Final 7.2.4 setup - Need some clarity.

[Divyam]

Hi all, I am planning to build a dedicated HT with a 5.2.4 setup. My room size is 21 ft x 15 ft x 9 ft. I will use the room for movies, music and games (33% each)

I was thinking of finalizing the products as below for a 7.2.4 setup:

I just wanted to do a sanity check before placing the order. Do let me know if all the components are good.

1) Projector - JVC DLA-NX7

2) Screen - Elite 4K Perforated Screen - SE150WH11-A4k fixed frame 150inch diagonal 16:9

3) Receiver - Anthem MRX 1120

4) Subwoofers - SVS PB 3000 (2 subwoofers)

5) Speakers L/C/R - Procella P6

6) Speakers Surrounds (Four) - Procella P5

7) Speakers Ceiling (for Atmos)(Four) - Paradigm CI HOME H65A Angled In Ceiling Height Speakers

I have the following doubts:

1) The dealer is recommending a Sim2 Domino 4 projector, which he is ready to give for the same price as the JVC. Is that a good option? I have never heard of this brand.

2) For the receiver, if I go for a Marantz 7013 and an Emotiva 2 channel power amp combo, instead of the MRX 1120, I can save around $1,000. But the MRX has Anthem Room Correction which is way better than the Auddessy? Is it worth it?

3) Other option is go for NAD T 777 v3 + 4 channel power amp which will cost me a bit more than the MRX 1120. Now the NAD has Dirac Live which is even better than Anthem Room Correction, I have heard. Is it worth it?

4) For Woofers, will a comparable XTZ be better than the SVS?

5) For speakers LCR, one option is the Klipsch 8000L THX series. I demoed them and found them to be a bit harsher than the Procella's. Should I reconsider or go for the Procella's, since it is also not a very well known brand to me.

6) Finally for the screen, the dealer is recommending Screen Research 149" Diagonal 16:9 Format Screen (ClearPix 4K AT Fabric) (10mm Bezel),but it is at a whopping cost of $4,000! Is that worth it?

I just wanted a sanity check to understand if all these parts work well together. Any suggestions would be welcome. I am open to other brands also, or any other setup style that would fit a 7.2.4 system.

I am happy to provide any further details if required. Thanks in advance.

 

[shadyJ]

Your equipment list is all good stuff. In my opinion, Procella is a bit expensive, but it should be pretty good. For in-walls, I would look at Triad, Atlantic Technology, and KEF THX as well.

I wouldn't worry too much about room correction. I would take Dirac over Audyssey or ARC, but the results have a lot to do with the way you run the measurements, and a lot of people don't use those systems correctly. I would only use Dirac for a full-range system, but with ARC and Audyssey, I would only use those for bass frequencies. If you can not limit their operation to bass frequencies only, then don't even use them.

For screens, I would be looking at Seymour Screens for the best acoustically transparent screens. The pricing should be reasonable too.

The SVS subs should be pretty good. Regarding XTZ, the XTZ Cinema 3x12 subs are absolute monsters. If you can get a couple of those, they would be much more powerful then the SVS 3000s, but they would also be a lot more expensive- and much larger and heavier.

 

[Leemix]

If you feel klipsch is harsh its probably not the brand for you but check out the other brands shadyJ mention. Speakers are very important to get something you like.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[CB22]

2) For the receiver, if I go for a Marantz 7013 and an Emotiva 2 channel power amp combo, instead of the MRX 1120, I can save around $1,000. But the MRX has Anthem Room Correction which is way better than the Auddessy? Is it worth it?

Unless you’re looking for an all in one AVR I would go for the Marantz and save $1000. From my experience I have found arc to be very good but I turn it off for listening to music. The cool thing about Anthem is that you have a ton different ways to configure each input. Eg you can be playing video games and streaming Spotify at the same time. Between the Marantz in the anthem I doubt you’ll be able to tell any noticeable difference in sound quality so I would save 1000 and get some extra power.

Last thing, with anthem I found the customer service to be very good. I sent them a file of my room correction and they actually made some tweaks to it, sent it back to me, and I uploaded it to the AVR. I thought this was pretty cool and a nice thing to do. Not sure if you’d be able to get the same customer support via Marantz but IDK.

 

[Divyam]

Your equipment list is all good stuff. In my opinion, Procella is a bit expensive, but it should be pretty good. For in-walls, I would look at Triad, Atlantic Technology, and KEF THX as well.

I wouldn't worry too much about room correction. I would take Dirac over Audyssey or ARC, but the results have a lot to do with the way you run the measurements, and a lot of people don't use those systems correctly. I would only use Dirac for a full-range system, but with ARC and Audyssey, I would only use those for bass frequencies. If you can not limit their operation to bass frequencies only, then don't even use them.

For screens, I would be looking at Seymour Screens for the best acoustically transparent screens. The pricing should be reasonable too.

The SVS subs should be pretty good. Regarding XTZ, the XTZ Cinema 3x12 subs are absolute monsters. If you can get a couple of those, they would be much more powerful then the SVS 3000s, but they would also be a lot more expensive- and much larger and heavier.

Alright thanks! I will surely checkout XTZ's

 

[Divyam]

Unless you’re looking for an all in one AVR I would go for the Marantz and save $1000. From my experience I have found arc to be very good but I turn it off for listening to music. The cool thing about Anthem is that you have a ton different ways to configure each input. Eg you can be playing video games and streaming Spotify at the same time. Between the Marantz in the anthem I doubt you’ll be able to tell any noticeable difference in sound quality so I would save 1000 and get some extra power.

