Help! My Amp Blew Up?!? Power Conditioner?

pwrofgrayskull

pwrofgrayskull

Audioholic Intern
Unboxed this beauty, connected the streamer source, speakers (w/ AudioQuest cables), conditioner (all of which were in use by my previous amp) then enabled the audio turn on function, hit the rear panel power switch and selected my favorite song. Started the volume at zero and slowly raised it to check the audio turn on sensitivity... a split second after the relay “click”... BOOM! Fireworks out the top! Thank god I was controlling the setup remotely and not hovering over the amp!

Parasound Halo A23+ (Manual)
Furman AC-215A (Specs)

Is there any problem using this amp with this power conditioner? (The DAC/Pre and Amp were both connected to the conditioner) I’m convinced something must have happened during shipping or production.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Unboxed this beauty, connected the streamer source, speakers (w/ AudioQuest cables), conditioner (all of which were in use by my previous amp) then enabled the audio turn on function, hit the rear panel power switch and selected my favorite song. Started the volume at zero and slowly raised it to check the audio turn on sensitivity... a split second after the relay “click”... BOOM! Fireworks out the top! Thank god I was controlling the setup remotely and not hovering over the amp!

Parasound Halo A23+ (Manual)
Furman AC-215A (Specs)

Is there any problem using this amp with this power conditioner? (The DAC/Pre and Amp were both connected to the conditioner) I’m convinced something must have happened during shipping or production.
Where did the fireworks come from? The power conditioner or the Parasound?

I have a pretty low opinion of Parasound gear.

I have checked that the Furman can provide 1200 watts and the Parasound draws 800 watts. But I have to ask you what else was connected to the Furman? Have you checked the voltage from the Furman?

I will say that units like those Furman's are really pretty bogus.

The best way to protect gear is with whole house surge protection at the panel. Then power devices like TVs, and anything with sensitive micro processors from a UPS like those from APC.

Typically it is not advised to run power amps from protective devices like UPS and units like the Furman. Because of the huge caps, etc in power amps, they really do not require protection beyond whole house surge protection. The reason being that there power draws are far from constant and vary widely from moment to moment,
 
pwrofgrayskull

pwrofgrayskull

Audioholic Intern
Where did the fireworks come from? The power conditioner or the Parasound?

I have a pretty low opinion of Parasound gear.

I have checked that the Furman can provide 1200 watts and the Parasound draws 800 watts. But I have to ask you what else was connected to the Furman? Have you checked the voltage from the Furman?

I will say that units like those Furman's are really pretty bogus.

The best way to protect gear is with whole house surge protection at the panel. Then power devices like TVs, and anything with sensitive micro processors from a UPS like those from APC.

Typically it is not advised to run power amps from protective devices like UPS and units like the Furman. Because of the huge caps, etc in power amps, they really do not require protection beyond whole house surge protection. The reason being that there power draws are far from constant and vary widely from moment to moment,
It was the amp for sure which makes no sense unless there was a problem with the amp. I’m really just using the conditioner for the DAC/Pre’s sake and for cable management convenience. I haven’t checked any voltages but as I mentioned everything was functioning fine with my previous amp. I can’t see any way the combo should lead to a catastrophic failure without a defect or shipping damage.

Don’t care for parasound? Does that make you a tube guy or a Hypex guy? Is your 150W alternative a PS Audio Stellar S300? Or?
 
Speedskater

Speedskater

Audioholic General
Fireworks, suggests that something came loose inside the amp and shorted out.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
It was the amp for sure which makes no sense unless there was a problem with the amp. I’m really just using the conditioner for the DAC/Pre’s sake and for cable management convenience. I haven’t checked any voltages but as I mentioned everything was functioning fine with my previous amp. I can’t see any way the combo should lead to a catastrophic failure without a defect or shipping damage.

Don’t care for parasound? Does that make you a tube guy or a Hypex guy? Is your 150W alternative a PS Audio Stellar S300? Or?
Neither. I have been a committed solid state guy since 1970. I use Quad amps pretty much exclusively.

My nine Quad power amps in the AV equipment chase.



I made that comment, because I feel we field an excessive number of posts related to Parasound amps, considering their market penetration. So I'm reluctant to recommend them. My advice is to return that amp and go for a full refund and get something else. Even if we accept this might be shipping related, any decently made power amp, should look as if it was hit by a sledge hammer to do what you witnessed. If there is no physical damage to the unit or packaging what happened to you is totally unacceptable. That was a dangerous event and not something that should have happened unless there was such obvious damage you would not accept the unit.

