Need some advice regarding an external volume control...

J

JCanada

Audioholic
I have a YAMAHA R-N301 hooked up to my computer via optical cable. I cannot control the volume from the computer, I can only control the volume from the amplifier, the computer volume is disabled when you hook it up to an amplifier. The amplifier is out of my reach when I am at the computer. I am tired of always having to pick up the amp remote to adjust the volume. ( I increase and lower the volume frequently). Can anyone suggest a separate after market external volume control, passive volume control type device, etc.. that I can connect to my setup, so that I can have next to me, and easily access it for volume adjustment? (Please do not suggest the EMOTIVA Control Freak), it does not work. My bookshelf speakers are passive, and the Control Freak only works on powered speakers. Again, any and all advice is appreciated.
 
Irvrobinson

Irvrobinson

Audioholic Spartan
What computer do you have? Which OS is it running? Which output on the computer are you using?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
What computer do you have? Which OS is it running? Which output on the computer are you using?
Agree there is something missing here. It would be most unusual not to be able to control the volume from the computer.
 
Irvrobinson

Irvrobinson

Audioholic Spartan
Agree there is something missing here. It would be most unusual not to be able to control the volume from the computer.
I think at the very least he could use the headphone jack with a stereo mini plug to RCA-pair cable, but I would like to hear the facts before I recommend that.
 
J

JCanada

Audioholic
What computer do you have? Which OS is it running? Which output on the computer are you using?
Using a 2008 iMAC OS X El Capitaine. From the iMAC, the headphone out to the optical in of the amp. I am using a mini toslink to male toslink.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Using a 2008 iMAC OS X El Capitaine. From the iMAC, the headphone out to the optical in of the amp. I am using a mini toslink to male toslink.
Buy an AppleTV Gen 3- you should be able to find one fairly cheap on ebay, Kijiji or something like that. Assuming you're using iTunes, it would allow you to then use AirPlay to stream the music to the AppleTV AND control the level. If you have an iPhone and/or iPod/iPad, it would allow you to load the music onto them and stream to the AppleTV, control the level and carry the device with you, so you don't need to go to the computer to change tracks or control the level of the music. You could still use the optical input, too.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Using a 2008 iMAC OS X El Capitaine. From the iMAC, the headphone out to the optical in of the amp. I am using a mini toslink to male toslink.
If you want to control volume from the iMac you should use the analog input on the R-N301. As irv mentioned in post#4, you need a 3.5mm jack to rca (stereo) cable. The newer iMac models would switch the output to analog automatically but I am not 100% sure about the 2008 iMac. If not, take a look of the settings to see if there is something you have to do.
 
J

JCanada

Audioholic
Buy an AppleTV Gen 3- you should be able to find one fairly cheap on ebay, Kijiji or something like that. Assuming you're using iTunes, it would allow you to then use AirPlay to stream the music to the AppleTV AND control the level. If you have an iPhone and/or iPod/iPad, it would allow you to load the music onto them and stream to the AppleTV, control the level and carry the device with you, so you don't need to go to the computer to change tracks or control the level of the music. You could still use the optical input, too.

I appreciate your suggestion, but I do not listen to iTunes, or use Apple Airplay. I do not use an iPod, iPad, or apple iPhone. I do not stream on my phone either. The computer is the source component. I use my computer to stream SIRIUS/XM to my amp while I am working on my computer. The computer speakers are terrible. Thats why i use the bookshelf speakers connected to the amp. I was hoping someone can direct me as to how to connect an EMOTIVA "Control Freak" type device, or similar volume control to my setup. Again though, thanks. Your suggestions are appreciated.
 
J

JCanada

Audioholic
If you want to control volume from the iMac you should use the analog input on the R-N301. As irv mentioned in post#4, you need a 3.5mm jack to rca (stereo) cable. The newer iMac models would switch the output to analog automatically but I am not 100% sure about the 2008 iMac. If not, take a look of the settings to see if there is something you have to do.

Thank you. I was hoping to use the optical cable from the computer out to the amp to have the amp do the D to A conversion. I heard that is better sounding than having the iMac do the D to A conversion. When I plug in the Toslink cable from the computer to the amp, the computer tells me I can no longer control the volume from the computer, and to use the amp volume control. Again, thanks.
 
Irvrobinson

Irvrobinson

Audioholic Spartan
Thank you. I was hoping to use the optical cable from the computer out to the amp to have the amp do the D to A conversion. I heard that is better sounding than having the iMac do the D to A conversion. When I plug in the Toslink cable from the computer to the amp, the computer tells me I can no longer control the volume from the computer, and to use the amp volume control. Again, thanks.
I see what you're doing, and it won't work. You must use an analog output to have the computer control the volume level.
 
Johnny2Bad

Johnny2Bad

Audioholic Chief
If you want to control volume from the iMac you should use the analog input on the R-N301. As irv mentioned in post#4, you need a 3.5mm jack to rca (stereo) cable. The newer iMac models would switch the output to analog automatically but I am not 100% sure about the 2008 iMac. If not, take a look of the settings to see if there is something you have to do.
All the Macintosh laptops and desktops that use the combined analog/optical input & output connectors will switch automatically. When there are multiple audio out options (eg you have an optical cable and an HDMI cable connected, or an analog cable and a USB DAC, etc) you use the Audio Midi Setup App found in the Utilities folder to choose the desired output (and if applicable, volume and sample rate / bit rate).

