New stuff and need help!

[TigerBlood]

So here’s the deal! Just upgraded my home entertainment setup (perfect timing with all the social distancing) to the following stuff!
77inch LG C9
Denon AVR-X3400H
Def Tech BP9060 x2
Def Tech CS9060
Def Tech SR9060 x2

and I have two kilpsh R-12SWs that I’m thinking I’m going to keep.

my question to y’all is how to configure this system with bass management and room correction with 5 subs!
All opinions are welcome and thanks in advance!

 

[Pogre]

So here’s the deal! Just upgraded my home entertainment setup (perfect timing with all the social distancing) to the following stuff!
77inch LG C9
Denon AVR-X3400H
Def Tech BP9060 x2
Def Tech CS9060
Def Tech SR9060 x2

and I have two kilpsh R-12SWs that I’m thinking I’m going to keep.

my question to y’all is how to configure this system with bass management and room correction with 5 subs!
All opinions are welcome and thanks in advance!

What all subwoofers do you have, aside from the R-12s? Or do you have 5 of them?

 

[TigerBlood]

So the BP9060s and CS9060 all have powered woofers with lfe inputs. Plus I have the two dedicated subs

 

[Pogre]

So the BP9060s and CS9060 all have powered woofers with lfe inputs. Plus I have the two dedicated subs

Well... calling those "sub" woofers is a little generous and I'd still want an actual sub in the mix. I'd just run them in stereo and leave LFE to your subs. Run the Audyssey setup routine in your AVR and it will set your distances and levels. It will also probably set your main speakers to "large". I'd switch that to "small", start with a crossover of 80 hz and experiment from there.

I found some measurements of your speakers to illustrate.

The top one is frequency response taken from the front and the second one shows the effect of the bass control. You can see at around 40 hz there starts a steep drop and there's practically nothing below about 30 hz. So even tho they're powered bass sections they can still use some help from a good sub or 2.

 

[TigerBlood]

Well... calling those "sub" woofers is a little generous and I'd still want an actual sub in the mix. I'd just run them in stereo and leave LFE to your subs. Run the Audyssey setup routine in your AVR and it will set your distances and levels. It will also probably set your main speakers to "large". I'd switch that to "small", start with a crossover of 80 hz and experiment from there.

I found some measurements of your speakers to illustrate.

View attachment 34774View attachment 34775

The top one is frequency response taken from the front and the second one shows the effect of the bass control. You can see at around 40 hz there starts a steep drop and there's practically nothing below about 30 hz. So even tho they're powered bass sections they can still use some help from a good sub or 2.

Awesome response!

Where can I find these kind of graphs for my Klipsh Subs?

 

[Pogre]

Awesome response!

Where can I find these kind of graphs for my Klipsh Subs?

Try a Google search. I found those charts in this Home Theater Review.

Definitive Technology BP9060 Floorstanding Speaker Reviewed - HomeTheaterReview

Brent Butterworth explores Definitive Technology's BP9060--a bipolar speaker that features a powered bass section and a creative design to easily integrate Definitive's A90 Atmos module.

hometheaterreview.com

Normally I link sources, I dunno what happened there. Oops...

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Awesome response!

Where can I find these kind of graphs for my Klipsh Subs?

I looked around but couldn’t find any, anywhere. It seems there an earlier version of the 120. I did find the low end FR rated as 29hz. IMO, horrible for an HT subwoofer. I’m not picking on your stuff btw, just sharing my honest opinion.
Your mains roll off at 40hz, and subs roll off at 30hz. You’ll have a ton of midbass, with no real weight. Some soundtracks roll off at 30hz too, but very very many don’t, and to me you’ll be missing out if you don’t upgrade subwoofage. I know. You didn’t ask about new subwoofers, but you did say all opinions and advice welcome. And that’s definitely an area that when properly addressed will absolutely elevate your whole system.
Ain’t that right poges?

 

[Pogre]

I looked around but couldn’t find any, anywhere. It seems there an earlier version of the 120. I did find the low end FR rated as 29hz. IMO, horrible for an HT subwoofer. I’m not picking on your stuff btw, just sharing my honest opinion.
Your mains roll off at 40hz, and subs roll off at 30hz. You’ll have a ton of midbass, with no real weight. Some soundtracks roll off at 30hz too, but very very many don’t, and to me you’ll be missing out if you don’t upgrade subwoofage. I know. You didn’t ask about new subwoofers, but you did say all opinions and advice welcome. And that’s definitely an area that when properly addressed will absolutely elevate your whole system.
Ain’t that right poges?

Yeah, I was tryna think of how ease him into "you need better subs!", lol.

Bill's right. I think a good set of subs can take you to the next level for great sound. Quality subwoofage affects more than you might think it does. Clean bass has a way of elevating the entire system across the board.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Yeah, I was tryna think of how ease him into "you need better subs!", lol.

Bill's right. I think a good set of subs can take you to the next level for great sound. Quality subwoofage affects more than you might think it does. Clean bass has a way of elevating the entire system across the board.

Lol. Yeah, I guess normally we don’t set the hook so fast. Just seemed like the time. He did say all advice welcome!
Should say too, this is possibly one of the worst times to be recommending someone spend money, but if he’s financially comfortable, or whatever it’s a great place to upgrade.

 

[TigerBlood]

Thanks for all the input! I’ll have to wait to upgrade the subs lol. Just dropped a chunk of change on what I’ve got.

Ive had the subs for about 4 years with my old Polk system, when I first started getting into HT. So no offense taken.

The sonic differences between the polks and these def techs is tremendous and I couldn’t be happier with them in my room! Just need a sets of SVS’s lol

in y’alls opinion what would be the best subs to replace the stand alones? I can’t get the monster big ones something the size ofmy current sub or even smaller would be great, but I think you only get the earth shattering bass from the big boys.

 

[2channel lover]

Thanks for all the input! I’ll have to wait to upgrade the subs lol. Just dropped a chunk of change on what I’ve got.

Ive had the subs for about 4 years with my old Polk system, when I first started getting into HT. So no offense taken.

The sonic differences between the polks and these def techs is tremendous and I couldn’t be happier with them in my room! Just need a sets of SVS’s lol

in y’alls opinion what would be the best subs to replace the stand alones? I can’t get the monster big ones something the size ofmy current sub or even smaller would be great, but I think you only get the earth shattering bass from the big boys.

Congrats on your new system!

Subs...deep, accurate uniform bass throughout the seating areas should be your primary objective...then your Def Techs can do a better job of reproducing the midbass, midrange and highs. The listening space is what really should be driving the size of the sub(s), but we know WAF and sheer floor space can be an issue.

My space is 18x16x9...roughly 2600 cu ft and it's open to some larger areas. One large HSU VTF15H MK2 was enough sub, but I would likely always have some dead zones...I ended up with two VTF3 mk5...still a 15" driver, instead of the beast single sub.

If you simply don't have the space for the VTF subs...a sealed HSU 15" will be a smaller box...not ideal for movies, but will be better than your klipsch imo.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

How big is the room?

 

[slipperybidness]

Connect the DTs via the high-level speaker wire connections only, set the L/R to large, the surrounds to small, and likely the center to small.

Run the "real subs" via the LFE.

Don't bother with the LFE inputs on the DTs.