There are no jumpers in place as the Bi-amp set up has separate cables to each pair of posts (Instructions were to remove them in such a set up)
Anyway, lot to absorb here and perhaps I may have been sold a "bill of goods" by the tech. And I sure did spend some $$$.
I suppose people buy tube amps for a reason (other than nostolgia!) but maybe not.
Any way to make best use of the amps with a new speaker set up or something. Also, is there a guide to the physics of all these specs? I'd like to really understand the significance of crossover levels and impedance. A forum or book anyone can recommend ?
As I suspected you got bamboozled by a dealer. Unfortunately the dealer probably believed all the nonsense he spouted at you.
Those speakers have to go, they are no good for any decent system and potentially lethal to amps.
The tube amps are a difficult issue. Unfortunately those amps are not very good as tube amps go. They have enormous amounts of distortion even when not pushed. They generate a totally unacceptable amount of harmonic content.
Really they need a speaker with 8 ohm impedance and a very flat impedance curve. About the only speaker that will do that is a full ranger without crossover. The 1.08 ohm output impedance of those tube amps is a huge problem when it comes to speaker selection.
Next point is, you do not need two of those amps. Passive biamping is not going to help you. It does not make more power available for one thing, as all of the power is required on the bottom end largely.
Now modern properly designed speakers have what is known as baffle step compensation. This is the point where a speakers transitions from being a monopole to an omnipole. That means going from a half space to a full space radiator. If a speaker lacks this it has a very thin lack of bass character. The frequency at which this occurs is higher the narrower the front baffle. The only way to make a passive speaker do this is to have it draw more power below this transition frequency by dropping the impedance at this point so that the appropriate 6db or so boost below the transition frequency can be applied. This does not fit well with tube amps because of their high output resistance as a group. As I said all tube amps are adverse to high current demands, and won't provide it.
The above is why the profile of speakers has changed since the hey day of tube amps. In days passed the fronts of speakers were much wider. The more modern narrow front baffle speaker have better dispersion characteristics as they have less diffraction (scatter with highs and nulls of output) in their frequency response.
So to use those amps with a "modern" concept speaker would really need a custom design. To use both amps would require active biamping and not passive. That means designing a two way speaker or at least a three way hybrid, with electronic crossover ahead of the power amps inserted between your pre amp and the power amp.
This would be a lot of work and effort. I will be honest and state that from what is have seen of those amps they are not worth that effort.
So if you keep those amps you are looking at specialist exotic speakers again.
The speakers that most come to mind here are
Lowther horn loaded full rangers. Lowther are the worlds oldest high fidelity loudspeaker company by far, going back pre WW II.
Common Sense Audio in MO have handled Lowther's US interest for 50 years or more.
My final thoughts are though that you are likely a music lover and not a "techie". Please correct me if I am wrong. You, I feel want a good plug, play and go solution. If you hang onto any of the rig you have now, that is not going to happen. If my assessment is correct then my honest advice to you is to liquidate what you have.
Then we can talk budget and design for something more suitable for your needs.