Although it seems popular to diss the various model Macintosh's AD/DA converters (Cirrus Logic 24/96 and 24/192 ADCs),they are not as bad as some make them out to be. Many reasonable cost external DACs simply benefit from putting some space between the noisy computer environment and their chipsets, rather than any inherent superiority to Apple's digital audio BoM),and despite the "massive differences" some claim, few people can hear the difference in my experience (although some are much better than chance, it takes a trained listener to discern the differences).

Put another way, a lot of people say they don't like the built-in ADCs simply because they are told that's what some "authority" proposes. And I've heard external DACs I didn't like as well as the one in either my Mac Mini or the Macbook Pro. And then there is the not insignificant number of people just hate everything Apple, period, and that's been around for 25 years and in some cases 35 years.

I'm reminded of the double-blind DAC shootout held at the 2017 Rocky Mountain Audio Fest (RMAF) where experienced listeners chose from ten options*. One comment " ... There were differences, but what stood out was how similar they all sounded. Who worries about this stuff? ..."

I suggest you try the analog out, upsample your content to 24/96** via the Audio Midi app and see what you think. You may surprise yourself.

* Actually, four options per listener, chosen at random from 10 possible candidates. Even with the limited number of DACs it took six hours per listener to run the DBT,

^^ Or 24/192 if your model supports it. Purists would suggest 24/88.2 and 24/176.4. Do some listening and see what you think, not what someone else tells you to "believe". Your ears are the only ones that matter.
 
Last edited:
J

JCanada

Audioholic
All the Macintosh laptops and desktops that use the combined analog/optical input & output connectors will switch automatically. When there are multiple audio out options (eg you have an optical cable and an HDMI cable connected, or an analog cable and a USB DAC, etc) you use the Audio Midi Setup App found in the Utilities folder to choose the desired output (and if applicable, volume and sample rate / bit rate).

Although it seems popular to diss the various model Macintosh's AD/DA converters (Cirrus Logic 24/96 and 24/192 ADCs),they are not as bad as some make them out to be. Many reasonable cost external DACs simply benefit from putting some space between the noisy computer environment and their chipsets, rather than any inherent superiority to Apple's digital audio BoM),and despite the "massive differences" some claim, few people can hear the difference in my experience (although some are much better than chance, it takes a trained listener to discern the differences).

Put another way, a lot of people say they don't like the built-in ADCs simply because they are told that's what some "authority" proposes. And I've heard external DACs I didn't like as well as the one in either my Mac Mini or the Macbook Pro. And then there is the not insignificant number of people just hate everything Apple, period, and that's been around for 25 years and in some cases 35 years.

I'm reminded of the double-blind DAC shootout held at the 2017 Rocky Mountain Audio Fest (RMAF) where experienced listeners chose from ten options*. One comment " ... There were differences, but what stood out was how similar they all sounded. Who worries about this stuff? ..."

I suggest you try the analog out, upsample your content to 24/96** via the Audio Midi app and see what you think. You may surprise yourself.

* Actually, four options per listener, chosen at random from 10 possible candidates. Even with the limited number of DACs it took six hours per listener to run the DBT,

^^ Or 24/192 if your model supports it. Purists would suggest 24/88.2 and 24/176.4. Do some listening and see what you think, not what someone else tells you to "believe". Your ears are the only ones that matter.

Thank you, much appreciated.
 
J

JCanada

Audioholic
All the Macintosh laptops and desktops that use the combined analog/optical input & output connectors will switch automatically. When there are multiple audio out options (eg you have an optical cable and an HDMI cable connected, or an analog cable and a USB DAC, etc) you use the Audio Midi Setup App found in the Utilities folder to choose the desired output (and if applicable, volume and sample rate / bit rate).

Although it seems popular to diss the various model Macintosh's AD/DA converters (Cirrus Logic 24/96 and 24/192 ADCs),they are not as bad as some make them out to be. Many reasonable cost external DACs simply benefit from putting some space between the noisy computer environment and their chipsets, rather than any inherent superiority to Apple's digital audio BoM),and despite the "massive differences" some claim, few people can hear the difference in my experience (although some are much better than chance, it takes a trained listener to discern the differences).

Put another way, a lot of people say they don't like the built-in ADCs simply because they are told that's what some "authority" proposes. And I've heard external DACs I didn't like as well as the one in either my Mac Mini or the Macbook Pro. And then there is the not insignificant number of people just hate everything Apple, period, and that's been around for 25 years and in some cases 35 years.

I'm reminded of the double-blind DAC shootout held at the 2017 Rocky Mountain Audio Fest (RMAF) where experienced listeners chose from ten options*. One comment " ... There were differences, but what stood out was how similar they all sounded. Who worries about this stuff? ..."

I suggest you try the analog out, upsample your content to 24/96** via the Audio Midi app and see what you think. You may surprise yourself.

* Actually, four options per listener, chosen at random from 10 possible candidates. Even with the limited number of DACs it took six hours per listener to run the DBT,

^^ Or 24/192 if your model supports it. Purists would suggest 24/88.2 and 24/176.4. Do some listening and see what you think, not what someone else tells you to "believe". Your ears are the only ones that matter.

Thank you, much appreciated.
 
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