A bunch of basic questions

[Dunkc]

Hi
Love the site and YT channel.

Just some general questions as I am upgrading my HT to 5.1.2 Atmos with a new Yamaha RX-A1080. I have an old but nice Panasonic TH-P42V20A with HMDI ARC, BR player, Apple TV 4K, Yamaha YST-SW320 and new high speed ARC compatible HDMI cables from a reputable shop.
Q1 Dolby set up schematics show the surround speakers below head height but I read elsewhere that the front and surrounds should be at ear level. What is generally correct?
Q2 I am having trouble using the AVR TV Scene to watch the TV. I have to use the TV remote to manually switch between AV and TV Inputs in order to watch the TV and get audio output from the AVR. The AVR is not communicating with the TV to change the input. Is this expected behaviour?
Probably got more.

Thanks

 

[HTfreak2004]

Tweeter is at ear level. Spl measurements are at tweeter height. Since tweeters add much more direct sound then mid or bass sound waves.

 

[Leemix]

How are things physically connected?

Edit: as in inputs and outputs, whats connected to the avr and whats connected to the tv
Also do you use any of the TV apps or just the appletv etc.?

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[William Lemmerhirt]

Hi
Love the site and YT channel.

Just some general questions as I am upgrading my HT to 5.1.2 Atmos with a new Yamaha RX-A1080. I have an old but nice Panasonic TH-P42V20A with HMDI ARC, BR player, Apple TV 4K, Yamaha YST-SW320 and new high speed ARC compatible HDMI cables from a reputable shop.
Q1 Dolby set up schematics show the surround speakers below head height but I read elsewhere that the front and surrounds should be at ear level. What is generally correct?
Q2 I am having trouble using the AVR TV Scene to watch the TV. I have to use the TV remote to manually switch between AV and TV Inputs in order to watch the TV and get audio output from the AVR. The AVR is not communicating with the TV to change the input. Is this expected behaviour?
Probably got more.

Thanks

Hi,
Might want to read this, just to get a deeper dive.
https://www.dolby.com/us/en/technologies/dolby-atmos/dolby-atmos-home-theater-installation-guidelines.pdf
1) that picture isn’t very specific, and is just to generally illustrate where to place your speakers. It’s a little frustrating that they’re are so many pictures out there that are not very specific, or consistent. the bed layer should be around ear height.

in the above pic, you can see that most dimensions are based off of the height of the main L/R speakers. Let’s say they’re 40” tall. That means according to spec, the surrounds can be up to 40”x1.25 which is 50” high. There are considerations like if you always have a couch full of people, you can mount them a little higher to clear their heads. The thing is to maintain the vertical separation between the bed, and height layers.

2) Usually, all source components would be connected to the AVR with a single connection to the tv from the AVR. Is that how you’re connected? The AVR will not change inputs on the tv, just itself, then the tv acts as a monitor.

 

[Dunkc]

Yes I remember seeing this. But the Home TheaterSpeaker Guides, available on the Dolby website, clearly show the surrounds well below head height? So am I just being picky, or are they not the primary resource on this stuff!

I have my surrounds about 2ft above my head and 5ft either side as there is only about 2ft between the listeners head and the room back wall. This was set up many years ago and based on online recommendations (delocalise the sound) from online commercial sites IIRC. I was going to remount them on the wall in a lower position as one height channel will be installed soon. But am not sure this is best.

Yes, all components connected to the AVR with single HDMI to the TV.

When I am watching the the ATV, the TV has to be in AV input (ATV). When changing the Scene to TV with the AVR remote, the TV display stays on ATV and does not change to TV automatically and I have to manually change the TV input source to TV. Something must be set up wrong on the TV. My old AVR did not have ARC.

 

[Dunkc]

How are things physically connected?

Edit: as in inputs and outputs, whats connected to the avr and whats connected to the tv
Also do you use any of the TV apps or just the appletv etc.?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

All components connected to AVR by HDMI. Only one HDMI connection between AVR and the TV.
I don’t use any of the TV apps. Most have disappeared over the years (YouTube, etc).

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

I have no idea why the illustrations they use show the surrounds below ear height. That makes no sense whatsoever and I wish they didn’t do that because it only makes for confusion. The literature clearly states where to install, so IMO the pictures they use should be reflective.

 

[Leemix]

All components connected to AVR by HDMI. Only one HDMI connection between AVR and the TV.
I don’t use any of the TV apps. Most have disappeared over the years (YouTube, etc).

Then its easy, dont use and turn off ARC. Source input selection is only through the AVR/AVR remote. The tv as mentioned above should stay on the same hdmi input always(the one connected to the AVR).

Edit: is the TV Scene the way you watch tv programes, and is it built into the tv or box connected to the AVR?

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[Dunkc]

Then its easy, dont use and turn off ARC. Source input selection is only through the AVR/AVR remote. The tv as mentioned above should stay on the same hdmi input always(the one connected to the AVR).

Edit: is the TV Scene the way you watch tv programes, and is it built into the tv or box connected to the AVR?