Last thing, with anthem I found the customer service to be very good. I sent them a file of my room correction and they actually made some tweaks to it, sent it back to me, and I uploaded it to the AVR. I thought this was pretty cool and a nice thing to do. Not sure if you’d be able to get the same customer support via Marantz but IDK.

Thank you! I can allocate the $1000 to the woofers!

 

[PENG]

Thank you! I can allocate the $1000 to the woofers!

The Marantz SR7013, has very similar audio specs compared to the MRX 1120, but 2 years more up to date and all channels are rated 125 W. The Anthem is rated 140 W for the 5 main channels (S&V bench tests show the SR7011 has about the same output into 8 and 4 ohms).

The Anthem's remaining channels are class D and are rated 60 WPC.

If you think you need (and you may not) an external amplifier, regardless of which AVR you choose you still need the external amp because the two AVR are equal in terms of power output. You can use an online calculator to check if you need more power.

https://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

If saving a few hundred dollars is important to you, check out the Denon AVR-X4500H that is almost identical to the SR7013 electronically speaking. It does not have 7.1 analog inputs that are practically useless anyway for most people nowadays. Marantz added a unity gain buffer stage (HDAM modules) to the preamp output, there is no indication that it improves sound quality, in terms of specs and available bench test result. Other than that, they share the same ICs for the preamps, DACs and power amp section.

By the way, don't listen too much to the dealer reps. I am sure there are knowledgeable ones, but unfortunately not too many.

 

[Divyam]

The Marantz SR7013, has very similar audio specs compared to the MRX 1120, but 2 years more up to date and all channels are rated 125 W. The Anthem is rated 140 W for the 5 main channels (S&V bench tests show the SR7011 has about the same output into 8 and 4 ohms).

The Anthem's remaining channels are class D and are rated 60 WPC.

If you think you need (and you may not) an external amplifier, regardless of which AVR you choose you still need the external amp because the two AVR are equal in terms of power output. You can use an online calculator to check if you need more power.

https://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

If saving a few hundred dollars is important to you, check out the Denon AVR-X4500H that is almost identical to the SR7013 electronically speaking. It does not have 7.1 analog inputs that are practically useless anyway for most people nowadays. Marantz added a unity gain buffer stage (HDAM modules) to the preamp output, there is no indication that it improves sound quality, in terms of specs and available bench test result. Other than that, they share the same ICs for the preamps, DACs and power amp section.

By the way, don't listen too much to the dealer reps. I am sure there are knowledgeable ones, but unfortunately not too many.

Thank you for this. I am thinking of finalizing the SR 7013 + emotiva Xpa3 gen 3 for LCR's

 

[PENG]

Thank you for this. I am thinking of finalizing the SR 7013 + emotiva Xpa3 gen 3 for LCR's

Thank you for this. I am thinking of finalizing the SR 7013 + emotiva Xpa3 gen 3 for LCR's

You will be all set then. Should still put a fan on top of the SR7013 though, for longevity.

 

[Divyam]

You will be all set then. Should still put a fan on top of the SR7013 though, for longevity.

Will do! Thanks

 

[2channel lover]

I assume 21' is the depth of the room and 15' is the width.

If so, you should have plenty of room behind for rear surrounds....in either case, your side surrounds are ideally slightly behind and to the side of the listener. You want to make sure you have a good 6-7' of depth behind your MLP for the rear surrounds, else the side surrounds and rear surrounds might not have enough space for good signal separation.

Angled in ceiling atmos...nice speakers, maybe a little overkill for the task. I went with four 8" economy class Polks with pretty good success. Paradigm is a well respected brand, their inwalls are pretty good, but I'm not sure I would spend the extra money on angled unless you have placement restrictions.

Sounds like the makings of a killer HT space...good luck with it!

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

1) Projector - JVC DLA-NX7

1) The dealer is recommending a Sim2 Domino 4 projector, which he is ready to give for the same price as the JVC. Is that a good option? I have never heard of this brand.

I would go with the JVC.

I have the JVC NX5 and it produces the best picture quality I have ever seen.

MSRP doesn’t always equal quality.

You can search the web and see that when it comes to HT, JVC PJ seems to be the enthusiasts’ choice for a good reason.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

2) For the receiver, if I go for a Marantz 7013 and an Emotiva 2 channel power amp combo, instead of the MRX 1120, I can save around $1,000. But the MRX has Anthem Room Correction which is way better than the Auddessy? Is it worth it?

When it comes to figuring out which auto room correction is the “Best”, the answer is very subjective and equivocal and depends not only ON the room and system, but also the USER.

How confident are you with computers and software?

I ask this because my father-in-law can’t even install a simple software that my little daughter can install in her sleep.

Anthem Room Correction isn’t like Audyssey or YPAO where you just stick in the microphone and hit a button on the remote control.

It requires the use of a separate computer. As you know, not all computers and operating systems are the same. There is a learning curve and how steep that curve is depends on the USER.

And even if you have all that figured out, there is absolutely no guarantee that Anthem Room Correction or any Auto Room Correction is actually any better than no Room Correction at all since it’s subjective.

 

[Divyam]

Thank you everyone! I will keep you posted on the final setup.

 

[BMXTRIX]

I am going to second the JVC recommendation. Sim2 is a pretty boutique brand. They are my preference to most other boutique brands, but they don't stand out anymore. JVC tends to trounce others with their use of LCoS technology and it's a better way to go overall. DLP simply does not have the contrast to stand up to LCoS, and the same chip in that Sim2, is the one that's used in a sub $2,000 Optoma. The .67" DLP pixel shifter. There is no 'high-end' DLP chip that gets past the basic limitations that DLP has been running into.

Once there is a native 4K DLP chip, this discussion may change, but not until contrast ratios and the black floor is improved upon.