Subwoofers stopped working?

[SlashtaCross]

That's what I meant. I checked the amp fuses. What other fuses should I check?

 

[HTfreak2004]

Can you disconnect power from your amp and 12 volt switcher then reconnect power. Hook it back up and see if that changes anything


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[SlashtaCross]

Yeah I unplugged everything and messed with the connections but nothing changed. Every connection is solid. Could the RCA cable be bad? It's brand new but idk

 

[HTfreak2004]

Ok. Your amp line out is for signal from say amp one to amp 2 etc. The line out is like a pre out. It allows you to drive two subs using the same signal from your receiver like a pass through. The advantage is each sub has its own amp fed by the same signal. Like daisy chaining. Did you maybe push a button on the receiver that turns the sub off?


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[SlashtaCross]

I don't think I did. It was running fine and I was messing around in the garage and all of the sudden the bass got wobbly for like 2 seconds and then stopped and then the subs started pusling really slow with no sound. Then I started messing with the switches on the amp and turned the subsonic from off to on and the pulsing stopped but now I can't get any signal through.

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs540bt/denon-avr-s540bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

That's the amp I bought. Would there be some button I could've hit somewhere after the fact that could've messed with something?

 

[HTfreak2004]

Honestly I’m not sure how the receiver sub output to the amp line output gave you any signal to begin with. Output to output shouldn’t work at all! The output side of the amp you are using is the speaker wires going from amp to sub terminals and that’s correct. The low pass crossover is used on your amp if your not using the bass management in your Denon pre amplification for your speakers not subs. The high pass filter is for subwoofer cutoff so they would play frequencies “up to” your setting and then the crossover rolls the power back say 6,12,18,or 24 db per octave. That means that if you use 80 hz as high pass cut off then at 160 hz your subs are receiving less power above the crossover setting. The crossover doesn’t prevent the frequencies it cuts amp power output beyond the setting you choose. Essentially your keeping the power for the signals a sub should play with authority and not burdening them with ones designed for mid range or tweeter drivers. The same works with the low pass crossover protection for midrange and tweeters from heavy frequencies they cannot correctly handle with authority. I don’t know what the sub sonic switch does. Refer to your owners manual or look online for it to increase your understanding of its function. Yes it’s possible that having the RCA cable improperly arranged could damage your gear. The signal has to go into the proper place if it doesn’t it has to return to sender. That sender being your Denon isn’t going to appreciate that. Not sure if your power switching unit is inadequate for your amp but until you have an adapter and hook it up correctly I’m about Euchred!


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[SlashtaCross]

Alright well I've ordered the splitter and I don't have much faith that it'll result differently since I didn't get any signal from just putting one in like you said. I'll probably get another RCA cable as well and pray that's the solution. If not it's probably gonna be an expensive issue. I also have another amp that I'm going to try but I currently don't have any fuses for it.

 

[HTfreak2004]

Amp probably blown


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[SlashtaCross]

Is there a sure fire way to tell whether an amp is blown?

 

[HTfreak2004]

Assuming everything worked the way you were running it then it quit like it did means you lost power or the subs were blown. You only have the amp or the ac to dc switcher for power. If either has blown any fuse it won’t work. Usually fuses blow from a short. Shorts are caused from excessive heat that burns out an internal wire. A bad ground would also blow a fuse. Fuses can be on the unit or in-line on a wire. Car amps that I had had an in-line fuse usually to prevent blowing the amp from over current sent from the Alternator. Your amp would not even be on in that case until the fuse was replaced and current was below the fuse rating. Never use a fuse that exceeds the wire rating or is incapable of the current draw of your amp. I think your ac to dc switching unit was under powering your amp for starters. In a car an alternator is capable of 12v times 60 amps or 1320 watts only. That means you would be able to use about 1056 watts continuous at 80% load per say on the wire. Usually the power wire is like 4 gauge because it’s DC current in a car and it makes you think the power wire is more cool . Hook your receiver directly to the subs speaker wire inputs and play something at low volume just to rule out any blow subs. Then your problem exists between the power supply units or potentially the way the rca was hooked up to begin with and if so be sure to use the mono to stereo wire the next time your ready to go from one sub pre out. Use an ohms/and volts meter to check the amp and the switcher. Better to google that as I’m not well versed on that procedure. If you take out all fuses and they are good and the power units are not damaged or the woofers then you need the correct rca cable other than that I have no other ideas


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[SlashtaCross]

I ran the subs off of the receiver itself and they worked fine. So the subs are still in good shape. If the amp crapped out on me then rather than buying another amp, is there something designed for using my subs in a home stereo system?

 

[SlashtaCross]

I'd like to add I got a fuse for my other amp and hooked it up to the receiver and subs and once again we were back in business with the bass. So i'm guessing my other amp is junk now? It still powers on and the fuses look fine but idk anything about it. Most people seem to be leaning toward me doing away with car amps and power converters and just getting a "plate-amp". Idk what that is but i'll most likely be looking into it.

 

[lovinthehd]

You could get a plate amp like one of these. Or, you could get a rack-style amp (pro type is popular).

 

[SlashtaCross]

You could get a plate amp like one of these. Or, you could get a rack-style amp (pro type is popular).

I'll probably get a rack-style amp then but I don't want to go overboard. Just one that'll comfortably power my setup.

 

[HTfreak2004]

Since everything is used buy used. No sense mixing new and used as the subs don’t have a preference especially if you just want to power them to enjoy your music. You should be able to get a higher powered used amp for cheaper then a new amp with less power!


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[HTfreak2004]

Lovinthehd recommended a great site for your needs. You should consider an amp with 1000 watts for the subs. One of the plate amps was 200.00 for a 1000 watts


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[SlashtaCross]

Lovinthehd recommended a great site for your needs. You should consider an amp with 1000 watts for the subs. One of the plate amps was 200.00 for a 1000 watts


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This may sound dumb but again this is all new territory to me. If I got a plate amp does that mean I have to cut a hole in my box to install it? And if so then that wont affect the way the sub works with the amp being in its airspace?

 

[HTfreak2004]

From what I can see you can use it externally as long as the amp outputs connect to the subs binding post(speaker input).


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[lovinthehd]

This may sound dumb but again this is all new territory to me. If I got a plate amp does that mean I have to cut a hole in my box to install it? And if so then that wont affect the way the sub works with the amp being in its airspace?

Yes, that's the general way one would use a plate amp, with a custom cutout in the box for an airtight fit (not a huge volume consideration but the spec is probably right there on the page with amp description details). Or you could just wire from a plate amp lying around awkwardly, or a rack style amp with your other gear....just what works for you/your sub/budget.

 

[SlashtaCross]

Yes, that's the general way one would use a plate amp, with a custom cutout in the box for an airtight fit (not a huge volume consideration but the spec is probably right there on the page with amp description details). Or you could just wire from a plate amp lying around awkwardly, or a rack style amp with your other gear....just what works for you/your sub/budget.

Do rack style amps run in the same price range as plate amps? I would prefer to no alter the box but I am willing to if the pricing has a large difference.