. This is where car audio is different however when you set sub at 120hz it just allows to much low vocal through and you would want 80hz and below. That is what I've been seeing and just wanted others perspectives on this.
 
Sawtaytoes

Sawtaytoes

Junior Audioholic
Basically in my car I have 3 layers of sound deadening and powerful 6.5" in components in all 4 doors with a 18" sub , when I turn the sub off and play the speakers at max undistorted volume I can toggle what frequency cutoffs I want for them from my experience 100hz to 120hz is the best cut off points. I prefer 120hz as it sound crystal clear and then when I re introduce the sub it's magically clear and tons of authority in the bass region due to the sub. Now back to home theater I have noticed the same behavior when Dirac set my speaker to 70hz all around sure it sounds amazing a low listening volume to mid but as soon as you get closer to reference it's starts to show the muddiness. Also if you go from 70hz Dirac slot to 120hz slot it becomes even more apparent just how crystal clear 120hz sounds. I've also noticed the perfect transition between the LFE set at 120hz and the speakers also at 120hz is so perfect where if you set sub at 80hz there is just something missing it is not as silky in sound. This is where car audio is different however when you set sub at 120hz it just allows to much low vocal through and you would want 80hz and below. That is what I've been seeing and just wanted others perspectives on this.
If you're saying 120Hz sounds crystal clear at volume, I don't doubt you. So I'd leave your crossover where it's at.

The reason I say not to mess with the subwoofer crossover is that no other speaker plays the LFE channel. If you cut it off at 120Hz, you will lose anything the creators intended at or above 120Hz. There won't be vocals in the LFE track, you just wanna make sure you're not losing data by cutting off your subs.

The way your speaker crossover setting works is by rolling off anything at or below 120Hz and sending the rest of that audio to the subs. It's a splitter. That means your subs will only get audio 120Hz and below* (roll-off means a bit above 120Hz, but not at the same volume).
 
W

WhiteGhost

Enthusiast
Yes I totally understand I'm doing some listening at the moment and finding 120hz even 100hz is not blending as well and localizing subs a bit to much to my liking I think DIRAC has nailed there software and 70hz just may be the optimal I'm going to try 80hz and compare it's so close I may not be able to decern.
 
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