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stasik80

Enthusiast
I am not am not an audiophyte. But I do have a PhD in math and an undergraduate degree in math and physics. I found a set of PSB speakers on craigslist in an estate sale and they're wonderful. Before that I had the sound bar for $50 from Amazon. When I went to pick them up I punctured my palm with a sharp spike which was screwed into the bottom of the speaker. I'm assuming it's for noise isolation. I'm curious if the difference between having those spikes is measurable by a electronic device and by the human ear?
 
HTfreak2004

HTfreak2004

Senior Audioholic
I am not am not an audiophyte. But I do have a PhD in math and an undergraduate degree in math and physics. I found a set of PSB speakers on craigslist in an estate sale and they're wonderful. Before that I had the sound bar for $50 from Amazon. When I went to pick them up I punctured my palm with a sharp spike which was screwed into the bottom of the speaker. I'm assuming it's for noise isolation. I'm curious if the difference between having those spikes is measurable by a electronic device and by the human ear?
The spikes are actually for carpet to give the speaker enclosure grip so the enclosure doesn’t tip as easily. Metal spikes are not great for vibration cancellation since metal is a good conductor for sound.

There isn’t anything you can measure from the spikes since the spikes are not capable of any sound production of there own. If you hear any rattles it will usually result from the spikes being loose in the speaker enclosure or from the floor receiving vibration from the speaker vibrations through the spikes. The spikes will not make any measurable noise!
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
I would add it is more a consideration of isolation. The idea is that by minimizing surface ares contact, you are minimizing the transference of vibration.
Just as an example. ;) There are many articles out there on isolation, decoupling, coupling, etc...
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
No, your forum description isn't "audiophyte" at this time, it's "enthusiast" :)
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
I would add it is more a consideration of isolation. The idea is that by minimizing surface ares contact, you are minimizing the transference of vibration.
Just as an example. ;) There are many articles out there on isolation, decoupling, coupling, etc...
On carpet: the carpet itself is absorbent. Putting on spikes would only help send vibration to the floor. The purpose, therefore, is to stabilize the speaker.

There *could* be an argument on a hard floor about a lack of feet encouraging rattle [the speaker moving and striking the floor over and over generating noise). But in that case, the correct path is rubber feet, not spikes.
 
S

stasik80

Enthusiast
The speakers were standing on hardwood flooring.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Hey stasik, welcome to the forums! I like your phrasing of the question and background. I have a feeling you'll fit right in here if you decide to stick around. There are a lot of myths in this hobby and it can be difficult to navigate for a newbie. I like that this site takes an objective look at things and values science and measurements that correlate with subjective impressions.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
On carpet: the carpet itself is absorbent. Putting on spikes would only help send vibration to the floor. The purpose, therefore, is to stabilize the speaker.

There *could* be an argument on a hard floor about a lack of feet encouraging rattle [the speaker moving and striking the floor over and over generating noise). But in that case, the correct path is rubber feet, not spikes.
A lot of what’s been written seems to be counterintuitive, to me anyway.
Do three or four tiny points couple or decouple? Obviously, coupling is great for stability but not isolation.
I’m of the opinion that combining the two is better. Coupling a vibration damping platform to the floor and then using some sort of anti-vibration pad or rubber feet between the platform and speaker (or whatever gear one is worried about).
I did this with my subwoofers and the bass cabinets of my speakers. On my suspended wood floor that acts more like a trampoline, I was able to greatly cut back on the vibrations being passed by the subwoofers to the floor. Yes, the sonic energy will still rattle things, but compared to before (installing this two-part strategy), the sympathetic vibrations being physically transmitted are greatly reduced.

Is it necessary in most cases? No. I don’t think it is. But some... like my spongy, poorly trussed floors... yes. ;)
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
A lot of what’s been written seems to be counterintuitive, to me anyway.
Do three or four tiny points couple or decouple? Obviously, coupling is great for stability but not isolation.
On carpet they couple... because carpet decouples.

On hard floor it's more complex at a theoretic level, but on a practical level, they couple.

I’m of the opinion that combining the two is better. Coupling a vibration damping platform to the floor and then using some sort of anti-vibration pad or rubber feet between the platform and speaker (or whatever gear one is worried about).
If the energy is present at the speaker cabinet, and you don't want it to get to the floor, you must use something to absorb rather than transfer.

Though in most cases, I doubt it matters sonically.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Though in most cases, I doubt it matters sonically.
I agree.

With strong Bass content, the sympathetic vibrations are effectively distortion. If you eliminate/minimize that physical transferrance, does the speaker/sub sound better? Or can you just hear it... better? :p

On carpet they couple... because carpet decouples.

On hard floor it's more complex at a theoretic level, but on a practical level, they couple.
If only I were nerd enough to have the equipment to test and measure this. :) That would be fun.

:cool:
 
John Parks

John Parks

Audioholic Samurai
If you wish to keep the spikes, get some metal discs that will protect your floor:


Now, for the important questions no one asked: Which PSB speakers did you get? And where are the pictures??
I've created a Magical Metal DiscTM solution to protect hardwood floors! After years of research and countless DDX (Double Deaf Testing) sessions, I have concluded that a compound of 97.5% Zinc.2.5% Copper is the most effective at eliminating aire born vibrations and odors. My manufacturing facilities are up and running and I am prepared to sell the new and improved Miracle DiscsTM for the low price of $14.99EA or $79.99 for a set of 4! I only sell Internet Direct so I can pass the savings on to you!

1575993021996.png
 
Darenwh

Darenwh

Audioholic
A set of coasters to put under cups would work just as well as metal discs. Think about it, do you want something that is vibrating to sit on sharp points on your hardwood floors? Vibrating points with weight pushing down equals scratched wood. Even a set of heavy paper coasters from a restaurant will be enough to protect the wood finish.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Was it just one spike on that speaker? I can't imagine using spikes on bare floors....rubber works so much better.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
A set of coasters to put under cups would work just as well as metal discs. Think about it, do you want something that is vibrating to sit on sharp points on your hardwood floors? Vibrating points with weight pushing down equals scratched wood. Even a set of heavy paper coasters from a restaurant will be enough to protect the wood finish.
The spikes I've seen are sharp; weaponizible. (I think I just made that word up!) A Soft Coaster won't protect your floor. Your standard bar coaster , even a 1/4 cork or rubber coaster would be shredded.
The discs, many with a soft pad underneath to help protect your wood floor, are designed to keep the spikes in place, and off your delicate floor. :)
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
I've recommended the Diversitech product for isolation on many occasions. Good call!

I have heard the rubber can mark/discolor wood: I cannot verify, though.

Also... somebody once asked about using that as a base for a spike. No go. Those guys are only rated up to 50PSI for them to be effective. Pretty sure a speaker spike will far excede that rating. ;) I don't think I would want one of those spikes pressing against me with only 20# applied to the other end!
 
Truthslayer

Truthslayer

Full Audioholic
I've recommended the Diversitech product for isolation on many occasions. Good call!

I have heard the rubber can mark/discolor wood: I cannot verify, though.

Also... somebody once asked about using that as a base for a spike. No go. Those guys are only rated up to 50PSI for them to be effective. Pretty sure a speaker spike will far excede that rating. ;) I don't think I would want one of those spikes pressing against me with only 20# applied to the other end!
As far as marking the floor or speaker goes. I suppose it would be possible. However I have never seen this happen nor have I ever heard anyone having this issue. But anything is possible. However I wouldn't worry about it.

And your right on the spike issue. Would be a little silly to use a spike in conjunction with the pads. But removing the spikes and just using the pads work out rather nicely. And very inexpensive.
 

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