Help with subwoofer connection

lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Unfortunately I have recurrent hyperparathyroidism, and I'm hypercalcemic again. I have to really concentrate to remember what happens recently at the moment. But I think I found it in the user manual. Anyhow the information fits with what the OP is experiencing. Old age brings it problems, and its benefits over the alternative becomes increasingly marginal.
LOL yeah me too. I found a brochure for the htib set with more info on the avr (which had an input sensitivity of 200mV) but not much on the sub itself (YSW 37?). I'd think the older Denon may have had a stronger pre-out than his newer Denon, but not by a lot unless they're really strangling the new lower end models.....
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
User manual is online. I just couldn't process earlier. ;) *blushes
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
The spec sure looks more for line input than sub input, but.....
 
B

blk00ss

Junior Audioholic
Old cheap small ported subs may deserve that reputation (mostly what caused the reputation), but a well designed ported sub wouldn't be boomy. I think you're just getting a better sub now and you'll appreciate it more as you become accustomed to it....



What don't you like about the X1200? The avr that came with your set was a Denon AVR 683, a decent one, but somewhat similar in lineup position I'd think.
My old 683 was solid. But it lacked all the modern things (obviously) like bluetooth, HDMI etc. Never had an issue with it. This 1200 is fine for the most part, but every once in a while I get a screen blackout /sometimes snow for a just few seconds typically in the middle of a game or movie. The Bluetooth has to constantly be re-paired with devices, the front panel USB sometimes just does not recognize the device plugged into it and the face plate paint started chipping off a few months after I got it. In fact, it looks awful now. I'm actually trying to get the rest of the paint to flake off so it'll at least be uniform across the front. But what bugs me most is all these issues were brought to Denon's customer service and I never once got a real solution which is what I found to be most frustrating. Many of those issues are hit and miss so its hard to diagnose and address, but the faceplate paint was really the last straw for me. It felt like a lot of stalling on their end. So frustrating that I'll probably go the Yamaha route next time since it seems Denon now owns everyone else these days. I was a huge Pioneer guy, but I just recently learned Denon bought them I guess. But I won't lie, I still like some of the Pioneer Elite stuff.
 
B

blk00ss

Junior Audioholic
The spec sure looks more for line input than sub input, but.....
How would that affect what I'm trying to achieve with this new sub? I'm just curious because on the back of my new receiver I have two subwoofers out and it says I could run two subs if I wanted since its 7.2. I currently have splitter RCA's on both ends...I have both outs on the receiver hooked up ( I guess I could disco one of them) and they're running to both the red/ white on the back of my new sub. But the original sub has only 1 input and it says "line level input" and seeing your comment made me wonder if I may still have something wrong?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
How would that affect what I'm trying to achieve with this new sub? I'm just curious because on the back of my new receiver I have two subwoofers out and it says I could run two subs if I wanted since its 7.2. I currently have splitter RCA's on both ends...I have both outs on the receiver hooked up ( I guess I could disco one of them) and they're running to both the red/ white on the back of my new sub. But the original sub has only 1 input and it says "line level input" and seeing your comment made me wonder if I may still have something wrong?
Then you will gain another 3db may be, if you run two RCA cables, one from each sub out to the two inputs on the sub. You won't need the Y then.
 
B

blk00ss

Junior Audioholic
Then you will gain another 3db may be, if you run two RCA cables, one from each sub out to the two inputs on the sub. You won't need the Y then.
So you're saying ditch the Y at both ends and just run two of these separately...one from subwoofer out to red input on subwoofer and the other from the other subwoofer out to white input on the sub?

