A little help for a very, very basic computer subwoofer selection and setup.

[SilverCBX]

Not sure if my level of expertise is so low I should be posting somewhere less esoteric but......
Well, I signed up for a site to peruse next year when I assemble a totally new (to me) home theater array but, for now, have a VERY simple need (ignorance) of some hookup help for a subwoofer. I currently have an old (but good) desktop computer that has a couple of old AR speakers attached to the motherboard via a 3.5mm stereo cable; one speaker hard wired to the other through the standard speaker press-to-connect clips. They have been serviceable forever with some YouTube videos as I don't spend a lot of time focusing on the acoustics (some attention but mostly background music). Buuttt... recently I have acquired the bug for something a little better (you know, kind of like 'new car' itch) and have just ordered a pair of AudioEngine HD3 speakers to replace the ARs. I have never hooked up a subwoofer before and have that 'ignorance is panic' feeling that there is something I need to know - but don't. There is no outputs from the ARs, only the wire clips for the second speaker. Although the HD3 has bluetooth capability, I prefer hard wiring. In the HD3 reviews, one fellow said he used the USB connection for the HD3s. That is totally foreign to me. How can the USB detect the speakers? Anyway, I'm looking for some thoughts about expanding the audio to include a subwoofer. After the sticker shock of the HD3s, I think I can stand another $200 for a small SW (subwoofer) with a 12-15" square footprint that I can put under the computer table. As the computer setup is a crowded mess of total chaos (I work better cluttered: a self imposed pressure), the acoustics are less than pristine. I'm VERY big on reliablility over clarity but feel a beautiful bass tone would soothe my furrowed brow (I'm a big fan of Choir, Choir, Choir - and all choir music). Would much appreciate any connection/wiring directions and recommendations as to a good quality SW to add to the new HD3s (the AE S8 SW is beyond my financial reach at this time). When I get the HD3s, do I hook the SW directly to them or use a sort of stereo cable splitter to connect the motherboard output to the HD3s -and- the SW - or what? If you have worked your way through this, you're a brave fellow and may be just the one to help me out here. At any rate, thanks for reading and sharing any thoughts you may have for me.

 

[lovinthehd]

Pretty low budget for a sub, but maybe something like the Dayton SUB1200 would come in budget and be of decent quality. I see L/R rca output jacks on the speakers which you could easily connect to the sub's line in inputs. You'd only have the controls on the sub to integrate with your speakers, and no high pass for the speakers. The only analog outputs from your computer is a single 3.5mm jack? (Some had multi-ch jacks that could accommodate a separate sub channel being managed in the computer).

 

[Eppie]

Not sure if my level of expertise is so low I should be posting somewhere less esoteric but......
Well, I signed up for a site to peruse next year when I assemble a totally new (to me) home theater array but, for now, have a VERY simple need (ignorance) of some hookup help for a subwoofer. I currently have an old (but good) desktop computer that has a couple of old AR speakers attached to the motherboard via a 3.5mm stereo cable; one speaker hard wired to the other through the standard speaker press-to-connect clips. They have been serviceable forever with some YouTube videos as I don't spend a lot of time focusing on the acoustics (some attention but mostly background music). Buuttt... recently I have acquired the bug for something a little better (you know, kind of like 'new car' itch) and have just ordered a pair of AudioEngine HD3 speakers to replace the ARs. I have never hooked up a subwoofer before and have that 'ignorance is panic' feeling that there is something I need to know - but don't. There is no outputs from the ARs, only the wire clips for the second speaker. Although the HD3 has bluetooth capability, I prefer hard wiring. In the HD3 reviews, one fellow said he used the USB connection for the HD3s. That is totally foreign to me. How can the USB detect the speakers? Anyway, I'm looking for some thoughts about expanding the audio to include a subwoofer. After the sticker shock of the HD3s, I think I can stand another $200 for a small SW (subwoofer) with a 12-15" square footprint that I can put under the computer table. As the computer setup is a crowded mess of total chaos (I work better cluttered: a self imposed pressure), the acoustics are less than pristine. I'm VERY big on reliablility over clarity but feel a beautiful bass tone would soothe my furrowed brow (I'm a big fan of Choir, Choir, Choir - and all choir music). Would much appreciate any connection/wiring directions and recommendations as to a good quality SW to add to the new HD3s (the AE S8 SW is beyond my financial reach at this time). When I get the HD3s, do I hook the SW directly to them or use a sort of stereo cable splitter to connect the motherboard output to the HD3s -and- the SW - or what? If you have worked your way through this, you're a brave fellow and may be just the one to help me out here. At any rate, thanks for reading and sharing any thoughts you may have for me.

So, the HD3 has 4 ways of receiving music. The L/R RCA inputs, stereo mini-jack (like you're currently using), the USB connection or via blue-tooth. The RCA and mini-jack are analogue connections, so your computer is doing the digital to analogue conversion. With the USB or blue-tooth connection the HD3 receives a digital signal and does the digital to analogue conversion. A modern OS like Windows 10 will detect the device via USB or blue-tooth and recognize that it can receive digital audio. You may need to check the mixer settings. It might be worth trying both the analogue and digital connections and see which sounds better as the analogue audio out on the computer might be more noisy.

For the subwoofer, go on the AudioEngine website and look at the photos for the HD3. There are two RCA outputs below the RCA inputs and a bass switch for using a subwoofer. Those speakers only go down to 65 Hz so a subwoofer will help with deep bass. The bass switch turns on a filter which sends content below 100 Hz to the subwoofer. Most subwoofers have both RCA inputs and speaker connection inputs. Since the HD3 has RCA outputs, all you will need for the sub is a stereo RCA cable. Turn the crossover frequency on the subwoofer above 100 Hz and then adjust the volume to your liking.

Don't expect great quality at the $200 price point, but since this is a computer setup with near-field speakers, the sub won't be cranked up real loud. I still have an old pair of Cambridge Soundworks computer speakers with the matching micro-sub and for music in the den it's fine. The HD3 amps are only 15W RMS so you don't need a home theatre subwoofer, just something compact.

BestBuy (assuming you're in the U.S.) only has one sub under $200, the Polk PSW10 but currently out of stock. I think your best bet probably is monoprice.com. They have several subs under $200 with 10" and 12" drivers and even have low profile subs to fit under furniture, and their quality is usually pretty decent.
Parts-express.com also carries subs under $200 from Dayton and BIC.

 

[lovinthehd]

Dang, I missed the bass switch and limiting thing on the speakers....so you do get a bit of bass management.

 

[Eppie]

Dang, I missed the bass switch and limiting thing on the speakers....so you do get a bit of bass management.

Yes, nice little feature for powered bookshelves. Not sure which is better, the Dayton or Monoprice?

 

[lovinthehd]

Yes, nice little feature for powered bookshelves. Not sure which is better, the Dayton or Monoprice?

Haven't been much paying attention to the Monoprice subs (other than the Monolith series), altho a couple have been reviewed well IIRC so it would depend on specific model. Might be more a tossup between the better Monoprice vs Dayton SUB1200/1500s. I wouldn't do the Polk, tho....maybe BIC.

 

[Eppie]

Haven't been much paying attention to the Monoprice subs (other than the Monolith series), altho a couple have been reviewed well IIRC so it would depend on specific model. Might be more a tossup between the better Monoprice vs Dayton SUB1200/1500s. I wouldn't do the Polk, tho....maybe BIC.

Then our work here is done.

 

[SilverCBX]

Well, that was quick and responsive, also. I will spend some time checking those options out and, when the HD3s come, take a look at my options. Many thanks for your expertise; I knew there was a light at the end of the tunnel and it wasn't a train.