For an incident like that to happen, either the unit was not properly tested, or if there is causation from shipping without obvious damage to the unit or packaging then the unit is of flimsy construction. Either way this is not good. If it were me I would make a complaint to the consumer product safety division.
 
pwrofgrayskull

pwrofgrayskull

Audioholic Intern
Neither. I have been a committed solid state guy since 1970. I use Quad amps pretty much exclusively.

My nine Quad power amps in the AV equipment chase.



I made that comment, because I feel we field an excessive number of posts related to Parasound amps, considering their market penetration. So I'm reluctant to recommend them. My advice is to return that amp and go for a full refund and get something else. Even if we accept this might be shipping related, any decently made power amp, should look as if it was hit by a sledge hammer to do what you witnessed. If there is no physical damage to the unit or packaging what happened to you is totally unacceptable. That was a dangerous event and not something that should have happened unless there was such obvious damage you would not accept the unit.

For an incident like that to happen, either the unit was not properly tested, or if there is causation from shipping without obvious damage to the unit or packaging then the unit is of flimsy construction. Either way this is not good. If it were me I would make a complaint to the consumer product safety division.
What’s the something else? I’m looking for 150W of Class A/B sound (slightly warm) and I only have a 5 inch height slot available (plenty of horizontal). I could run the PS audio S300 or two outlaw audio M2220 monoblocks? I have Outlaws in my home theater setup and was looking for a step above in my 2 channel system. Amp budget is $2.5 - 3k max and that max would need a serious justification beyond the $1.5k price point. From my perspective it’s $3-5k until you see a big step up. Hegel for instance. I’d love the H190 but $$$$
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
What’s the something else? I’m looking for 150W of Class A/B sound (slightly warm) and I only have a 5 inch height slot available (plenty of horizontal). I could run the PS audio S300 or two outlaw audio M2220 monoblocks? I have Outlaws in my home theater setup and was looking for a step above in my 2 channel system. Amp budget is $2.5 - 3k max and that max would need a serious justification beyond the $1.5k price point. From my perspective it’s $3-5k until you see a big step up. Hegel for instance. I’d love the H190 but $$$$
I have been exceptionally pleased with my 2200s. I've heard "better" gear... that doesn't sound any better. I'm holding out hope to get to play around with some NC400 modules soon... that will be the challenge is seeing if I can hear a difference.
But for me, the 2200s have been wonderful driving my mains, center and surrounds, especially when listening to 5-channel audio recordings.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
What’s the something else? I’m looking for 150W of Class A/B sound (slightly warm) and I only have a 5 inch height slot available (plenty of horizontal). I could run the PS audio S300 or two outlaw audio M2220 monoblocks? I have Outlaws in my home theater setup and was looking for a step above in my 2 channel system. Amp budget is $2.5 - 3k max and that max would need a serious justification beyond the $1.5k price point. From my perspective it’s $3-5k until you see a big step up. Hegel for instance. I’d love the H190 but $$$$
First off amps being warm is all audiophoolery. What you want is one that is robust and stable under a variety of loads.

Others here have experience with quite a few amps. I have used Quad current dumping amps for nearly half a century. They sound excellent and are stable reliable amps. I have 13 of them in use in this residence. 10 Quad 909s and three Quad 405-2s
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
What’s the something else? I’m looking for 150W of Class A/B sound (slightly warm) and I only have a 5 inch height slot available (plenty of horizontal). I could run the PS audio S300 or two outlaw audio M2220 monoblocks? I have Outlaws in my home theater setup and was looking for a step above in my 2 channel system. Amp budget is $2.5 - 3k max and that max would need a serious justification beyond the $1.5k price point. From my perspective it’s $3-5k until you see a big step up. Hegel for instance. I’d love the H190 but $$$$
How long was the Parasound in that 5 inch space? How well ventilated is that? I think you're way overthinking the contribution of the amp itself, tho.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
How long was the Parasound in that 5 inch space? How well ventilated is that? I think you're way overthinking the contribution of the amp itself, tho.
Your point is well taken. He may well not have enough air circulation for that amp. However the sparks flew so quickly I doubt overheating was an issue if the OP is telling the truth.
 
pwrofgrayskull

pwrofgrayskull

Audioholic Intern
How long was the Parasound in that 5 inch space? How well ventilated is that? I think you're way overthinking the contribution of the amp itself, tho.
It was never in the space, the failure occurred during initial setup and power up. Poor thing never sang a tune but put on a show
 
pwrofgrayskull

pwrofgrayskull

Audioholic Intern
Your point is well taken. He may well not have enough air circulation for that amp. However the sparks flew so quickly I doubt overheating was an issue if the OP is telling the truth.
“I cannot tell a lie…I did cut it with my hatchet.”
 