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I was going to do a factory reset of the TV.
Turning off VieraLink (HDMI CEC) on the TV sounds logical. Leave TV input set to TV or HDMI input?
I still use the TVs HDMI ARC port for audio <—> AVR though ?
The TV Scene is the Yamaha AVR one step mode change.

 

[HTfreak2004]

Would you consider using an HDMI hub capable of 4K resolutions if you need that. Connect all your HDMI gear to it then output it to your tv using only one HDMI in. Use the HDMI Arc to your AVR only. Don’t use the AVR as the switcher use the TV as the Central HDMI hub. You may need an external HDMI hub. I gave one for my gear since my projector is approximately 20 feet from my Processor. Only one DVI cable connection from my hub to projector. I don’t know what TV scene is but I bet your tv needs to be the central hub your gear connects to. You can send the Audio to the receiver. You could send 1 HDMI cable from the AVR to the HDMI hub and use your TV scene that way. Everything flows through an external HDMIs to the external hub then hub to Tv then Tv arc out to receiver HDMI audio in. That could solve your 2nd question.

 

[JerryLove]

Yes I remember seeing this. But the Home TheaterSpeaker Guides, available on the Dolby website, clearly show the surrounds well below head height? So am I just being picky, or are they not the primary resource on this stuff!

I think Dolby was lazy in their image.

They did not expressly state that it should be below ear-height, they simply drew it that way. This diagram does not look like it has paid attention to height (notice that the angle to ears is not described).

They are not "the primary resource"; though they are certainly an important one. That said, if asked, I suspect they would state that surround speakers should be at ear height and pointing so the ear is near the center-of-axis.

I have my surrounds about 2ft above my head and 5ft either side as there is only about 2ft between the listeners head and the room back wall. This was set up many years ago and based on online recommendations (delocalise the sound) from online commercial sites IIRC. I was going to remount them on the wall in a lower position as one height channel will be installed soon. But am not sure this is best.

If you are using monopoles: angle them down toward your main listening position (or lower them). There are advantages and disadvantages to both.

 

[Dunkc]

I think Dolby was lazy in their image.

They did not expressly state that it should be below ear-height, they simply drew it that way. This diagram does not look like it has paid attention to height (notice that the angle to ears is not described).

They are not "the primary resource"; though they are certainly an important one. That said, if asked, I suspect they would state that surround speakers should be at ear height and pointing so the ear is near the center-of-axis.


If you are using monopoles: angle them down toward your main listening position (or lower them). There are advantages and disadvantages to both.

The plan was to lower the wall brackets to bring them to the same level as LF and RF so was just checking before creating more holes in the wall! The speakers maybe to close the listeners to the side of the central listening position and create too much of a localised source. Guess I might have to experiment.

 

[Dunkc]

Would you consider using an HDMI hub capable of 4K resolutions if you need that. Connect all your HDMI gear to it then output it to your tv using only one HDMI in. Use the HDMI Arc to your AVR only. Don’t use the AVR as the switcher use the TV as the Central HDMI hub. You may need an external HDMI hub. I gave one for my gear since my projector is approximately 20 feet from my Processor. Only one DVI cable connection from my hub to projector. I don’t know what TV scene is but I bet your tv needs to be the central hub your gear connects to. You can send the Audio to the receiver. You could send 1 HDMI cable from the AVR to the HDMI hub and use your TV scene that way. Everything flows through an external HDMIs to the external hub then hub to Tv then Tv arc out to receiver HDMI audio in. That could solve your 2nd question.

Don’t really want more powered devices but thanks for the idea.
Really want the AVR to control non-TV devices and simply use the TV as a display.
But whole the AVR can change the TV to AV input when ATV is selected, it is not able to change it back to TV when TV viewing is selected on the AVR.
I also need the TV to operate independently of the AVR as it has an attached PVR that needs to stay on when the AVR turns off. The AVR also uses 65W of power when on so it needs to turn off when not in use.

I am not sure I can work this out by trial and error. I’ll have to re-read the AVR manual in case there is some tricky device paring process required.

 

[Leemix]

Turn off CEC(has different names on different makes like viera link you mentioned) and ARC on all devices and connect everything to the AVR. If those are turned off everywhere nothing should turn on or off automatic or any AVR source changes unless you do it. Dont forget to turn off CEC on the ATV.
PVRs i think never really turn off unless power not connected, they need a very active standby to record things so only the video output parts are powered down when in «sleep» mode.(at least thats the way with every PVR ive seen.
Do you use a TV button thats a source select on the AVR remote?


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[Dunkc]

“Do you use a TV button thats a source select on the AVR remote?”

The Yamaha remote has source select buttons but they call them SCENES. Each scene has a load of setting and TV is one of tge presets as well as Movies, STB, etc

 

[Leemix]

“Do you use a TV button thats a source select on the AVR remote?”

The Yamaha remote has source select buttons but they call them SCENES. Each scene has a load of setting and TV is one of tge presets as well as Movies, STB, etc

Im not that familiar with yamaha but the tv source button might be linked to ARC and cause problems so might be good to use mostly the other source connections, at least if you are having problems with ARC.


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