1650517733088.png
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
How would that affect what I'm trying to achieve with this new sub? I'm just curious because on the back of my new receiver I have two subwoofers out and it says I could run two subs if I wanted since its 7.2. I currently have splitter RCA's on both ends...I have both outs on the receiver hooked up ( I guess I could disco one of them) and they're running to both the red/ white on the back of my new sub. But the original sub has only 1 input and it says "line level input" and seeing your comment made me wonder if I may still have something wrong?
It won't really. You have splitter rcas at both end? Not sure what that means....but many ".2" sub pre-outs on avrs are identical (with an internal splitter), few are actually separately adjustable (for level and delay typically for those). You could use a pair of rcas from the two sub pre-outs to the two inputs on the sub, it could provide a bit more gain up front. They are all line level inputs and my comment was the vague spec found for the htib system, where it didn't actually specify the sub's input sensitivity level....but alluded to a possible pre-out level of only 200mV, which seems very low for an avr, but the spec seemed more the line input sensitivity of the avr rather than the sub. Generally you won't finds input sensitivity spec for sub amps (except for external/pro-type amps meant to be used with a variety of subs).
 
B

blk00ss

Junior Audioholic
It won't really. You have splitter rcas at both end? Not sure what that means....but many ".2" sub pre-outs on avrs are identical (with an internal splitter), few are actually separately adjustable (for level and delay typically for those). You could use a pair of rcas from the two sub pre-outs to the two inputs on the sub, it could provide a bit more gain up front. They are all line level inputs and my comment was the vague spec found for the htib system, where it didn't actually specify the sub's input sensitivity level....but alluded to a possible pre-out level of only 200mV, which seems very low for an avr, but the spec seemed more the line input sensitivity of the avr rather than the sub. Generally you won't finds input sensitivity spec for sub amps (except for external/pro-type amps meant to be used with a variety of subs).
So since you brought that up, I tried the RCAs coming out of the pre out zone 2 and could never even get a signal to the subwoofer. That was one of the first things the tech had me try. Any idea why? I tried again yesterday just to see if it would work and, nothing. I tried two different RCA cables, which technically both work.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
So since you brought that up, I tried the RCAs coming out of the pre out zone 2 and could never even get a signal to the subwoofer. That was one of the first things the tech had me try. Any idea why? I tried again yesterday just to see if it would work and, nothing. I tried two different RCA cables, which technically both work.
You might have to tell the AVR there are two subwoofers. My Marantz is like that.
Do you have a Monte Carlo?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
So since you brought that up, I tried the RCAs coming out of the pre out zone 2 and could never even get a signal to the subwoofer. That was one of the first things the tech had me try. Any idea why? I tried again yesterday just to see if it would work and, nothing. I tried two different RCA cables, which technically both work.
May depend on what the input source is for zone 2, if an hdmi source it wouldn't surprise me at all that it wouldn't pass signal. If your rca cables (the splitter or regular male to male version) are functional that's more important/relevant. I still think your sub and the avr output is fine, you just need to adjust for the differences with the old htib "sub" (sorry, a 6.5" driver doesn't equate to "sub" for me at all).
 
B

blk00ss

Junior Audioholic
May depend on what the input source is for zone 2, if an hdmi source it wouldn't surprise me at all that it wouldn't pass signal. If your rca cables (the splitter or regular male to male version) are functional that's more important/relevant. I still think your sub and the avr output is fine, you just need to adjust for the differences with the old htib "sub" (sorry, a 6.5" driver doesn't equate to "sub" for me at all).
I bet you're right, it probably has something to do with me running HDMI. I use HDMI into the receiver from my PS4 and then HDMI out to my monitor via HDMI ARC

I agree on the 6.5 "subwoofer". After messing with this a bit more today, I think everything is working fine. Its weird because that little 6.5 driver was real, I guess boomy would be the word. Had a very hollow resonating type bass. But it would move air at a very rapid pace from the port. That little thing would move way more air than this new 10 does from its port. This new sub is very subtle I guess is how I would describe it. Like for instance if you're playing a game or watching a movie, you may not "hear" the new sub, but you can kind of feel it. I have the gain at about 50%. But you almost don't realize its working. But if you go and turn the gain to 0, its really obvious when its gone. Hard to describe, but you probably know what I'm saying. Hopefully that's how a good sub is SUPPOSED to compliment your AV setup. Maybe?

I am however going to have to reposition it I think. It backs to a wall, but right next to that wall is a hall way and most of my hard hitting bass when listening to music is technically behind the sub while standing in that hallway which means its not technically in the room where the AV equipment is.
 

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