pwrofgrayskull

pwrofgrayskull

Audioholic Intern
I have been exceptionally pleased with my 2200s. I've heard "better" gear... that doesn't sound any better. I'm holding out hope to get to play around with some NC400 modules soon... that will be the challenge is seeing if I can hear a difference.
But for me, the 2200s have been wonderful driving my mains, center and surrounds, especially when listening to 5-channel audio recordings.
M2200 All day long! It’s just that I wanted something different for my 2 ch listening space. Parasound seemed like a reasonable choice. PS S300 or NAD C388 were my other options. But... always open to good ideas!

DCBBA24D-6237-4D88-BFCB-6ECC4E9E72AE.jpeg
 
tmurnin

tmurnin

Full Audioholic
Regardless of the Parasound issue, that media center does not look like it allows for much air circulation for the kind of gear you have. Do you have some kind of fan in back? Oherwise I think you are going to shorten the lifespan of some nice equipment
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Regardless of the Parasound issue, that media center does not look like it allows for much air circulation for the kind of gear you have. Do you have some kind of fan in back? Oherwise I think you are going to shorten the lifespan of some nice equipment
Agreed. That is a totally abysmal installation and needs immediate revision on many grounds. That receiver for a start has NO ventilation above it.
 
pwrofgrayskull

pwrofgrayskull

Audioholic Intern
Agreed. That is a totally abysmal installation and needs immediate revision on many grounds. That receiver for a start has NO ventilation above it.
The cabinet is hollow above with thin pice of tempered glass as the “roof” there’s a solid 4 inches of empty air above the receiver and the power amps. I’ve thought about installing a fan nothing in there currently, but this setup doesn’t get hot and I’ve certainly never had anything remotely close to a thermal shutdown. I’m in an apartment and the whole point is to simply have more dynamic sound at lower volume levels.

Keep in mind we all have to live within our means, it’s the media center I’ve had for forever but I’m on the lookout for something better. Besides that, I have children and the gear is in much greater danger if I were to use something like a Solidsteel S3-4 that I lust over.

I’m open to cabinet and fan suggestions however.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
That amp shouldn't run hot unless the speaker load is very low. I have a Parasound A23 and it has never run hot, only barely warm and even then, I didn't have the SPL high for a long time but it has plenty of space above & below and it's on a slotted rack shelf.

WRT Furman, I have installed several of their products and in one case, lightning struck just outside of the house and I heard a loud snap sound in the room where the equipment is located. The system was operating at the time and never had a hiccup. I do agree that whole-house protection is the best first step, but many people are resistant to it because they don't understand the need and that makes it a hard sell. It's different for a DIY-er, who will do what they want.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
With regard to equipment spacing, I know that most companies say 6-8” is required all around.

I recall you earlier mentioning the 2200s. :) Fact is, for the cost, I can’t think of better amps. They work well and do not color the sound as best I can tell, if used within safe parameters.
I have pushed my system hard at times, and have never felt I was clipping along the line.
I use my rig almost exclusively for music. :)

Amps should not effect SQ.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Man, I'm puckering up looking at that Marantz in that cubby. I have a SR6011 and know how hot they can get. Not sure about the Outlaws tho. I know you can stack them like that, but don't know about recommended clearances.

I'd get that Furman out of there. Why even have it to start with?

@TLS Guy is there any way some stray speaker wire on binding posts or a bi amping mistake could cause such sudden and violent reaction? What if something metal got dropped inside like some loose change, chunk of cable or even just a couple of strands from cutting and stripping wire? I'm just throwing guesses out here because something isn't adding up.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Man, I'm puckering up looking at that Marantz in that cubby. I have a SR6011 and know how hot they can get. Not sure about the Outlaws tho. I know you can stack them like that, but don't know about recommended clearances.

I'd get that Furman out of there. Why even have it to start with?

@TLS Guy is there any way some stray speaker wire on binding posts or a bi amping mistake could cause such sudden and violent reaction? What if something metal got dropped inside like some loose change, chunk of cable or even just a couple of strands from cutting and stripping wire? I'm just throwing guesses out here because something isn't adding up.
It is impossible to know what caused it without examining the unit on the bench. If there was a speaker wiring error, then protection should have kicked in. If that failed you would have burn out power transistors and a blown fuse.

A failure like described should never have occurred. That was dramatic and potentially dangerous. Whatever happened was probably in the high voltage section of the power supply.
 
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