Best ULF sub recommendations

[tayl1da]

I was wanting to know what’s a good reaso ally priced powerful ulf sub that can go below 10hz.

 

[lovinthehd]

Reasonably priced means what? $13k for one of these plus a room https://www.soundandvision.com/content/eminent-technology-trw-17-rotary-subwoofer

These cost less https://www.deepseasound.com/products/mariana-24sc-24-subwoofer

 

[ryanosaur]

Have somebody model a cabinet that is at least 20cu.ft… build at least 2, and get 2 each 24” Stereo Integrity or Harbottle drivers.
Anything single digit is going to rely on the room. So hopefully you have something smaller rather than larger.
Otherwise, look at DIY BOSS platforms.

But buying something that can possibly go that low? Deep Sea may be your best bet if they get more Drivers.

 

[vader540is]

I was wanting to know what’s a good reaso ally priced powerful ulf sub that can go below 10hz.

What is your budget

 

[tayl1da]

What is your budget

3000

 

[vader540is]

3000

S3613

S3613 is a powered sealed subwoofer with 4000W of continuous, DSP controlled power and two 18" B&C neodymium dual voice coil drivers.

www.powersoundaudio.com

JTR Captivator RS1 — JTR Speakers

www.jtrspeakers.com

I would also like to recommend harbottle audio kits and Deep sea sound...but due to global supply chain issues they don't have stock.

Best to email them for current updates.

 

[shadyJ]

Buy 12 of these.
Buy 3 of these.
Buy enough MDF to make some sealed enclosures for the drivers.
Wire two drivers per channel on the amp in a serial circuit.
Enjoy 10Hz.

 

[TLS Guy]

I was wanting to know what’s a good reaso ally priced powerful ulf sub that can go below 10hz.

Unless you are demolition contractor that is a pointless endeavor.

 

[MalVeauX]

Hi,

So, the best way to go infrasonic is custom DIY. There's not really a commercial market for this. And the real key is to design the sub enclosure and port it and actually tune the port to 8hz or whatever you're wanting to achieve. Buying a sub that is tuned to 14hz, 15hz, 16hz, 17hz, 18hz, etc, with its port is just going to not do 8~10hz without a melt down. So you have to build it and tune the port to 8~10hz yourself, or have someone do it for you and have someone mill/cnc the parts unless you're handy. Then work on picking the appropriate driver(s) (though should have been part of the box build and calcs). Powering it is the easier part.

Very best,

 

[lovinthehd]

Unless you are demolition contractor that is a pointless endeavor.

Lol like your tastes in crappy christian choral stuff (let alone soccer game warblings of drunken fans) are relevant to much of anything ULF....

 

[TLS Guy]

Hi,

So, the best way to go infrasonic is custom DIY. There's not really a commercial market for this. And the real key is to design the sub enclosure and port it and actually tune the port to 8hz or whatever you're wanting to achieve. Buying a sub that is tuned to 14hz, 15hz, 16hz, 17hz, 18hz, etc, with its port is just going to not do 8~10hz without a melt down. So you have to build it and tune the port to 8~10hz yourself, or have someone do it for you and have someone mill/cnc the parts unless you're handy. Then work on picking the appropriate driver(s) (though should have been part of the box build and calcs). Powering it is the easier part.

Very best,

You post is rife with error, and not in any way correct. You can NOT tune an enclosure to any frequency you pick out of the air. The tuning frequency has to be determined by the T/S parameters of the driver. You can not make a driver produce an output below Fs. Some will output a few Hz below Fs with extended bass tuning, though this is not advisable. There are very few drivers with an Fs below 18 to 20 Hz. As a general rule F3 will be a few Hz above the Fs of the driver what ever your erroneous math may tell you.

 

[TLS Guy]

Lol like your tastes in crappy christian choral stuff (let alone soccer game warblings of drunken fans) are relevant to much of anything ULF....

Well I can tell you, when I did the calculations for my bass lines, I realized they could be a demolition unit. When I had them in our lake home which had 4" studs, I did have to moderate the volume for fear of structural damage. That is one of the reasons I built an ICF home with 6" reinforced concrete walls. Even now these lines can really shake the floor, which I really reinforced and they can rattle the furniture downstairs and worry my wife when the grand kids are watching movies with lots of explosions.

A speaker that really does couple to the air like my long bass lines, can actually present a significant structural hazard. Most speakers fortunately do not couple to the air really well. My pipes do, and I have to use caution.

 

[lovinthehd]

Well I can tell you, when I did the calculations for my bass lines, I realized they could be a demolition unit. When I had them in our lake home which had 4" studs, I did have to moderate the volume for fear of structural damage. That is one of the reasons I built an ICF home with 6" reinforced concrete walls. Even now these lines can really shake the floor, which I really reinforced and they can rattle the furniture downstairs and worry my wife when the grand kids are watching movies with lots of explosions.

A speaker that really does couple to the air like my long bass lines, can actually present a significant structural hazard. Most speakers fortunately do not couple to the air really well. My pipes do, and I have to use caution.

Uh huh.

 

[j_garcia]

My old Adire Tempest 15" in a sonotube was tuned to 17Hz and would roll off at 14Hz. At which point I could read it on the meter, but not hear it except for things that maybe had sympathetic resonances. One closet door would go crazy at ~22.5Hz, I had to leave it open while doing sweeps.

Buttkickers might get you 10Hz capability. I see one is rated 5-200Hz if all you are looking for is vibration, since there is nothing audible in that range.

 

[Alex2507]

That's the way

Uh huh.

Uh huh.

I like it ...

Gimme the crappy christian choral stuff any day.

 

[annunaki]

You are going to need to find a sub driver with an Fs of 12hz-8hz or so that is capable of venting at that low of a frequency or your driver is likely to melt down all the time. You will also need the space available for said driver(s) system as a vented enclosure or TL system would result in a very large size.